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Post by olivertwisted on Apr 27, 2016 20:27:40 GMT -6
But my intermittent spark problem hasn't proven to be solved yet. I'm wondering what my pickup coil contacts look like and if the clearance is right.Believe me, I'm not hoping to have to buy a new stator and a tool to get it outta there but, if thats the problem well, thats what I'll do!
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Post by olivertwisted on Apr 27, 2016 20:31:06 GMT -6
To me it appeared to peter out after a few seconds of good flow, how did it appear to you Oliver? Well lets assume that the flow was ok, so lets look at the float level like CYBORG suggested. for that you will have to take the carb off unfortunately. Or you can spend 25 bucks on a new carb , the carb is a 24mm. If you want to take it off and adjust the float level I can put up how to do that if you want. Alleyoop I'll try the flow again for surity first but, really want to get sure on the spark problem before I go to task on the carb . |
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 27, 2016 20:36:39 GMT -6
Are you sure you have an intermittent spark problem, how did you come to that conclusion? Can you video the spark test to see the plug and spark your getting?
Will the motor start and run right now? If so I would test the STATOR to either eleminate it or it has a problem there is no two ways with the test.
20+ at idle and 50+ when you rev it up very simple to know whether you need a stator or not. That way we will know if its an electrical problem its the CDI you replaced the whole COIL system so if the Stator is good the CDI is craping out maybe when it heats up it craps out.
Alleyoop
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Post by olivertwisted on Apr 27, 2016 20:44:20 GMT -6
Have a look at this 2nd try while I had some help cranking. I dunno, I'm not too wary of that flow.... Should I be? |
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Post by olivertwisted on Apr 27, 2016 20:53:42 GMT -6
Are you sure you have an intermittent spark problem, how did you come to that conclusion? Can you video the spark test to see the plug and spark your getting? Will the motor start and run right now? If so I would test the STATOR to either eleminate it or it has a problem there is no two ways with the test. 20+ at idle and 50+ when you rev it up very simple to know whether you need a stator or not. That way we will know if its an electrical problem its the CDI you replaced the whole COIL system so if the Stator is good the CDI is craping out maybe when it heats up it craps out. Alleyoop Well, I had a weak and intermittent spark problem before I bought the coil. Beforehand, I had checked for spark a few times after the scoot had died and found that as a problem. Then bought and installed the coil. You may have missed that I reported that the coil hadn't fixed the spark problem. I was going to do some checks on the stator and pickup coil today but, now its getting dark again, lol! Dang, I miss my garage! |
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 27, 2016 20:57:42 GMT -6
Now on that test flow it looked good. So now we need to test if the carb bowl float is allowing enough fuel to cover the jets. So now hook the fuel hose back up to the carb and crank it for about the same amount of time then drain the bowl if only 1/2 oz comes out then we know the float needs to be adjusted.
Ok tomorrow is another day and you have some tests to do so we can hopefully find the culprit which may be not just one problem but a couple of problems, fuel and or weak stator and or weak cdi. The bad news is there is no way to test a CDI you need very special electronic equipment. So it would be a replacement if all appears to be ok.
The Spark flow is STATOR to CDI, PICKUP COIL to CDI, CDI to COIL, COIL to plug.
Alleyoop
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Post by olivertwisted on Apr 27, 2016 20:59:26 GMT -6
okie doke!
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Post by olivertwisted on Apr 27, 2016 21:08:20 GMT -6
Let me get clear. Do I want it to RUN while I do this because it prob will start unless i pulll the coil wire. Or pull it to just let it crank ?
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 27, 2016 21:15:57 GMT -6
To test the amount of fuel is being allowed to fill in the carb bowl, just cranking it do not let it start. Then drain it and see how much gas is in the bowl.
The stator test you need it running cause you want to test at idle and when revved up.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 27, 2016 21:16:55 GMT -6
Well it is very dark over here and I need my beauty sleep  Talk at you tomorrow Alleyoop |
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Post by olivertwisted on Apr 27, 2016 21:21:56 GMT -6
Yessiree, thanks!
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Post by olivertwisted on Apr 27, 2016 21:29:52 GMT -6
I got right about an ounce at about 10 secs cranking then opening up the screw at the end of the bowl drain.  |
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 28, 2016 11:04:27 GMT -6
Ounce is good that is about what the bowl will hold and cover the jets with the float in there. So the actual gas level in the bowl is where the bowl separates.  So all the fuel delivery looks good. So now the Stator test if it tests good then get a CDI and cross our fingers. If the cdi is near the muffler or anything hot move it away from the heat. Alleyoop |
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Post by olivertwisted on Apr 28, 2016 13:04:21 GMT -6
Okay good, fuel checks out . Stator test today. Yes, fingers crossed. I'm hoping it is the CDI . Cheaper and easier fix than the stator  |
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Post by olivertwisted on Apr 28, 2016 16:30:26 GMT -6
Ok, I finally got at the wires and ran the test. It seems that my resistance tests are too high? I should get below 1.0 ohms yes?
On all three yellow wires at the stator side of the connector (Unplugged), I get 1.1 ohms a-b, b-c, and c-a.
At idle (But, think the choke hadn't disengaged yet), I got 35-36-31 vac readings.
I don't have a tach to know my RPMS but revved and held the throttle up and got 56-66-66 VACreadings.
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
Talk at you tomorrow
