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Post by justguy1 on Jun 28, 2013 17:50:27 GMT -6
Well that is it then.. because I have power with that unplugged
So now its a melted wire we have to find.... And that means taking Everything apart.. in order get to it.. I have to remove the whole front.. this is not looking fun...
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 28, 2013 17:33:04 GMT -6
Ok.. here is the next thing that is going to blow your mind...
ITS NOT THE IGNITION... I went back out to hook up the jumpers from the red to the black... And power came on.. nothing worked of course... but when I took the jumper off... POWER STILL ON.. Now the headlight is on... and the horn moves the speedodometer up and down like always.. and hit the START button.. and it all shuts down...
Now where are we....LOL... im ready to give up..
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 28, 2013 17:05:03 GMT -6
I didn't mess with the solenoid.. and as you can see in the picture of my scooter.. ( that was when I was doing the disconnect switch) the positive was OFF THE BATTERY.. I disconnected everything .. made sure that nothing got touched or fried...
When you say cluster.. do you mean all those wires that are connected to the switch plug?? that is a LOT of wires....
Im confused when you say ignition switch are you referring to the ignition where I put my key in to turn the scooter on?? or the plug that goes to the cluster of wires? Because if its the ignition.. why is it doing the same thing when I have it unplugged as well??
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 28, 2013 15:19:13 GMT -6
My test meter does not look like that or have the continuity
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 27, 2013 22:36:03 GMT -6
I have never jumped the battery with the disconnect being off. Only thing I did was added the disconnect switch.
I just want everyone to know it was my idea to go ahead and do the disconnect switch not anyone elses. I took the risk by not researching it more. I thought it was a great idea of what the benefits are..
That being said as I said on Ride. Im not here to chose sides I just want my scooter fixed I don't care who helps me. I will be grateful to those that do... I just want to get back on the ride...
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 27, 2013 21:09:18 GMT -6
Alley my friend there is no reason for you to apologize.. You have been a blessing. If not for you guys I would be up a creek without a paddle.. Im thankful for all of you guys here and elsewhere that are willing to help.. You all don't know me, yet your willing to take the time out of your busy lives to help me and that's friggin awesome.. Ok so here is the crazy thing tonight... So I take apart the key ignition switch.. Meaning if I turn the key on NOTHING... well not so fast.. So I have it connected I turn the key on and well you know nothing works.. So I take the key out like normal everything stays on... then I disconnect the switch plug... And ITS STILL ON... the head lights, the odometer. I hit the blinkers no blinkers but the odometer dims, hit the horn the speedodometer goes up... Now here is the kicker.... I hit the start button.... EVERYTHING SHUTS OFF.. didn't have to turn the power off.. And funny thing was when the key on .... if I press the start button.. everything lights up.. I didnt try the horn and blinkers, but the dash lights... So im more friggin lost now then I was before... And if you guys can shed light on the jumper thing.. the one I bought I don't think is gonna work it has alligator clips on the end and are too big to fit in the holes.. So that is where I stand going to be working on this all weekend.. Read more: itistheride.boards.net/index.cgi?action=display&board=250u&thread=2870&page=3#ixzz2XTb2M0FV
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 27, 2013 17:09:58 GMT -6
sounds like a plan.. glad we got past the disconnect switch.. LOL ..
So let me tell you guys a little of what I done and the results and we can start tackling that..
I bought a tester (the one with the metal point and the light bulb) i have a meter tester too. I clipped the tester to the POSITIVE side of the battery.. I tested the ignition connection plug from the key ignition and I posted a picture of it up here.. On the middle wire on top with the key on.. I got the bulb bright.. the middle on the bottom was DIM.. on the SOLENOID.. there are 4 wires.. looking at the battery (behind the amp) the top two lit up the bottom two did NOT... When I turned the key off.. the same wires from the ignition switch plug both lit up bright..
So those are the things I tested... Also without the key in.. when I press the start button.. the speedodemeter goes a up and down....
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 27, 2013 14:28:51 GMT -6
Where in Florida .. and how much are you asking for it??
