Clinician
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Post by thumper812 on Jun 8, 2012 1:04:29 GMT -6
Wondering where you hook the inlet and outlet hose to .I notice that on the case it has two( look like) brass inserts near the oil pump wonder if thats what u tap into and also can you change pump gears to pump more oil ( more teeth )? I'm in the process of building a 62mm with a +8.2mm stroke crank and gonna need to cool her down a bit. wish i had researched a little more before ordering the kit off ebay.
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Post by Bashan on Jun 8, 2012 3:06:42 GMT -6
Here is where they hook up on a QML161:
I'm not sure if that applies to your engine or not. If you could post some pics it would help. I've got my QMJ157 case apart right now and could help you figure out your oil channels. Rich
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2012 11:55:44 GMT -6
Wondering where you hook the inlet and outlet hose to .I notice that on the case it has two( look like) brass inserts near the oil pump wonder if thats what u tap into and also can you change pump gears to pump more oil ( more teeth )? I'm in the process of building a 62mm with a +8.2mm stroke crank and gonna need to cool her down a bit. wish i had researched a little more before ordering the kit off ebay. Did you guy that kit from GY6RACINGTEAM?? If so you need to do a few things before you install it or you will destroy the piston and everything |
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Clinician
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Post by thumper812 on Jun 9, 2012 13:26:01 GMT -6
Yes thats where i purchased it i done run it for about 10 min and shut it off tore t apart and piston was cracke d on the piston lands so far aint fond no more damage i check clearance and every thing seemed to be right no evidence of it hitting head i have purchaced a new piston and rings its made by hoca the skirts are a little longer on new piston i aint had time to really check it out closer. just got finished strectching it and lowering. i will post some pixs later this afternoon its a baja sc 150. been a mech about 20 years but the gy6 is new to me done built a few stock ones but never this extensive any help would be appresiated
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2012 14:02:50 GMT -6
Those kits that GY6RACINGTEAM sells they are good but the guy does not disclose the fact that even with the cylinder having that built in spacer that you still need to either add another spacer or shave the piston even more. requires you to also grind down parts of the oil crankcase near the oil pump and towards the back. I have had a few people contact me after buying and installing that kit that they tore apart the engine and he has gotten some negative feedback for it. even if you have no evidence of it hitting the valve head remember metal expands with its hot.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2012 14:03:29 GMT -6
BTW where did you get those fittings for the oil cooler crankcase?
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Post by bullet on Jun 9, 2012 14:07:30 GMT -6
I have two 2005 E-Ton GY6 150cc ATVs that came stock with an oil cooler and thats where they hook up.
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Post by Bashan on Jun 10, 2012 16:08:28 GMT -6
I may have some information for you regarding those plugs in your case. I have two plugs on my 1P57QMJ case as well, one on the front and one underneath:
Here's the path of the oil through the oil pump. The intake is underneath through the rear of the pump, and out the front to a channel that supplies the crank bearing and top end. The green arrow in this photo points to the plug on the output side:
Here the red arrows point to the plugs and the green arrows to the oil flow:
Now the problem would be, at least on this engine, the plugs run to separate ports beside the two already connecting to the pump. If you simply drilled those plugs out and tapped into them you'd still have the pump pushing through the original channels and I doubt much would go through the cooler. If you tapped just the output side you'd starve the crank bearing and top end. Rich
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Post by jonglauser on Jun 11, 2012 14:00:47 GMT -6
Thank you for chasing this around! I'm quite interested in adding an oil cooler to my engine. Agreed that you can't just use the existing plugs. They are there for manufacturing to drill oil passages. You could use the one on the oil output, but you'd have to have something to insert into the case to block flow and then drill/tap a new hole after the block to feed pressurized+cooled oil up to the head.
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Post by jonglauser on Jun 11, 2012 15:18:48 GMT -6
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Post by Bashan on Jun 12, 2012 10:59:11 GMT -6
I'm kinda stalled on my GY6 project waiting for parts so I'm going OCD on this oil cooler thing. I got a few more pics that will explain what that guy on the buggy site did. The case plug on the output side is right next to the output port for the pump. So you wouldn't have to drill the plug out, you could go into the passage if you were careful with both drilled ports. You'd have to put a barrier plug in the passage like the guy on the buggy site did:
The barrier plug would have to be this shape and recessed back to the passage wall....good luck with that:
Then your input back into the system would have to be at the edge of the case:
I guess it's doable but you'd be dealing with some thin aluminum. Maybe they make some kind of sleeve or expandable fitting that could go in there. Also, I think you'd be putting a lot of stress on that little pump. If you've ever looked at the guts on one they're not all the confidence inspiring. Rich
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Post by sprocket on Jun 12, 2012 20:30:37 GMT -6
PRETTY thin...
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Post by jonglauser on Jun 13, 2012 10:26:44 GMT -6
I was wondering about using some kind of putty like JB weld to fill in the port. But JB weld is only good to 500*F. As for the return port fitting, I suppose you could braze a brass/bronze/aluminum bung to the case? I've got nothing to say about the pump. Anyone ever test one for pressure/flow?
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Post by Bashan on Jun 13, 2012 12:42:54 GMT -6
I had some JB Weld crumble on me in the oil sump from a fitting. However, the pieces caught in the filter screen and there was no damage. I'm not sure if was the heat or the oil that got to it. I've had cooling fins JB Welded to a GY6 cylinder and head for a year and they're still solid....go figure. Those oil coolers that fit right into the screen hole rely on the stock pump and seem to do OK. I still wouldn't trust it though, I'd rather use an electric pump on any cooler and leave the OEM system alone. Rich
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Post by Bashan on Jun 15, 2012 3:51:30 GMT -6
JB weld is only good to 500*F.
Sprocket's comment about the aluminum being thin prompted me to do a little measuring while I have this case apart. I was considering doing an NPT tap for a fitting just in case I wanted to do something later. I scrapped that idea.
Here's the thickness on the threads for the left oil plug, I did't measure it but it's probably an inch worth of threads:
Compare that to the thickness on the case....pretty thin:
I wouldn't trust that holding a fitting. Remember, it's not just the pressure, it has to hold a brass fitting securing in the aluminum against the forces of the oil line tugging, pulling, and vibrating. Now, here's the thickness on the outside of the output passage:
I SURE wouldn't trust that! What I've decided to do if I eventually hook up a cooler again is to use the M12 NPT brass adapter I bought from Summit Racing in the left oil drain plug hole for an intake to an electric pump. Then, the output would drain into the valve cover, something Sprocket and I have discussed in the past. You've got these openings at the bottom of the cam chain tunnel to get oil back in the system:
I just don't see a problem with that. Thoughts? Rich |
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