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Post by imnts2 on Feb 18, 2012 16:10:01 GMT -6
OK time for a quick report. once it opened up, I could not find anything out of sorts. Bore and piston miked like new. I filled the head with lacquer thinner and waited a day with only a little leakage. So a set of cheap rings, gaskets and spark plug were ordered. After de-glazeing she was assembeled. It took forever to get the rear brake properly bled. (finally removed the caliper to get a straight loop. That and with better half's help I got it).
Amazing. I only have abour 5 miles on it now. The enginel stops quick and tight when the ignition is turned off so I am still ony thinking it is really fixed. But the hammering that has been around for a coupts of months is gone (for now at least) And goodness it runs. 0 to 40 (real) is nice and strong. Not a match for the Majesty, but really fun. So much better -. So far, I am limiting it to 40 until it gets most of 100 mles on it although today I caught it creeping up a little.
plan to change oil at 100 miles.
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 16, 2012 17:17:36 GMT -6
Alley is right one. Just clamp a vice grip on and get it turning. a few minutes with a file will clean up any burs that need it but typically I never need to do that.
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 16, 2012 17:13:53 GMT -6
There is not a lot of extra amps in the battery so things have to be pretty near perfect to get it to fire quick. I don'w want to confuse things at this stage, but I would want to carefully check valve clearances the first chance I got. Just a little tight on the intake will sure mess up starting and fuel flow. But you gotta get a steady spark.
Good luck. Patience is a virtue on these sooots
lefty2
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 16, 2012 9:16:53 GMT -6
What's this?
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 11, 2012 13:25:32 GMT -6
Cheers
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 9, 2012 0:53:40 GMT -6
Bashan . Thank you for adding an important point. Upgrading the stator without looking at the rest of system as well as the power requirements to drive it, is perhaps doing more harm than good.
It is always interesting.
Cheers lefty2
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 7, 2012 12:15:23 GMT -6
You are right. An Echarm does not have a GY6 engine. thank you. MY bad.
I agree that most of us are not capable of fixing EFI no matter what it is on. The cheapest Ford or Kia, a small VW diesel, my Majesty or my Friends Honda Scoot. So I figure my 00 Subaru and my 05 Merc will probably go to one of my Friends when the EFI acts up. But at 170k and 120K without anything related to the power train needing service, that's OK. Worth it.
I absolutely agree I do not want to do though the mess many of us know about with a Hyosung M53 250CC scooter recently. EFT is sufficiently sensitive to poor electrical connections I would want to be very careful about it on any of the cheapest of the china scoots
But my success at getting early XJ6 EFI fixed (and that was amongst the most poorly built stuff I have ever had the pleasure of making a living with) leaves me pretty confident I can figure out most EFI and get it fixed. I do know I will be able to ask intelligent questions and how tell how competent my help is. And I have some great friends.
The XJ6 experience reminds me how great EFI and computer managed fuel and ignition steams are. Even as crude as early EFI was, those early EFI XJ6's suddenly ran like they were built 20 year earlier when gasoline was gasoline and engines were not emissionized out of 15% or more of their horsepower.
So it is my guess that with proper EFI. a 150cc (would be nice to have a 4 valve head) will run a great deal better than the best tuned stock 150 that will pass Fed emissons standards. Equal to a carefully upgraded 170 with a lot of high priced parts and labor and still be more reliable.
IF I can get a 150 that will reliable run near 70MPH and cruise 60, I am not sure I would not like that better than most behemoth 250's. ( and my 400)
I think that makes it worth at least careful consideration.
and that is what prompts this thread
Cheers lefty2
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 7, 2012 10:57:50 GMT -6
Good lead sprocket. But I think I want a shop tool. I woud think a conventional tach/dwell meter would be fairly usefull and an inductive timing light would allow me to see the timing and advance curve. Together I would be able to get a reasonably accuate map. Good enough fer a good enough country boy. Yes?
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 7, 2012 9:19:28 GMT -6
I am puzzeled . Why multiple grounds. Don't misundestand. We often use the chassis as a wire. I ground my trailer fram to my car chassis and ground each of my tailer lights to a convenient place on the trailer frame. I run a strap from the engine to the frame on the car so now I can use the engine/tansmission as a ground "wire". ON a scoot with all it's plastic the builder has to find a way to connect thee lights to both the positive and negative terminals of the battery.
So of course the cooing fan must be connected to the negative terminal of the battery as well as the positive termnal.
I know I use the term ground to imply negative side of the circuit. Or is there something else going on?
Thanks cheers lefty2
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 6, 2012 9:48:15 GMT -6
I really don't know from experience so hopefully someone with experience will pick up and give you a better answere. It would effectively reduce the voltage being applied to the heating coil. That would for sure slow done how fact the auto choke stopped enriching the mixture on a cold start. If you do not get a better answer, I would put it a 10 ohm in and if I then experinced too rich a mixure or to long a rich mixture on cold starts, I would reduce the resisance. to perhaps 5 ohms- 5 watts. If still to rich I would eliminate it. Too low a resistance will also run more current through it and cause it to burn out sooner.
Cheers lefty2
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 6, 2012 9:31:59 GMT -6
If you own any EFI 150CC GY 6 powered scoot, I would like to here about your experience with it's performance.
What is it's top speed? How does it compare with any stock 150 not Fuel Injected? Top speed as well are general riding?
What maintenance headache's have you had?
Dealers that sell them - how are the complaints compared to what you used to experience with non injected engines.
Please stay with 150's only
Thanks a lot.
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vespa
by: imnts2 - Feb 5, 2012 19:21:22 GMT -6
Post by imnts2 on Feb 5, 2012 19:21:22 GMT -6
Does it have an Ox sensor? If so , check the wiring.
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 4, 2012 16:36:42 GMT -6
very good thread
That is I was thinking. Sometimes it takes a bit or reading between the lines. No-one wants to remind a dealer that he may be a bit optomistic what his performance stuff will do. Stick with stock.
thanks
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 4, 2012 9:49:59 GMT -6
thank you.
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Post by imnts2 on Feb 4, 2012 8:29:03 GMT -6
I am of the opinion that a 24mm carburetor properly tuned is the best alternative on a stock 150CC GY6 in ordinary street use with a stock or near stock clutch engagement RPM. A stock engine just does not pull enough air through it to make a 30mm work well, particularly a low rpm- even with a free flowing exhaust/intake.
On the other hand, a BBK with a big valve head, an A9 cam and a free flowing exhaust just about begs for a 30mm carburetor?
Am I correct or am I missing something?
Thanks for the expertise.
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