Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 11, 2014 15:49:36 GMT -6
Ok, it looks like my idea, and entire project will be no good. I took out the dipstick and shined a flashlight in to the hole and I saw that there isn't an air gap between the oil level and the engine casing; meaning if I were to do what I was planning on doing, the positive crank case pressure would push oil out of the dipstick hole until the oil level was low enough to allow air into the tube.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 11, 2014 13:55:21 GMT -6
If it is white it is most likely fuel that is spraying out of the muffler, start Start it up and put you palm by the end of the muffler to get some on your hand and smell it. I fill my oil and do NOT screw it in to check. When the level is halfway up the xxxxx's it is full. If you then screw it in and check it, it will cover all the xxxxx'x, so your dip stick looks just fine halfway up the xxxx'x without screwing it in. Alleyoop I smelled the exhaust after letting the engine idle for a little while. It just smelled like exhaust. I did notice that the white smoke only comes out in the upper rpm range (4000+). If I give the throttle a quick twist I can see the smallest amount of smoke and if I put my hand in front of the exhaust white I do that, my hand does smell a wee bit like gas. Just curious; from what you guys are saying this is gas in the exhaust, wouldn't that make black smoke similar to having an overly-rich mixture? Also, Bash, your drawing skills are nothing to laugh at. They make mine look even worse than they already are. Why can I model nearly anything but can't draw anything?
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 10, 2014 18:35:19 GMT -6
So I DO have to fill it up to the top of the crosshatch?
I pulled the plug and it is dry, no oil at all. However, as I stated earlier, there is oil spitting out of the crank case venting hose coming from the valve cover, which is connected to the intake which means it will eventually end up being combusted. Perhaps the amount of oil being burned is just enough to produce smoke but not enough to make the spark plug wet.
I will check if the exhaust pipe smells of gas tomorrow.
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Post by glavey on Jul 10, 2014 16:45:46 GMT -6
The smoke is white, not a hint of blue. The owners manual as well as many people online say to check the oil with the stick not screwed in.
Also, the owners manual says to add 900ml, but I think that is too much. Everywhere I look online people say 750 to 850ml, just like you said bash.
Could it be that since I don't have too many miles on the new cylinder/piston/rings that the rings haven't fully seated yet and are allowing more-than-usual blowby gasses?
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Post by glavey on Jul 10, 2014 16:36:35 GMT -6
Nice illustration bash, I do like the idea, but I have a slightly different idea. I'll try to illustrate it as best I can. Behold my horrid microsoft paint skills: Basically, I will drill two small holes upwards from the bottom between the threads and the crosshatched stick angled toward the center. Then I will drill straight down from the top of the stick to where the two small holes intersect. Put epoxy in top hole, jam hose barb in. Re-drill small holes if the barb or epoxy obstructed them.
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Post by glavey on Jul 10, 2014 15:17:35 GMT -6
I don't think the oil is over filled; here is the oil level with the scoot on the center stand and the dipstick just pressed against the threads:
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Post by glavey on Jul 10, 2014 15:05:34 GMT -6
B...b...b... but I love cheese! I really do. Too much probably.
I want to make a secondary crank case vent by drilling a hole though the dipstick and gluing in a hose barb. Similar to the oil catch can scrappydog sells, but keeping the crosshatched portion of the stick connected.
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Post by glavey on Jul 10, 2014 11:55:33 GMT -6
I have an idea involving for a project involving the dipstick and some epoxy and I want to make sure the epoxy will adhere to it.
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Post by glavey on Jul 10, 2014 11:18:32 GMT -6
I found the cause. It was the crank case breather hose coming from the valve cover spitting oil into the intake.
Is it normal for that hose to spit oil even at idle?
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Post by glavey on Jul 9, 2014 16:59:47 GMT -6
Ok, thanks. Just to make sure, is filling the oil to the halfway mark acceptable, or should I be filling it to the top of the crosshatch?
Also should I still consider my engine in break-in?
