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Post by ridecheap on Oct 27, 2012 13:37:17 GMT -6
I tested my battery today and its not getting enough Volts. It just keeps dying when I charge it up a few days later.
My battery tested with multimeter:
Just sitting there: 12.2 Volts -
Turning the Key: 11.6 Volts -
Turning the engine and reeving it: 11.8 to 11.9 Volts
The battery is a Super Sport Oreilly Auto Parts GTX9BS Battery.
Installed it a few months ago.
Super Start® Power Sports - Power Sports Battery
Part Number: GTX9BS
Line: SSB
3 Month Free Replacement
UPC: 83996016910
12 Volt
Dry With Fill Pack
Cold Cranking Amps: 120
10 Amp Hour Rate: 8
Length: 5-7/8 Inch
Width: 3-7/16 Inch
Height: 4-3/16 Inch
Detailed Description
10 Amp Hour Rate (Ah): 8Ah
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 120 CCA
Height (In): 4-3/16 Inch
Length (In): 6 Inch
Voltage (V): 12 Volt
Width (In): 3-7/16 Inch
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Post by Alleyoop on Oct 27, 2012 15:05:37 GMT -6
Sorry to hear that, you got a bad battery, if it has a warranty and it is only a couple months old contact the seller for a replacement.
Alleyoop
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 27, 2012 16:42:29 GMT -6
Sorry to hear that, you got a bad battery, if it has a warranty and it is only a couple months old contact the seller for a replacement. Alleyoop Im starting to think its the regulator. The volts are not jumping too high when I am giving it gas. It should be in the 13 teens battery bad or not? I gave it some good gas a second time and the battery stayed the same at the 11.6 no jumps when reving it. I have the regulator in my view and was testing the red line green line and yellow line with a multimeter. It sparked and I blew a fuse. I blew the orange 02 fuse. The fuse was by the regulator. There is the red, green, and yellow line to the regulator and the 3 yellow lines to the regulator. |
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Post by Alleyoop on Oct 27, 2012 17:42:59 GMT -6
I tested my battery today and its not getting enough Volts. It just keeps dying when I charge it up a few days later. My battery tested with multimeter: Just sitting there: 12.2 Volts - Turning the Key: 11.6 Volts - Turning the engine and reeving it: 11.8 to 11.9 Volts Sorry but look at what it tested at just sitting there, you have a bad battery. The battery will not take a charge. Alleyoop |
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Post by Cruiser on Oct 27, 2012 22:08:53 GMT -6
Have to agree with Alley. You have to start with a known good battery with at least 12.7 volts when charged. Only then can you check to see how good the charging system is. It is a possibility that your system did kill the battery, but you have to start troubleshooting only when you have a good battery installed.
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 28, 2012 11:01:15 GMT -6
Here is my regulator tested: Any ideas if its working its strange to get the .1 in the yellow plug.  |
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 28, 2012 12:37:05 GMT -6
Possible Stator Test I did dont know if its right:
I tested the top plug in the picture with the three yellow wires. I tested it with the key turned and it came out as 3.40 on the multimeter set at A...- over it at 20m. I could not start the scooter with this top plug un plugged.
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 28, 2012 13:00:29 GMT -6
Ok I put the charger on the battery and was able to start it with the regulator top plug in the picture with the yellow wires disconnected.
I got from the plug to the stator top left 7.0 A-... the middle large area went up to 14 then down to 1.5 stable. The top right came out flat line 0.
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Post by Alleyoop on Oct 28, 2012 13:23:15 GMT -6
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 28, 2012 17:01:57 GMT -6
I figured out what AC is on the multimeter.
I tested the the regulator plug to the stator.
There is three prongs in the plug. The top right and left prongs are putting out 0. The bottom prong is putting out 15 then reving the engine up to 20 on the multimeter in AC. It seems the stator is working fine.
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 28, 2012 17:03:45 GMT -6
I know what DC is now on the multimeter. All the volts tested in the picture above was DC.
I am grounding the black multimeter testing wire to the bike frame while testing the volts with the red multimeter wire.
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Post by Bashan on Oct 28, 2012 19:03:42 GMT -6
The three yellow wires are the AC feeds for the regulator/rectifier. They should test out about 70v AC with some RPMs. If one of them reads very low or nothing then the stator is toast. I test them in series and you can read how I do it right here. I know some folks disagree with me on my testing method but I've found it works well.
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 29, 2012 10:03:09 GMT -6
I am getting a new battery as of today much stronger based on CCA and AH. I will test the stator with the old battery and new battery and post the results today later in the day.
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 29, 2012 10:24:13 GMT -6
So here is the old battery results:
Posting Battery:
Installed it a few months ago.
O Reilly Auto Parts Super Start® Power Sports - Power Sports Battery
Part Number: GTX9BS
10 Amp Hour Rate (Ah): 8Ah
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 120 CCA
Voltage (V): 12 Volt
The Stator Results for the old battery:
Inside the three wire prong to the stator I tested while running:
Bottom wire with Right wire: .2 AC
Bottom Wire with left wire: 20.-40. AC
left wire with right wire: .1 AC
Results: This does not look good you said it should test the same with all wires any combination. I am thinking it is the stator?
New Battery results coming later today.
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 29, 2012 11:22:03 GMT -6
It seems the bottom wire is the only one putting out a good 20 AC when revving engine. Here is a diagram of a stator working in Flash: www.wisc-online.com/objects/ViewObject.aspx?ID=IAU11808So if 20AC is being put out and then when I test the regulator hooked up its giving me 5.4 DC volts out could it be the regulator? One wire is giving me .1 DC volts out refer to the picture above I posted. |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
