Clinician
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Post by scootec on Feb 27, 2015 18:16:59 GMT -6
Replaced my 8 pole stator with an 8 pole stator and the bike started and ran but blew the headlights instantly. Put a dvom in the headlight harness and saw 6 volts at idle and up to 20+ volts at 3000 rpm. The battery was seeing 12.6 at idle and up to 14.5 at high revs but then I drove it around and it was hard to restart after so I checked the battery voltage again and now it is at 11.0 while running, rev up a bit and the numbers on the volt meter start dancing. So I'm assuming I need a new regulator? But why would I need one when I have not modified anything? The bike was running fine for a month before the stator went out. And why is this thing such a piece of crap? I just replaced the spark plug, ignition coil, cdi, stator and pickup, headlights (because the new- stock replacement- stator blew them out) and the bike was charging but now is not charging and I need a new voltage regulator also? ...
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by adamhoyer on Feb 27, 2015 19:46:13 GMT -6
Change back to your old stock stator and tell me what happens. I tried to replace my stator with an 8 pole and it was the same color and everything, it started to heat up light bulbs red hot and make my battery go well over 15.6v on idle. After I went back to the stock stator that I had I originally took off and replaced the light bulbs everything was fine.
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Clinician
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Post by scootec on Feb 27, 2015 20:28:13 GMT -6
The stock stator was blown that's why I changed it. But I didn't upgrade from a 6 pole. It already had an 8 pole. I just replaced it with another 8 pole stator. The lights blew instantly but the battery was charging properly. But now its not charging at all. Does anyone know how many volts ac the stator yellow wire should produce? I get 10 during cranking and 60 with the engine running. I don't want to put a new regulator on the bike if 60 Vac is just gonna blow it.
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Post by Bashan on Feb 28, 2015 18:58:07 GMT -6
Here is the Scooter Doc GY6 manual. You will find a complete description of how the stator works and how to test it.
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Clinician
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Post by scootec on Feb 28, 2015 19:16:25 GMT -6
If I test the white or yellow wire to battery ground it does what it should- 16 Vac a little above idle. If I test the white or yellow wire to the green wire at the regulator plug (disconnected) I get 2 Vac. So you think, bad ground right? Nope the red wire to green wire at the regulator plug shows the exact same battery voltage as measuring it on the battery terminals. W.t.f
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Clinician
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Post by scootec on Feb 28, 2015 19:21:47 GMT -6
The green ground wire at the regulator plug reads no resistance to the battery ground with the key off. With the key on it reads 10 ohms. With the scooter running it reads 9 Vac. From a ground wire to battery ground...
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2015 20:08:37 GMT -6
TEST IT THIS WAY: To test the output of the stator set your multi to AC and find a good ground for the black probe such as the engine or frame. Unhook the white wire from the regulator and put the red probe into the connector on the white wire. Start your engine and give it some RPMs. You should get something like this: Reconnect the white and unhook the yellow. Test it in the same fashion: The white provides the charging current and the yellow does the AC lights like the headlights. If your voltages are somewhat different don't panic, there's a lot a variation from one stator to another. However, they should be close. If your voltages are significantly less on either wire then your stator is toast. If your stator voltages are OK then hook all the wires back up to the R/R and start the bike. Now touch your red probe to any exposed spot on the yellow wire. It doesn't matter where, the whole wire is regulated. You should get close to 12v AC. Then do the same to the white wire and you should get 12v AC again. If you don't then the R/R is bad. Although the blue/white andred/black wires don't have anything to do with our discussion on charging, you can test them in the same manner: [/b]
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Clinician
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Post by scootec on Feb 28, 2015 20:55:43 GMT -6
That's exactly how I did it. I got different readings depending on where i grounded it so then I would check the resistance between that spot of ground and the negative battery terminal and maybe 1 ohm. Then I was getting more resistance to ground with the key on and some ac voltage in the ground circuit at idle. But basically my multimeter's (two of them) showed 1-4 Vac at the yellow wire and jumping from 6-40 Vac at the white wire. Somewhere along the way I just hooked stuff up and found out that the scooter works properly. Lights and charge. But if you hit it with a multimeter it shows totally off or wrong numbers.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2015 21:07:01 GMT -6
Well you have TWO main GROUND WIRES and you should make sure they are good and the wires are not fraid or partially broken. Then you have ALL GREEN WIRES from the stator and or CDI etc.. 1. From Negative battery terminal to a NICE CLEAN DOWN TO SHINY METAL ON THE FRAME. 2. From One of the VALVE COVER BOLTS to the same place as number 1. Those are you main grounds and if one is not making good ground problems will arise. Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by scootec on Feb 28, 2015 23:10:28 GMT -6
Yea I have a cable between the neg post and valve cover then a wire coming off the valve cover going I to harness and another wire from valve cover to frame. I think a lot of the issues were coming from shorts in the harness behind the glovr box. I noticed my headlights flicker if I moved the harness and took all that electrical tape off to find a load of wires with groups of 2 up to 6 soldered together and wrapped with electrical tape craptily. And all at the same spot on the harness. So I re wrapped all of them and things appear to be right now. Finally.
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Post by cyborg on Feb 28, 2015 23:35:55 GMT -6
Great!!!!
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