. By rosiemoto (Read 11,195 times)

[rosiemoto]

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[Alleyoop]

0-40 @ 100% throttle: 6000-6500rpm... after 40mph, the variator stops variating, and RPM starts climbing quickly and feels like I'm locked in a gear that revs too high.

Was that Highway 1 in Florida?

That is perfect, that is the way it should work, the belt will climb as high as it can with the weights that are in there and that happens around 40mph at 6000-7000 rpms. Then what should happen is the rpms should start to climb and your speed as well due to the Variator turning faster due to the higher rpms which in turn is turning your CLUTCH PULLEY which is turning your rear wheel.

And yes if the rpm gauge was going crazy it is either your CDI or the Gauge itself but since it was actually effecting the motor then it was a problem with the CDI.

If you hear the rattling of the weights then I would say they probably have flat spots and causing higher rpms due to the weights not pushing out the variator all the way and keeping the belt 1 or 2 ratios lower.

The weights are 18x14 and if you have a scale weigh one of the weights. It will weigh less than a full gram so if the weights are 12 it would weigh in around 11.7, 11.8 due to the wear.

If the weights in there you liked when it was newer then get the same gram weights. If you want lower rpms get 1 gram heavier weights. The best weights are DR. Pulley weights due to the material they use to make them they last longer. I buy nothing but Dr. Pulley Sliders, the 150s run best with anywhere from 11-13 gram weights it all depends on what kind of power you motor is producing.

Keep this in mind when deciding what gram weights you want:
ROLLERS= For every gram up or down it will change your rpms by 500-600.
a. 1 gram Heavier it will lower your rpms by 500-600.
b. 1 gram Lighter it will raise your rpms by 500-600.
SLIDERS= the change will be 200-350 rpm change.

So knowing that you can dial in the rpms you want to run at.

From your Video your scoot moves out smartly so I do not see how you can get a BIG change without some mods. I think your motor is a 157QMJ it will be etched on the case by the sidestand , very common motor and parts are everywhere.
Alleyoop

[rosiemoto]

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[Alleyoop]

Yep go to florida every year to visit my youngest son and his wife. They live in Boca right on A1A they cross A1A and are on the beach so I know 95,1 and A1A very well.

The weights effect the rpms as well as top end speed. If to light you will loose top end speed if to heavy the rpms will be to low and can also cause loss of top end . You can get a performance Variator which are 4 1/2 inchs in diameter compared to the 4 inch diameter of the OEM. So tuning the cvt for the Performance variator to get the belt to climb at least 1/8 from its edge you can gain about 3-5 more mph on the top end speed.

[Alleyoop]

Here is the OEM Variator and PERFORMANCE Variator:



To find out if your currently getting the most out of your cvt mark it like this 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch and run it at Wide Open Throttle then see how much of a mark is left. If the Mark is approx 1/8 from the edge that is excellent. If more than 1/4 then you can do better with 1 gram heavier weights.
Alleyoop

[rosiemoto]

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[Alleyoop]

What happened that you electric start is not working in the video it was.

NO YOU CANNOT KICKSTART it when the cover is off the CVT COVER holds the end of the kickstart shaft.

The electric start works off the Brake Switch WHEN the brakes are squeezed either one it sends JUICE to the SOLENOID and when you then push the start button it grounds the SOLENOID and completes the circuit.

So when you squeeze the brakes EITHER one does you stop lights come on? When you go to use the electric start do you hear a CLICKING or nothing. To test if the SOLENOID is bad GET A SCREW DRIVER and touch both terminals on the SOLENOID if it spins your starter it is bad.
Alleyoop

This is the SOLENOID just follow the THICK RED WIRE FROM THE BATTERY.

[rosiemoto]

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[Alleyoop]

If the screwdriver has a plastic or rubber handle it will NOT SHOCK YOU.

