New Scooter Valve and Carb Adjustment By DrRocco (Read 1,007 times)

[DrRocco]

Hey guys,
As most of you regulars know, I got my scooter yesterday.  I've got it pretty much completely torn down and ready to really go through it with the proverbial fine toothed comb.  I have two questions for you:

1. While I've got the body panels off, should I check the valve clearances?  I've seen some who recommend doing so, but others say that TaoTao has been doing a great job at properly adjusting them at the factory.  Is it worth the extra effort?



2. I also have the carburetor out of it.  It's on the kitchen counter.  My wife is thrilled.  While I've got it out, should I consider re-jetting for any reason?  What about adjusting the height of the pin?  I have no reason to believe it won't work just fine the way it is, but I do already have it out so if there's anything I should consider doing to it, now is the time.



As always, Thanks for the help!   

[twowheeler]

The pin on those are non adjustable. Mine came with a 74 and it seemed ok. My valves on my 2013 were tight.

[DrRocco]

Oh crap. I just thought of another question I meant to ask you guys. I'd like to add a 12V cigarette lighter socket for powering accessories in a pinch, but mostly for easy hookup of my trickle charger. My plan is to wire the outlet in parallel with the main power leads for the rest of the electrical system. Simply stated, I would hook up the battery as normal, but also wire the leads of the outlet directly to the battery terminals. It makes electrical sense to me. What say you? If you're cool with doing that, should I fuse it? My natural inclination is to wire the outlet directly to the battery, fused with a 15A fuse.

[Alleyoop]

If the Carbs Fuel Ratio Mixture screw is Plugged and since you have it out I would drill out the plug. They set the carbs really Lean to pass emissions and you will need to adjust the carbs mixture. As far as the needle is concerned leave it as is no need to mess with that at all unless you mess with the air and or displacement on the motor then MAYBE need to adjust due to mid-range stumbles.
Alleyoop

[DrRocco]

Alleyoop, I've already got the plug removed and the snap-off screws removed. Hell, that's the only reason I took the thing off. It sounds like I can just slap the thing back in there and then when I fire it up, adjust the carb, right? What's your position on the valves?

[Alleyoop]

Since you have the panels off it is an easy job right now and many do come with tight valves. So I would check them now and make sure they are set and not have to mess with them within a couple of hundred miles.

Yes once you fire it up and let it warm up adjust the carb to get the highest idle of the fuel ratio mixture and then lower the idle using the IDLE SPEED SCREW to 1500-1800 rpms where ever it idles the smoothest without the rear wheel spinning. As far as the cig adapter yes fuse it.
Alleyoop

[DrRocco]

3 thousandths on both?

[Alleyoop]

If it is a 50cc .003 inchs on both, if it's a 150cc .004 inchs on both.
Alleyoop

[mxmatt]

Feb 25, 2014 22:23:04 GMT -6 DrRocco said:

Oh crap. I just thought of another question I meant to ask you guys. I'd like to add a 12V cigarette lighter socket for powering accessories in a pinch, but mostly for easy hookup of my trickle charger. My plan is to wire the outlet in parallel with the main power leads for the rest of the electrical system. Simply stated, I would hook up the battery as normal, but also wire the leads of the outlet directly to the battery terminals. It makes electrical sense to me. What say you? If you're cool with doing that, should I fuse it? My natural inclination is to wire the outlet directly to the battery, fused with a 15A fuse.

This is what I did with mine. Cigarette lighter and USB port.

[DrRocco]

Matt, tell me why you decided to mount them there and why you did both a USB and 12V. My plan was just to buy one of these: www.amazon.com/Marine-Grade-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket/dp/B0002KRC5Y, and have it available somewhere on the outside of the scoot. I'm considering maybe even devoting the whole glovebox to after-market electrical crap that's surface mounted and using the door on the glove compartment only as an access panel to the guts of the electronic junk. By the way, your glovebox is much more sealed than mine. I have two gaping holes for the hinge clearance. Yours at least are slotted. I couldn't put, for instance, a marble in mine. It would fall right out the bottom of one of the holes. I like what you've done here though. Nice work!