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 27, 2013 11:44:34 GMT -6
Exactly how Alley has his drawing is HOW i have my setup.. If you take that wire from the frame that he has in the drawing WITHOUT the disconnect swith.. where does it GO??? To the battery negative terminal right??? IF so that is how I have my setup.. the frame wire is connected to the BOTTOM of the disconnect switch and the other wire goes to the negative connection of the battery. EXACTLY how in that drawing.. So now that we see that it is correct.. What else can be the cause since that hook up is correct.. These are right now what's going on.. from what someone on here said was to connect the tester to the negative and NOT the positive when testing the wires on the ignition switch.. So have to find what else can be causing this.. Since the setup WAS correct other then connecting it to the NEGATIVE side.. What else could be short.. I read on a honda helix site that it could be the starter switch that is the issue.. but not sure how the starter switch would effect the whole left handle bar side.. Ok just really looked at your picture.. MINE IS TOTALLY NOT LIKE THAT.. LOOK AT the picture of my battery.. You will see what im talking about.. According to your picture that would be the POSITIVE side of my battery, NOT The negative side. like in your drawing.... Let me try to find a picture of what im talking about. Look at this picture.. tried to draw on it.. couldn't LOOK at the battery.. The negative side is the closest to the bottom... The Positive side you can see is red with the + sign on it. And you see the SOLENOID is on the POSITIVE side of my battery..
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 26, 2013 22:12:13 GMT -6
Ok.. so now im REALLY confused.... Bashan's picture shows the negative would of been directly from the starter to the battery.. So where is the ground to the frame?? Here is a picture of the setup.. Now im confused by what you said compared to the picture that Bashan put up.. He shows 2 wires connected to the frame... Yet NO wire that was connected to the battery is connected to the frame. And then you said connect only one wire to the frame.. wow this was a big mistake I made to save my battery.. should of just left it alone..
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 26, 2013 20:07:24 GMT -6
Ok.. So here is what I did.. I can get a video if needed...
Ok, so the picture the battery normal.... I took the wire that was connected to the negative terminal.. and connected that to the shut off then ran another wire to the batter terminal.. I guess where im confused is Wasn't the original wire that was on the terminal grounded?? So did I connect the grounded wire to the shut off?? and nothing was grounded to the battery terminal?? Did that cause anything to be shorted out?? I guess im gonna have to redo the shut off... question is as stupid as it sounds... How do i ground something to the frame of the original one is already grounded to the frame??? Guys im so sorry for sounding stupid.. Just don't know ..
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 26, 2013 16:37:29 GMT -6
I guess I miss understood when I saw bashan's picture of the cartoon like thing that he had.. What I did what took the wire that was connected to the negative terminal of the battery and put that on the bottom of the battery disconnect, then used a battery wire I had from an old scooter and connected that to the top of the battery disconnect and connected the other side to the negative of the battery terminal.
Did not know that it had to be connected to the positive side. I was trying to find the post that Bashan put up with the drawing. So how do I test if the solenoid is shot??
But the thing is. when I turn the battery disconnect key off.. you can't start the scooter.. everything gets shut down there is no juice going to the scooter.. when I turn the battery disconnect key back on then it starts... So I am really really confused now... IM so glad for you guys on this board I would be more lost without you all..
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 25, 2013 17:53:40 GMT -6
@ cruiser.. will try that tonight. but still cant past the fact that there is power when I remove the key as well. Im starting to think that its time to replace the ignition switch. bad thing is having to switch everything.. the ignition, gas, glove compartment, helmet lock and trunk.. fun fun fun.. Why couldn't it be something so easy....
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 23, 2013 19:35:49 GMT -6
Ok.. looking at that picture the R/W and R don't light.. The other two do when I use the tester... Should I be using a tester with the light bulb in it... Or should I use the voltage tester?? I have both.. I check the 20amp fuse its good.. changed it out and still did the same thing...
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Post by justguy1 on Jun 23, 2013 18:27:42 GMT -6
I may have not said something right. This is what happens when the key is in the ON position.. I have nothing.. no blinkers, no horn, no dash lights. and only the high beam little bulb light works... And in the picture I posted with the two arrows the top wire ( I think is green) im color blind. Lights up bright with the tester.. The black/white wire lights dim.. The all black wire does not light up at all...
When I shut the key to OFF pull it out.. The main headlight comes on now.. the odometer is lit... If you push on the horn If makes the speedodometer go up and down.. if you hit the blinkers.. it dims and lights the odometer.... And the green and black/white wire light up bright on the tester... and the ALL black wire also lights up the tester.
Ok that should be everything that happens.. Fuses are all good So that is where I stand... And where the 20amp fuse is.. there are 4 wires with it... The two in the back light the tester and the two in the front dont.... Ok, now that I said a mouth full.. Im still lost.. LOL>.. wish I was as mechanically inclined as Bashan with this scooter...
I don't think anyone switched the wires.... It was working when I bought it.. Then all of sudden they stopped working... So Im not sure or don't think anyone else switched anything..
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