. By rosiemoto (Read 11,183 times)

[rosiemoto]

Okay continuing from my oil thread, trying to keep everything in one place for less confusion!

I got the new spark plug in. Here's what happened: The bike would fire up, give one puff of air, then die... nothing new for me really; sometimes it just needs a little gas for the first second or 2. It hasn't needed that lately so I kept trying without gas. After 3 times of "start, puff, dead," the starter kept locking up like it used to (I'll explain the sound it makes below). After like 10 tries of that, it finally unstuck, and I gave it a little gas to help it stay running and from there everything has been fine so far. I did a test ride, everything was flawless. But why was it so hard to start the first time, is that normal after a spark plug change?

Or possibly my battery is just dying or too weak and small? (4 amp hour battery)... the battery was sounding half dead after all this.

Without any sound samples I'll try to explain the sound the starter makes when it "locks up"... just imagine if you had a tool to lock the starter gear and hit the button to start it... it would move a couple centimeters but then is stuck... then let go of the button and it moves back a couple cm. That's exactly what it seems like happens. I'll get a video sample of this some day when it happens again.

[Alleyoop]

Are you sure the plug is in nice and snug, sounds like maybe it is leaking around the plug which would cause very hard startings until with all the explosions going on it got hot enough to expand the metal a little and stop most of the compression loss.

4 AMP BATTERY!! the min you should get for the scoots is a 7AMP and with over 100 CCA ratings. Otherwise they do not have enough power to turn the motor over for starting. They have the cheaper batteries 7-9 AMP but the CCA's on those are less than 100 that is why they are so cheap.
One with less that 100 you may get 2 good spins on the motor before their power is depleted.
Alleyoop

[rosiemoto]

Oct 30, 2015 12:15:18 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

Are you sure the plug is in nice and snug, sounds like maybe it is leaking around the plug which would cause very hard startings until with all the explosions going on it got hot enough to expand the metal a little and stop most of the compression loss.

Okay, just went out to re-tighten it to discover I didn't put the cap (called ignition coil?) on tight because it pulled right off. I tried tightening the spark plug, it already felt snug, so I put the cap back on hopefully a little better and started it cold. I feel now that I should've loosened the spark plug and re-tighten it to reseal it...?

So after basically only re-putting the cap back on just now, the first two starts it gave 4 puffs and died. The third start I gave it a little gas (~2k rpm) for 1 second and it idled fine. Definitely improvement but not sure if it's right.

Do I need to worry about how hard I push the cap in? It gave a click going in, so I thought it was done (rollingwrench's video said make sure it clicks). The first time I ever went in there it was VERY hard to pull the cap out, but it's nothing like that now. Am I just being too gentle?

[mike932]

Yes, try pushing the spark plug cap in more.

Also see how well the spark plug works after kickstarting.

Take a photo of your battery including the model number so we can recommend a new one.

[rosiemoto]

Oct 30, 2015 20:25:06 GMT -6 mike932 said:

Take a photo of your battery including the model number so we can recommend a new one.

Will do. I'll also get you the picture you wanted of the tires too. I wish I had the original battery to show! This one I got about 2 years ago to replace it, and it's like half the size almost; you can hear it clunking around in there when I hit big bumps.

Yes, try pushing the spark plug cap in more.

Alrighty, I'll just redo the whole thing and give it some muscle this time.

Also see how well the spark plug works after kickstarting.

Ohh interesting... I'll try that and let you know what happens.

[mike932]

Oct 30, 2015 20:38:04 GMT -6 rosiemoto said:

 I wish I had the original battery to show! This one I got about 2 years ago to replace it, and it's like half the size almost; you can hear it clunking around in there when I hit big bumps.

Not good. You want a battery that fits perfectly and with more amps.  Who recommended the small battery to you?

[rosiemoto]

Oct 30, 2015 20:39:12 GMT -6 mike932 said:

Not good. You want a battery that fits perfectly and with more amps.  Who recommended the small battery to you?

Trying to remember... it was most likely the shop I bought my bike from. I remember going to Walmart and they didn't have a match.

[mike932]

Try to measure the battery compartment so we can figure out which battery to recommend. Measure length, width, and depth. And show us photo of the battery wires.

I am guessing this battery will fit, but I am not sure yet....

www.ebay.com/itm/FirstPower-FPM7-12B-for-Yuasa-YUAM32X7A-YTX7A-BS-BATTERY-/291589228591?hash=item43e412882f:g:-S8AAOSw14xWHWSS&rmvSB=true

[mike932]

This video shows a new battery, and in the comments, the scooter owners mentions he has a Future Champion VIP scooter.....

[rosiemoto]

Those look like my original battery. I've got the VIP as well. I'll get you the battery compartment measurements soon as I can. Got my to-do list ready!

[trashtruck12172]

I've heard that you should always connect the positive ) side of the battery first as batteries produce hydrogen gas and there is a risk of explosion. I don't know if this still holds true for the new "sealed" batteries.

[mike932]

Always connect positive first to prevent accidental shorting.

When disconnecting battery, always remove negative first.

When jump starting, connect black jumper from good battery's negative terminal to dead scooter's engine block instead of dead battery's negative terminal.  This prevent sparks near the battery.  All batteries including sealed batteries produce hydrogen gas when charging.

Rosiemoto, you will need a trickle charger for your new battery....

www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BM3B-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B0051D3MP6/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

[rosiemoto]

My battery compartment seems to be: 6" width, 4" height , 3.5" length (front to back) The height was measured from bottom to top where the cover is, so it might be slightly smaller. Here's some pictures:

[mike932]

Good. The battery I recommended to you has these dimensions:
L: 5.94”
W: 3.42”
H: 3.74”

So it should fit perfectly.

The one I recommend has 7 amps but does not mention cold cranking amps. I would buy it if I were you, but Alleyoop might recommend a different battery.

Plus, you live in Florida, so you will need fewer cold cranking amps than people in other states.

Also notice that that your small battery has the red wire on the right. The new battery will need the red wire on the left, and it looks like your red wire will have enough slack to do so.

The battery I recommended claims to be fully charged, so you may not need to trickle charge it.  

www.ebay.com/itm/FirstPower-FPM7-12B-for-Yuasa-YUAM32X7A-YTX7A-BS-BATTERY-/291589228591?hash=item43e412882f:g:-S8AAOSw14xWHWSS&rmvSB=true&rmvSB=true

[rosiemoto]

Thank you, I'll order it when my battery gets worse. It's still working for now.

I redid the spark plug entirely and made sure to get it all tight. Everything seems good there.

Just waiting on my belt to arrive now!

My tire hasn't lost any air for like over 2 weeks now. I will do the Windex next time it goes flat. Will put up pictures when i get home.