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Post by royldoc on Sept 23, 2011 1:14:44 GMT -6
I just installed 35w hid's on the magnum. They are bright. But I am having a problem with them lighting up. The magnum has two headlights. One or the other will light. I have done a little research and found that a hid ballast will use anywhere from 6-9 amps to start the bulb depending on type and bulb wattage. The particular ones I installed use about 8.33 amp each to start. Trying to start two of them at the same time puts a large draw on the battery.
Roy
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Post by Bashan on Sept 23, 2011 2:13:16 GMT -6
Hmmmmm.....interesting. Would a capcitor be of any benefit in this application? Here's another thought, could you use two seperate switches to fire one up and then after it's lit hit the other one? That would be a PITA but I'm just musing. Rich
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Post by royldoc on Sept 23, 2011 2:34:47 GMT -6
I didn't think of a capacitor, It might work. the switch would work though. After they are fully light they only draw about 3 amps. I was thinking about a relay on a timer circuit. Switching from high to low beams shouldn't be a problem If the bulbs are still hot they don't use as many amps to restart.
Roy
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Post by Bashan on Sept 23, 2011 3:22:30 GMT -6
Yours could be different but I read that the hi beam is simply a device that points the bulb up a little higher. If that was the case there wouldn't need to be any electrical compensation. Do you think yours might do that? Rich
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Post by royldoc on Sept 23, 2011 4:13:05 GMT -6
It has separate bulbs for high beams. The new ones in auto have a servo motor that positions the bulb for low or high. I'm going through my old notes on timing circuits. I don't want the timer to activate when I switch from high to low, just when I first turn them on.
Roy
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Post by tvnacman on Sept 23, 2011 18:12:19 GMT -6
so wire the timer to the low beam ckt
John
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Post by royldoc on Sept 23, 2011 22:51:56 GMT -6
The plan is to wire the low beams so when I turn them on one starts and the other is timed for 15-20 sec. then it will start. I put the 55w bulbs back in it for now. I will test it again when I get the timing circuit built. I am thinking about a set of these. eshop.ktautopart.com/motorcycle-hid-projector/kt-mt1.htmlRoy |
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Post by capncrunch on Sept 24, 2011 7:35:33 GMT -6
what type of stator setup do you have? if you are running a six pole as is the standard, you really need to consider an upgrade. buggy depot has a couple of solid options. like bashan said, having a separate toggle switch for your lights to switch them on after you start the scoot is the way to go. everyone that i know that had the HID setup goes this way otherwise the battery is dead in no time. at any rate, for your safety and everyone on the road, make sure that you don't use any of the plug and play kits. make sure you use one that has a projector lamp.
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Post by 89newbie on Oct 7, 2011 6:06:32 GMT -6
The plan is to wire the low beams so when I turn them on one starts and the other is timed for 15-20 sec. then it will start. I put the 55w bulbs back in it for now. I will test it again when I get the timing circuit built. I am thinking about a set of these. eshop.ktautopart.com/motorcycle-hid-projector/kt-mt1.htmlRoy OK did you do this if so what are the results? |
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Post by royldoc on Oct 7, 2011 8:50:55 GMT -6
I haven't had time to work on a timing circuit yet. What I did is I wired the power wires to the light on one side to a relay. the other side I wired it through a rocker switch then to a relay. After the engine is running I turn the lights on and only one side comes on, then I wait a little while then flip the rocker switch to on and the other side comes on. I used the relays so that 8+ amps of current don't flow through the stock headlight switch. Now I can almost see into the next county. LOL
Roy
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 7, 2011 14:09:15 GMT -6
have you ever seen a delay on make timer , what size is the power wire . Pulling a larger wire from the battery might be a good idea .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 7, 2011 14:13:56 GMT -6
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Post by royldoc on Oct 7, 2011 23:18:16 GMT -6
I ran a 10 gauge wire with a 30 amp fuse in it up to a fuse block I mounted in the left side glove box. I then power each light on separate 10 amp circuits with 16 gauge wire from the fuse block through the relays to the lights.
Roy
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 8, 2011 6:40:31 GMT -6
Roy , the RIB you can use for other things not related to scooters . The fact that the control side can be activated by a/c or dc . Just an example would be wiring to the ac side of the stator and use it to energize dc . If it were wired in series on the ac side to switch a dc circuit . This would give the ability to only put dc circuits on when the engine is running , and to be able to turn them off or on when the scooter is running . With the normally closed circuit will give you where to connect a charger or tender .
My guess is the 16 gauge wire is from the scooter harnes . The larger the wire the less resistance , if I had choice I would have gone with 14 awg min for headlight wiring .
John
+3
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Post by royldoc on Oct 8, 2011 9:06:14 GMT -6
I will look into the rib.The scooter harness only powers the relays. 16 gauge wire is what I had lying around. The scooter harness is 18 gauge or whatever the mm measurement is the Chinese use. The resistance and voltage drop between 16 and 14 gauge on a short run is minimal. And the wire will handle 20 amp, so it should be ok.
Roy
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