Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 1, 2014 20:00:34 GMT -6
The R/R that came with my scoot is stamped "XFT1B01B 110220". Does FLP denote something like floating ground?
No, I haven't gotten a response from John. I filled out the form on the "contact" page of nycscooterparts.com. Is that the right way to get ahold of him, or should I have used the aol email address listed on the contact page?
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by tvnacman on Jul 2, 2014 4:53:13 GMT -6
The R/R that came with my scoot is stamped "XFT1B01B 110220". Does FLP denote something like floating ground? No, I haven't gotten a response from John. I filled out the form on the "contact" page of nycscooterparts.com. Is that the right way to get ahold of him, or should I have used the aol email address listed on the contact page? Check your spam from tvnacman@aol.com My response was you should call . John |
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Post by glavey on Jul 2, 2014 7:50:20 GMT -6
Ok, found it.
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Post by Bashan on Jul 2, 2014 14:09:13 GMT -6
FLP R/R's are strange animals. If yours was originally a FLP you would need to get another one. It looks like it wasn't so don't worry about it. John will point you in the right direction. It's not a floating ground R/R. Rich
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 2, 2014 14:46:29 GMT -6
I got the flywheel puller today, it worked like a charm. I'm glad I read somewhere you should lightly hit the end with a hammer once inner bolt is tight against the crankshaft. Less than a minute and it was off. Should I use locktite on the bolts that hold the stator and/or the nut for the flywheel? Here's a few pics of the stator, not that it matters much.    It looks like the trigger magnet on the flywheel was slightly hitting the pickup at one time, but I can fit a few pieces of paper between them now so I don't think it is happening anymore.   I'll try and talk to john tomorrow. |
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Post by Bashan on Jul 2, 2014 17:59:00 GMT -6
Ah the two magneto stator!! Interesting. Those two wrapped up coils power the red/black that runs to the CDI to power the spark. Why they feel they need two coils I do not know. That will not affect the charging or lighting circuits, it simply powers the AC feed port on the CDI. The R/R handles the white and yellow wires of course but the two magneto coils is rather unusual. Most stators have one magneto coil for the CDI and the rest are for the white and yellow wires. The stator looks good, no burn marks or melts. I put mine back on with an impact.....don't kill it, just pop it a few times. Or get a strap holder and torque it but I just hit it a bit with an 3/8 impact. I don't use Loctite on that bolt and have never had one come loose.
Talk to John about the R/R. I've already discussed it with him. Rich
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 2, 2014 18:50:20 GMT -6
If I ever do have to replace my stator, will I have to buy one with two wrapped coils or will one suffice?
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Post by Bashan on Jul 2, 2014 19:19:19 GMT -6
One will do. Many guys have used regular one coil magneto stators instead of the two variety because they couldn't find the two....and they worked just fine. I wonder if it's not a Chinese marketing thing. A CDI just does not need that kind of energy to generate an impulse to the coil. I would think you'd need the flywheel for the one magneto stator though. Rich
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Post by Bashan on Jul 3, 2014 8:47:32 GMT -6
John and I are trying to figure out what is the correct R/R for you. Do you have a wiring diagram and I would like a couple pix of your old R/R. If you have the owner manual there should be a diagram at the back. I may need you to run a couple of multimeter tests on your old R/R to make sure we're on the right track. And yes, I do know the original R/R is bad but you can still get some meter identifying values with a multi. Do either of these look familiar? They are from the tao Tao site:
Rich
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Post by tvnacman on Jul 3, 2014 9:10:37 GMT -6
I would like to see the regulator with the hsrness plugged in so I can an see the position of each wire .
John
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Post by Bashan on Jul 3, 2014 12:00:38 GMT -6
Glavey, if you will PM me your mailing address I'm going to mail you some R/R's. I have a whole box of them from when John and I were doing some experiments. One of them has to work and then we will know which one is your R/R. You can keep them, I have plenty. Rich
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Post by tvnacman on Jul 3, 2014 12:49:07 GMT -6
Rich , this is being worked out . After a conversation we are juggling some load around . This should square this up .
John
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Post by Bashan on Jul 3, 2014 13:23:01 GMT -6
OK, that's fine, whatever everybody is comfortable with. I just want the guy's system straightened out. Rich
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Post by glavey on Jul 3, 2014 18:24:04 GMT -6
Ok, I think John and I have this sorted out. Now, I am no where near as knowledgeable as John is, but I do build/troubleshoot/repair computers and screw around with arduinos, so I will try my best to explain what the problem and final solution was. If I make a mistake somewhere or say something that is plainly wrong I apologize and hope that either Rich or John will correct me.
I need to (and should have) state that I have LED tail lights, an aftermarket headlight housing for h3 bulbs with a 55w bulb in it and a switch that completely turns off the headlight.
The main problem was that with the LED tail lights were drawing much fewer watts and thus a lower load than what the original incandescent tail lights were. This was causing the charging voltage to be much higher than it should have been.
With John's help I load balanced the charging and lighting system. In the end the working setup was a few small-ish incandescent lights hooked up in addition to the LED tail lights, and the headlight temporarily replaced with a few bulbs I had laying around daisy-chained to make a 35w load similar to what the stock headlight would draw. Voltage at the battery with the makeshift headlight on was 14.7v DC. Right on the money.
John asked me to replace the headlight with a 35w one to confirm that solved the problem. I didn't have a 35w h3, only 55w ones. I shopped around at all the department stores and radioshack but none of them carry 35w h3's. Tomorrow I will look at all the automotive stores like advance auto/autozone/carquest/oreilly's/local family owned car shops. If they don't have them I'll just order them from ebay. I promise I will update this thread when I get the 35w bulb.
It seems from this experience that these scooters and their stators and R/R's are meant for a very specific load to be put on them to achieve the correct battery charging voltage. I thought they were more like a pc power supply; adjust the output to match the demand and keep the voltage at a certain level.
Anyway, THANK YOU EVERYONE!!! You have saved me from buying more regulators, stators, wiring harnesses and what ever else I might have thought was wrong.
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Post by Bashan on Jul 3, 2014 18:34:05 GMT -6
I'm so very glad for you. I've said before I think in some cases LEDs cause problems because the system is designed for certain loads. You have a plus balance with John whenever you choose to use it. It is my way of atoning for whatever parts you may have bought that turned out to be not needed. Rich
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