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Post by glavey on Jul 9, 2014 16:07:30 GMT -6
Many use 15x40 diesl oil for break in when the motors are new. You should put in 10w40 oil Get it at your auto parts store Castrol GTX which is all I ever use also Valvoline is a good brand etc.. Alleyoop I'm not sure if I technically am still in break-in or not. I installed a 72cc bbk shortly after I bought the scooter and have only put about 300kms on it... in 3 years. Yes, I checked the oil after running the engine for a few minutes, still half way up the crosshatched part of the dipstick. I changed the oil about 3 days ago and have started the engine and checked the oil everyday since. Same level on the stick. I also checked the valves and they were still at .002 and .003, however I did a little google searching and I read that after you install a bbk, since you are increasing the power output you will get a corresponding increase in heat generated. That seemed quite logical to me so I re-adjusted the valves at .003 intake and .004 exhaust. This is the first air-cooled engine I have really worked on, besides lawn mowers. The valves are louder than I am used to, although I can only really compare their noise to car engines I have worked on. Is it normal for the valves to be clearly audible when the engine is running? Regarding the oil grade; I read on the scooter doc manual that if you live in a warmer climate you should run 10w40 instead of 10w30. I live in one of the northern states that shares a border with Canada; would that count as a cold climate?
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Post by glavey on Jul 9, 2014 11:10:40 GMT -6
I recently changed the oil in my scoot (2011 taotao atm50-a1) from 10w-30; what everybody seems to use, to 15w40; what the manufacturer/owners manual recommends. The only 15w-40 oil I could find is diesel oil, specifically Shell Rotella T.
Before I bought the oil and put it in the scoot, I researched if other people had used diesel oil in their scoots and other air-cooled 4T's. It seems may people do this, including guys from Ooty's Scooters. I checked the back of the oil container and it is stamped with "api service cj-4/sm" so it appears to be rated to be used in spark engines as well as commercial (diesel) engines.
I bought the oil, did an oil change on my scoot a few days ago. Now today when I was fiddling around on the scoot, I noticed that there was a very small amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. Of course I stopped the engine immediately, and looked online for the causes of white smoke from exhaust.
It seems that with water-cooled engines, it means coolant in leaking in to the combustion chamber somehow; not really relevant, or the smoke is actually steam from moisture in the air; quite possible as it has rained for the past 2 days here.
On an air-cooled engine it means oil is being burned, the same steam-from-moisture thing, or the valves are leaking oil into the combustion chamber.
I did, about 2 months ago, adjust the valves to .002 intake and .003 exhaust. I don't think the valves are out-of-adjustment yet, but really anything is possible with these chinese engines.
Should I start the engine up again and let it idle and see if the smoke goes away, confirming the steam-from-moisure theory, or should I let the engine cool down and check the valves? Or do something else I haven't thought of?
I should also note that at the time I changed the oil, I also installed a oil temperature sensor in the bolt hole where the oil drain usually is. I don't see how this could cause me to burn oil but I might as well go for full disclosure. Also, when I filled the oil, I was on the center stand and I added just over 700ml of oil, bringing the oil to midway on the dipstick when checked by not screwing the dipstick in, just putting it against the threads.
Edit: checked the spark plug; it is dry, no oil.
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Post by glavey on Jul 8, 2014 13:02:45 GMT -6
We have confirmation!
I was fiddling around on my scooter in the garage and one of my neighbors happened to notice and inquired as to what I was doing. I explained the charging situation to him and as luck would have it, he had a 35w h3 he wasn't using!
I installed it and measured the voltage at the battery w/ the rpms around 4k. 14.72v DC. Say it with me in the kool-aid guys voice: Oh Yeah!
I guess when the bulb I ordered online comes in I'll give it to my neighbor as repayment.
I can finally get around to riding this thing... right after I get it jetted and tuned properly.
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Post by glavey on Jul 8, 2014 12:54:48 GMT -6
You mean you need the size of the nipple caps for the head suction component on a 50cc? The things that fit over the suction nipples on the vacuum tube? The round things that are pulled onto the nipples when you......what was the question? Oh yeah....all vacuum attachments are 3/16", buy your pasties accordingly. Nice avatar, too bad I just retired Eeky. Rich Eeky may be retired, but he will live on forever in our nipples. I mean hearts.
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Post by glavey on Jul 7, 2014 20:16:57 GMT -6
That has to be one of the most suggestive titles for a thread ever...
Anyway I need to know the nipple size on the intake for a 139qmb, I am going to buy some vacuum caps.
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