Lights won't turn off By Jeff (Read 9,924 times)

[Jeff]

My Vog is still stripped down of all plastic. All the repairs and maintenance I've had to do has taken much longer than expected. <sigh>

Anyway I'm ready to put things back together and find I have a dead battery. I jumped it off my truck (truck not running) and the scoot started right up. Rode it naked for a bit to charge the battery. I've now realized that the headlights and running lights are on even with no key in the ignition, have to disconnect the battery to turn everything off. The only thing electrical related I have done is fabricate a new mount for the rectifier which is located up under the dash. The original mount broke at the weld joint so the rectifier was just hanging by the wires. Didn't know this until I had all the plastic off the front. The wires seemed to be ok though.

Is it a bad ignition switch, or should I be considering something else?

[damin69]

Sound like the Diode had gone bad. Should be an easy fix.

[Jeff]

Diode sounds right. Thanks damin69. I can only find it at one place so I'll order it.
www.atv4usa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=89321-01&cat=26

[Cruiser]

Hi Jeff, there are two other scenarios to consider before replacing the diode:

1. The 2 wires going to the diode have been reversed somehow.

2. The 2 wires going to the diode are shorting to each other.

Either one of these conditions will result in headlights always on.

The diode is easy to check out with a multimeter. If an ohmmeter check with the leads reading one way and then reversing the leads results in a very low reading (close to zero), then the diode is shorted and the lights will stay on. If you get a high reading with the leads set one way and then reversed, then the diode is open and the battery will not be able to charge. Normal diode resistance readings are high in one direction and low when the leads are reversed.

[Jeff]

Bought a cheap digital multimeter and it shows the diode to be ok, current only goes in one direction. I've looked at the wires on the scoot and don't see anything amiss, no fraying of wires, plastic connectors seem good and tight. I will tear more into the wiring harness unless someone has another idea. From the research I've had to do on this, it seems the diode or the connections at the diode are the only thing that could cause all lights to be always on.

[Jeff]

By all lights I mean headlights, running lights front and rear, and instrument lights. No brake lights or high beams. During my recent and overdue PDI, I looked at all the wiring connectors, most if not all, are unique in some way that wouldn't allow you to plug one connection into another. I think I did disconnect and reconnect most of them to insure they were tight.

I may not have time until the weekend to take another look, but I'll check all the connections again. I had also ordered a new diode prior to checking mine so I'll try it when it arrives. The high beam switch and the passing switch both work as they should when the scoot is running.

One thing to note: One of my headlight bulbs is acting strange. When I hit the high beams, it goes completely off. I think this this is just a bad element in the bulb though, as the other one works fine. I have 2 new bulbs to throw in there and will before I put this back together.

[Jeff]

I'm back at it now and will work on it as much as needed this weekend. This thing needs to be done.

I didn't even put a key in the ignition. Just connected the battery and all the lights come on, with or without the diode in place. Also tried the new diode, no difference. So new diode and no diode did not make a difference.

Not sure if I should be looking at the passing switch or the ignition first, but I guess I'll just start cutting tie straps and sorting through the wires looking for something obvious.

[Jeff]

I'm a pretty good mechanic but fail at electrical. I have taken all the electrical tape off the wires where they exit the plastic tube that carries them to the front of the scoot. There are lots of splices at this point. One of the red wires is split into three, one of which goes to the diode. Back at the battery there is a red wire that connects to the positive terminal and it has an inline fuse, and I think this is the same red wire that exits the tube up front and splits into three.

Here's the thing that is baffling me. I decided to take everything out of the loop that I could, so I disconnected everything up front. The short harness going to the ignition switch, the 2 harnesses going to the handlebar controls, the headlight harness, the instrument harness, all disconnected. Only the fuse box is still connected. At the battery the negative lead is attached while the positive lead is disconnected. If I touch that thin red fused wire to the positive terminal, the rear running light comes on. It does this whether the diode is in or not.

Does this give you any insight? I can't trace this issue to the ignition switch or the passing switch or to any of the other things because I've taken them all out of the loop. No connectors are connected improperly because they are all disconnected.

[Alleyoop]

Could it be since you moved the Rectifier that it needs to be grounded and since you moved it it is no longer grounded? Or when moving the rectifier a wire got disconnected up by the instrument panel.
Alleyoop

[Jeff]

Rectifier looks to be grounded ok. Thing is the rectifier isn't even connected right now. Everything is disconnected, all wiring to controls, CDI, rectifier, diode, etc. Instrument panel is off the scooter, as is the headlight assembly, and everything else. The only thing connected right now is the fuse box up front, and the rear lights.

[Alleyoop]

I would then say it has to be one of the switchs is allowing battery juice pass the battery current, and I would suspect the Key switch since that is supposed to shut off juice from everything.
Alleyoop

[Jeff]

The ignition switch is disconnected, it's not even in the loop. Everything is disconnected, even the horn and fan. Everything but the fuse box and rear lights.

[tvnacman]

look in side the plugs in the area around the key switch you may have bent a pin in a plug . also check the the regulator plug/plugs you may have a bent pin in there .

John

[tvnacman]

is there a relay in there it could be stuck ?

[Cruiser]

You sure have a head scratcher, Jeff. Am I right in assuming no headlight switch? Also, did you disconnect the remote start/alarm system if you have one?