OMP Regulator Rectifier Upgrade  By  damin69 (Read 12,983 times)

OK here we go. Lets start by saying to do this install should take less than an hour. I was able to take the back off install take pictures, Start up, Warm up bike till fan comes on and take readings and put back together in an Hour.

at time of doing these test I did not run any of my other cooling fans this is all bone stock. I wanted scooter to warm up quicker to kick in the fan. I will be taking scooter to work tomorrow. I will be running at 5000 rpm and holding 55-58 mph both ways to work. Round trip is 110 miles. It is always cool in the am so I have never had any problems starting scooter right after work. So the big test will be tomorrow after work. Suppose to be about 81 degrees and humid tomorrow so the run home at 5000 rpm the main fan should be on most of the time. So if I still have Both headlights and can still start the scooter after I get home That will be a good sign. Since I have not wired in the perm volt meter yet I will be going out and makeing a wire to plug into my batt Tender plug so I can use my DMM and keep an eye on the voltages tomorrow and will post my results after I get home.

When I get the CDI/Coil from Tom I will install my perm volt meter also.

Ok so on to the pictures and Results.

One thing I did notice with new RR. My idle was higher than normal when warm I had to adjust it down a bit as it was turning the clutch.

Voltage readings taken at battery.
This was voltage prior to starting scooter.

Voltage Right After I started scooter.

This was my Voltage IDLE before I turned it down. was Idleing about 2300 rpm

Voltage at 4500 rpm

Voltage With scooter Warm Main Cooling fan on.

Voltage at IDLE after Idle adjusted to 1700 rpm. Warm Fan running.


Here are some of the install pictures.

Interesting results, Todd. It looks like the R/R has the ability to put out a good charging voltage, but that drop with the fan on would indicate excessive loss in the circuits feeding the fan and maybe other parts of the scoot. Maybe it's at the stator connector like you said. Assuming that this is an upgrade to the OEM R/R, then we are looking at excessive losses in the circuits. Are you still running the 3 amp fan? I see you still have the blocking diode. I gained .7 volts by using a relay to eliminate the diode. It would be interesting to see the voltage reading right at the output plug on the R/R and compare it to the reading on the battery. I originally was getting a 1.5 volt drop with the original wires and blocking diode. My OEM R/R was putting out well over 14 volts and the battery was discharging. I don't see a cooling problem as the charging system should be able to handle the cooling fan running 100% of the time as necessary to keep the engine from overheating. It would be nice if the cooling fan never came on, but our unmodded systems will work hard to keep things cool. I personally don't mind as long as the scoot doesn't overheat and the charging system can handle the extra load. In any case, there should never be an instance where the battery discharges when normal electrical loads are encountered.

JR, I agree 100%. Keeping the fan OFF is going to be key. Yes it is going to be a hot one. and that drop does worry me a bit. And the fact that the fan came on quite a bit this am. Well Is kinda my fault also. Remeber my last modd of the 2 120mm fans well they sit directly infront of an already blocked radiator. And for Testing purposes I am not running any of my extra cooling fans right now. So I expect that is not helping the air flow on keeping my scoot cool. If I can run hard going home tonight and still be able to start my scooter. I call this a HUGE sucess. This is only first day so will keep testing. I will have another day that I test with the added fans. if I do not see much diff I may remove them fans all together.

I have a 18HP lawn mower that I do not use. If I can get the local small engine guy to trade me one of them little radiators like you showed in that other thread I will give him that for the radiator. Then I can add that to my system also.

But so far I am happy with the results. 200% better than my previous charging attempts.

There is a lot of room in back of and in front of the stock radiator. It would be interesting to piggyback another identical radiator maybe in front of the original.

Yea, that's the fuel tank. I believe it holds 3.2 gallons.

Todd, I hooked up the relay trigger to an ignition key switched wire. The relay requires very little power to trigger it so any key controlled source would be fine. I happened to have an extra connector located near the horn that I used for the hookup. The headlights will come on every time you turn on the key with this setup. I have my lights switching on and off by use of the hi/lo beam switch. I find that properly aimed HID's provide plenty of light and I don't really miss the hi beam function. Aiming the right headlight a little higher than the left gives a nice light dispersion.

;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Ok I am doing the HAPPY DANCE.. Ok Finally have the WINNING combination.

Ok results today. Drove in to work this am running Hwy speeds all the way. 5000-5200 rpms. 57-60 mph. Fan came on about half way to work. Even with Fan on voltage was Steady all the way to work at 12.7 volts. .. Ok this was a positive but not the end of test as it was only 67 degrees this am. Big test is Ride home this after noon. 88 degrees with Heat index around 96. Plus I was bucking a head wind all the way. Ok Final Results 12.68 volts when I get home. I had Both headlights and I was able to Shutoff scooter and Start it.... Now this is a HUGE FIRST.......... I have never been able to do that since I bought my Scooter..


Ok on to the Break down of the Winning Combo

1. 7" Cooling Fan www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=15&products_id=1024&osCsid=2bf68d71e32fe413cbb745cbd96ddb55

2. Regulator Rectifier 100% Worth Every Penny. The very bottom one (VRRPM3H) And he will put the plugs on that match the Stock Jonway plugs. (Tony is the Man) This is the KEY to the whole charging having a Regulator that will take what is thrown at it and hold voltage when it is warm. THIS IS THE ONE.
www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html

3. 40 amp Relay. I dont have a link right now but this is a standard Relay used for running lights. Was like 4 bucks at O'Reily Autoparts.
(Used to Replace that Damn Diode)

4. Lighting upgrades to reduce Current draw. LEDs Replaced all bulbs except for instrument panel lights. (Tail/Brake, Signals and Runner lights above the headlights).

5. HID Upgrade. Stock bulbs are 35 watt and if you drive at night are not worth a crap with them you have very limited visibility. HID are about 5 times as bright as Halogen but only draw 35 Watts of power. So it was an even Trade off. But if you want to run at night This is an upgrade that is Needed the only other Alternative is to put in Halogen bulbs bright enough to run at night yes. But they also Draw 55/60 Watts each. So you end up drawing more current on a system that Already Stock can not even handle the Stock lighting. IMO HID are the best way to go. If you are in a state that you can not legally go HID. Then maybe consider modifying your lights with Halogen One side aimed with a good Low Beam bulb and the other side Aimed with a good High Beam bulb. Then you are actually cutting back on over all current draw from 70 Watts (35x2) to 55 watts Low 60 Watts High.

I think just the above would probably take care of most of the charging problems. I did go one step further and Will probably upgrade the wires that are running my Fan Circuit also.

6. Replaced wiring in the CHARGING CIRCUIT area of the wire harness with 12 guage wire.