Clinician
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Post by sky120 on Jul 7, 2014 19:57:40 GMT -6
Ok so I picked up this scooter this weekend.. After a carb clean and tune its running great! However... Put the volt meter on the batt while running to watch the voltage. 12.5 at idle, rev it to 3k and I watch as the voltage falls?? Has anyone had this happen? I'm just going through it and doing a through pdi as its new to me and working out any kinks..
Darren
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Post by Bashan on Jul 7, 2014 20:09:51 GMT -6
Pull your stator three yellow plug. Set your multi to AC up to 100v. Test each leg of the stator with the bike running and some RPM. Test two yellows, then two yellows, etc until all combinations are tested. 70 to 90 v AC is normal. Check continuity between the yellows and ground, you shouldn't have any. Check between the yellows, you should have it. If all of that is good your stator is OK and you need an R/R. I suspect it's your R/R because they fall off with a voltage threshold they can't handle. However, a stator can arc at a certain voltage and fall off too, just not as likely.
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Clinician
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Post by sky120 on Jul 7, 2014 20:51:16 GMT -6
Thank you!! Yup ot the R/R.. Stator tested perfect. Off to buy a new R/R..
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by tvnacman on Jul 9, 2014 9:43:31 GMT -6
Slow down , check the voltage on the red wine on the regulator . There maybe a blocking diode between the red from the regulator and the battery . If it is opened it will not charge. Is your cooling fan running ?
John
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Post by Bashan on Jul 9, 2014 17:55:08 GMT -6
The B does have a diode. I based my recommendations on the fact that his voltage starts out OK and then falls off with some RPM. Usually a diode will fail open, it would be like a switch turned off with no voltage at all. Those are my thoughts, I could be wrong. Rich
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Clinician
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Post by sky120 on Jul 10, 2014 11:27:26 GMT -6
Yes there is a diode but from reading another thread I jumpered the two wires going to it to rule it out and still had the same results with the voltage dropping.
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Clinician
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Post by sky120 on Jul 10, 2014 14:12:32 GMT -6
Cooling fan works fine
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Post by Bashan on Jul 10, 2014 14:31:03 GMT -6
Hey John....  I'm really 12 years old.
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Clinician
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Post by sky120 on Jul 16, 2014 21:06:59 GMT -6
I'm back.. replaced the R/R with a new one and get 13v at the battery and it falls as rpms increase. I'm going to replace the blocking diode with a relay and see if that changes anything. Other than this it runs great and have been having a blast on it! One thing I noticed tonight i found strange. If I hit the brakes the headlights get a little brighter, if the cooling fan comes on it has the same effect. Almost like a extra load is pulling more juice out of the system, if that makes sense.. any clues on this?
Darren
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Post by Bashan on Jul 16, 2014 21:16:10 GMT -6
What are the wires to your R/R? Hey how old is your battery?
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Clinician
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Post by sky120 on Jul 16, 2014 21:29:09 GMT -6
Yellow wires to the R/R all read 30v AC at idle. Not sure on the batteries age...
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 16, 2014 22:59:29 GMT -6
This is from RICH our fearless leader:
Alleyoop
1: Unplug your stator pigtail.
2: Set your multi to AC voltage (up to 100v AC if not an auto ranger) and ground one probe IN THE STATOR GREEN CONNECTOR OF THE PIGTAIL. Do not ground it to the frame to avoid interference. Put the other probe in white wire and start the engine. Give it some RPM and you may get up to 60v AC or even a little more. Down to 40 would be acceptable.
3: Same procedure for the yellow wire, it should be a little less. If the voltages aren't within these ranges your stator is bad. Plug the stator back in.
4: If the stator voltages are good start on the R/R. Leave the R/R PLUGGED IN. Set your multi to AC low volts, no more than 50. Ground one probe to the R/R green to avoid interference. Test the yellow wire, you should get 10 to 13 v AC depending on RPM and what lights are on.
5: Test the white wire the same way, up to 15v AC is acceptable, less than 12 suspect.
6: Test the battery terminals set at DC with some RPM, 13 to 14.75v DC is acceptable. Anything outside of the above parameters is a bad R/R.
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Post by Bashan on Jul 17, 2014 6:13:12 GMT -6
Well the voltages on the stator are low although at idle is inconclusive. If I had known that I wouldn't have told you to get an R/R. But the stator test should be done with some RPM as I described and then the voltages 70 to 90. When you said the stator tested perfect I assumed you got the values I described. I'm sorry for the confusion and your possibly un-needed purchase. To properly test the stator please follow my first post on this thread.
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Clinician
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Post by sky120 on Jul 17, 2014 15:45:16 GMT -6
I think I solved the problem. Was going over it again today using my trusty Harbor freight meter because i didn't have a battery for my Fluke meter i would have normally used. On a whim I opened up the HF meter and put the 9V that was in it in the fluke... 14.5v at the batt, WTH? put the battery back in the HF meter it reads 13v at the batt... do I feel stupid... as each component was testing OK. I'm still curious tho as what could be causing the head lights to get brighter when the brake is pulled or the fan turns on. The battery in the scoot is the one that was in it when i bought it so i don't know its history.
Alleyoop, Where abouts in IL are you at if you don't mind me asking? I'm just north of Rockford.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 17, 2014 16:04:02 GMT -6
I am down by OAKBROOK your way up there bud.
As for the lights getting brighter when you pull the breaks that is a BAD GROUND.
Alleyoop
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I'm really 12 years old.
..BAD TO THE BONE..