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Post by raford3 on Dec 2, 2011 22:07:07 GMT -6
I have a jet I'm sure. I still have the OEM carb. We'll know something tomorrow.
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Post by raford3 on Dec 2, 2011 21:13:46 GMT -6
That's my CDI box in your pic same wire colors and all. I didn't have much time to fool with it today but I did test the voltages on the battery. It was 12.9v before trying to start and 12.45v after running the starter for 15 seconds. I should have tested it with the starter load on it. The starter cranked vigorously though. So I'm guessing the battery is probably OK. It used to start with the electric starter but never very easily, I had to play with different throttle openings. Back to the jet change, merde.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 30, 2011 20:53:31 GMT -6
My CDI is 6 wire and I think it's DC. It's got spark. I think you're on to something with the functioning of the stator. That's why it kicks easily and won't start with the current draw caused by the starter when the battery is weak. I think I had an ah ha experience now I need to verify. Thanks for the info KZ1000ST. Thanks for the explanation Sprocket.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 30, 2011 17:14:18 GMT -6
Well, I think for practicality and to cover all the bases I'm going to try kz1000's suggestion first as I have a new battery in my other scoot. I also like the no money thing. My 150 doesn't give me any greif it just runs, stock no mods. The scoot didn't used to do this. Then I'll look for/order the pilot jets. I set the valve lash but I'm not sure I got it right. I didn't have a complete set of feeler guages so I found a spec of one I figured was like mine and it had 2 settings for intake and exhaust, I spilt the difference. It's working OK though as far a power when it's running so I figure the valves are closing. No noticeable tapping or anything. I just put a new spark plug wire and NGK plug in the thing. It was missing then got to the point it wouldn't hardly run at all. The insulation around the center electrode had eroded some and the connection at the end of the plug wire came off when I checked the plug, simplifying diagnosis. It ran like a scaulded dog after I replaced that stuff.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 29, 2011 22:07:51 GMT -6
I think I called the air/fuel screw the idle screw by mistake but it looks like it's back to the drawing board. I'll probably have to order the pilot jet as I don't know if it's in my parts box. I'll get both sizes. The reason I thought this would work is because I'd read somewhere that scoots are leaned out excessively to pass emissions, an attempt to beat the system.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 29, 2011 19:14:35 GMT -6
I read somewhere if you put in a bigger pilot jet it would help the bottom end, anyway that's why it's in there. To get it to run I had to completely close the idle screw, I tried multiple settings beginning with 1 1/2 turns open. I raised the variator weights to 7.5g so I thought more bottom would help. I really don't have a problem with the way it runs. The starting issue is only occasional which has me baffled, why isn't it the same every time? Sometimes it'll start with no throttle and sometimes it'll only start with full throttle if it starts at all with the starter.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 29, 2011 14:37:10 GMT -6
It's got a after market Keihin carb w/ a #45 pilot and a #90 main. It has a stock air filter which was replaced due to mishandling (cracked housing). It has the black solenoid coil on the side with the 2 wires which I thought was a choke, but maybe it's something else. The carb has a black diaphram with a needle. I think it's called a CVT. I thought if it was a fuel issue the smoke would be black or it'd be running rough. It runs fine once I get it started. If I put 40# in the rear tire it'll get close to 40mph on a flat no problem. I have to watch the tach to make sure it won't exceed 9k.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 29, 2011 12:21:03 GMT -6
A lot of times my Dash 50cc scoot fails to start with the electric starter. I give it either full throttle,1/2,1/4 or no throttle and it's a no go. I smell fuel in the exhaust. I go around and kick it with no throttle, sometimes only once and it starts right up. It typically has some light colored smoke. Oil? It clears up when it's warm though. I guess I need to go up to Honda House and kick start one of their new ones to feel the compression. The scoot doesn't have 3000 miles and has had the oil changed every 650 miles since new. Anybody got any ideas? I don't like looking like my stuff is junk.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 11, 2011 19:13:08 GMT -6
I ordered a high performance CDI unit from these people. Site looks good, emailed order confirmation and item shipped notification. I've waited 4+ weeks and no delivery. I tried calling and got voice mail with no return call. I then tried emailing on several occasions with no response. I have now called the BBB to try to get my money back. There are several complaints against this company that come up when you google them. I'd stay away from them.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 10, 2011 6:19:06 GMT -6
Take some duct tape and block the air intake to see if the flow improves.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 9, 2011 21:12:10 GMT -6
Take the hose off the carburetor and verify flow when you attempt a start.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 9, 2011 21:10:02 GMT -6
Disregard my previous post your fuel lines are hooked up right.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 9, 2011 17:33:39 GMT -6
reverse fuel in/fuel out per the drawing
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Post by raford3 on Nov 9, 2011 17:27:25 GMT -6
On mine the line you say is coming from the tank goes to the carburetor and the one that goes to the carburetor is coming from the tank, I don't know that it matters, but it may be like a check valve.
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Post by raford3 on Nov 9, 2011 12:33:55 GMT -6
Hebert, your vacuum line from the intake manifold needs to connect to the crankcase vent and the petcock valve. The line with the fuel filter needs to connect to the left side/ middle of the carburetor. The drain needs to be connected to the bottom of the float bowl and can just hang loose on the other end.
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