As far as the no brakes deal that is dangerous to be driving around without no stop lights.
You are asking for trouble the drivers in cars are not looking for a single silhouette they are looking for a big as car in front of them.

Just get two new brake switch's they are not expensive and are plug and play all you need is a screwdriver.
They are probably this type, the two wires plug in and one screw holds the switch:


HERE IS ROSIEHOTROD SHOWING HOW TO CHANGE YOUR OILS. VERY SIMPLE and SAVES YOU SHOP LABOR AND COST OF OIL that you can get MUCH CHEAPER AT AN AUTO PARTS STORE.

[rosiemoto]

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[Alleyoop]

GREAT JOB!!, Nice going now you see how easy some of the stuff is and you can save lots of bucks not taking it to a shop. Besides most of them do not know squat anyways they mostly just change parts and hope to get lucky and replace the bad part BUT they then tell you it was this and that and here is the bill(HAHA).

YOU FOUND THE BRAKE SWITCHS(GOOD).
ON THE BRAKE SWITCHS TRY SQUIRTING A LITTLE OIL OR WD-40 and see if the PLUNGER POPS out and works.


Yes you took the Tranny Oil Screw out that is why some oil came out. The trannies only take from 6-8 oz's of oil, its a splash system so as long as the oil reaches a gear it splashs oil all over in there.

Now the marker you made should go to the END OF THE VARIATOR you marked it up to where the belt is reaching. So you have about 1/4 of CLEAN SHINY area where the belt is not climbing that high. So you probably can do about 1/8 more into the shiny part.

That hose with the wire wrapped around it and a screw on the end of it is YOUR CARB BOWL DRAIN HOSE. If you unscrew the screw on the end the gas in your carb bowl will drain out. NOBODY really drains their carb bowls even when they take the carbs off to clean them or what not. The Carb Bowls hold approx 1 1/2 oz's of fuel is all.

The kickstarter all it needs is to be aligned you put it back together correctly but did not align the gears correctly that is all.

Here is how to align the kickstarter gears.
THE ACTUAL GEAR ON THE KICKSTARTER SHOULD HAVE TENSION SO IT SPRINGS BACK UP AFTER KICKING IT.



HERE IS HOW THE GEARS SHOULD BE:



AND HERE IS A VIDEO TO HELP YOU A LITTLE MORE:

[rosiemoto]

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[Alleyoop]

Yes you take off every screw you can find and the plastics pop off THEY HAVE TABS so get a screw driver and pry around finding the tabs so you do not break them.

Since yours has a DRUM REAR BRAKE maybe it only has one brake switch?

But on the other one squirt some WD-40 where the plunger is stuck maybe getting it unstuck so it pops out and activates the brakes. As you see how the brake switch works WHEN NO BRAKE is applied it pushs the little switch in and when you apply the brakes it allows the little switch to pop out and that lets the voltage pass to the YELLOW/GREEN wire to turn on the STOP LIGHTS.

I will google and see if I can find the answer about rear brake switch for that model.
Alleyoop

P.S THINK I FOUND YOUR LEFT SWITCH IT IS DIFFERENT THAN THE RIGHT ONE:
www.ebay.com/itm/Peace-Sports-Gas-Scooter-TPGS-808-150cc-Left-Brake-w-2-Wires-Mirror-Mount-7-8/161339321624?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dba09b2f8f7c74f3fac3d511aba146cc1%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D161339321624



6:00 minutes into it I see some wires going to the brake See if that wire going to that side is the brake switch. If so it also should have a plunger that goes in and out. It is a switch like this and if so you can take the switch out and get one just like it(JUST THE SWITCH):

www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Light-Switch-Round-8mm-GY6-150cc-50cc-Chinese-Scooter-Parts-139QMB-/161053768261?hash=item257f8d7a45&vxp=mtr

[Alleyoop]

I have VERIFIED that your LEFT BRAKE SWITCH is like I posted on EBAY so the right and left are different brake switchs.
Alleyoop

[rosiemoto]

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