One for the experts; all tests pass, but no start By wutzthedeal (Read 1,891 times)

[wutzthedeal]

Ok will do. All I have in this tiny town is a hardware store that typically sells them for lawn mowers and such so I hope they have my size (and I seriously doubt they'll have NGK irridium) or I'll be down til Monday night. Ugh. What are the chances though that two previously healthy spark plugs just fail? I better retest both coils first.

[tvnacman]

looks like you have some emission items on that engine . I also noticed the boot on the coil has a piece of rubber pulled back . putt the coil wire off the plug and twist it clock wise , be sure its tight .

bypass the emission system and see if it starts .

John

[wutzthedeal]

Jan 26, 2013 15:29:31 GMT -6 tvnacman said:

looks like you have some emission items on that engine . I also noticed the boot on the coil has a piece of rubber pulled back . putt the coil wire off the plug and twist it clock wise , be sure its tight .

bypass the emission system and see if it starts .

John

Sorry John, I have no idea what you mean about bypassing emission system. I did just resistance test both coils; my newer one measures .3 ohms across terminals, 3k ohms from terminal to spark end. The older one shows .3 ohms across terminals, but open from terminal to spark end. I had read that they are supposed to be 10k ohms terminal to spark end. And I had already "screwed" the spark end of the coil on tighter, just to make sure. (on the new one, it would also measure open I believe if there was no contact between wires/boot section at spark end).

[Bashan]

I had originally felt it might be the stator trigger coil but you said you had spark so that went on the back burner. Now I'm leaning towards that again.

Cool video circling around the engine. I thought I was watching Fantastic Voyage again and Raquel Welch was fixing to appear from under the air cleaner pipe:

Nothing dear!....I'm not doing anything down here...just talking to the guys.

Check your trigger voltage and if that doesn't do it swap out a healthy coil and see what that does.

[wutzthedeal]

First time I laughed out loud all day, Bashan. THANKS man! If a young Raquel Welch popped out of anything with 20 yards of me, the last thing I'd be doing is sitting here typing stuff about scooters XD

[Bashan]

I forgot to mention that the open hose you asked about earlier is the fresh air intake for the PAIR system. They could do a better job of securing that at the factory. If you look on this pic you can see it on the right side of the scooter running up to the PAIR canister.

That system is a piece of junk but we'll worry about getting that off of your scooter after we get you running.

Jan 26, 2013 15:59:08 GMT -6 wutzthedeal said:

If a young Raquel Welch popped out of anything with 20 yards of me, the last thing I'd be doing is sitting here typing stuff about scooters XD

Oh yeah...er right man.....that's it...I'm typing, THAT'S what I'm doing!

[wutzthedeal]

Ok great. Alright, I used the link you gave and went to testing. I'm good on the blue wire at exactly .05 VAC, but on the red and black, I only get 3.5 VAC. I know you said 1 V would be enough to spark, but I should mention that the red n black wire junction that you noted in that link is one I've had a problem with before. It seemed to come apart without having a simple way to go back together, so I essentially shoved them back together. One side seemed to have a clip, about 1/5th the size of the wire clips that attach to the top of the coil. The other side was a metallic tube, seemingly too large to allow contact when I shoved them together, hoping that down the tube/barrel (about the size that would hold a fuse, or just smaller), contact would be made, and it was, and all was well so I used electrical tape to make sure that connection stayed secure. So, now we have a history of a problem in that area, but also 1,500 miles of riding after its repair. Also, I'm measure no AC voltage at the red/black wire at the CDI while trying to fire. Has this pinpointed something?

[tvnacman]

.05vac on the blue wire while cranking is too low . 3.5vac on the black wire is too low too . I just have to ask are you sure your reading on the stator side .

Seems funny to be both bad .

John

[wutzthedeal]

I read from both sides just to be sure. I just followed all the info. in this link scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=electrical&action=display&thread=997 and I tried it with two separate plugs and coils. Also, not sure if this matters but there is a missing wire out of the four-wire plug going into CDI. I can't tell which one but the wire is no where to be found and I bought this new so I can't imagine that it would suddenly make a difference with 2100 miles on the scooter.

[wutzthedeal]

The missing wire at CDI: important?:

[

Click here for originally sized image.

The connection, when torn apart, at red/black wire from stator... the two arrows indicating what should connect:

Click here for originally sized image

[wutzthedeal]

I can shrink that last photo if it's annoying to do the horizontal scroll, but it does give more detail. Lemme know. (PS Any CRUD you see is a result of me going nuts with CorrosionX; I love the stuff but it's a dirt magnet).

[Alleyoop]

That is your POWER wire from the Stator going to the CDI, so that better be making a good connection.
Alleyoop

[tvnacman]

what is the glaze ? and why is it everywhere ?

John

[tvnacman]

and the 4pin plug is not pluged in all the way , on the cdi .

John

[wutzthedeal]

Like I mentioned before, the glaze is CorrosionX. Love the stuff but it's a dirt magnet. Ok John I see that with the CDI but that was a first. I'm going to strip the red/black down and try it out, see if that has been the problem.