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Post by globetrotta on Jul 14, 2014 22:17:58 GMT -6
Hi guys, I have a chinese 150cc scoot. Jonway 150T-2/Bali 150/whatever countless scooters use the GY6 engine.
The problem I'm having is that it will randomly die on me while I'm riding it. I can start it up and idle it for seemingly forever, but if I take it around the block a few times, it will die on me once or twice.
Bonus question: My scoot doesn't shut off if I turn the key off. I can even take the key out and it will still run. The only way it shuts off is from the kill switch, is this a problem?
Thanks everyone!
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Post by Deleted on Jul 14, 2014 23:25:52 GMT -6
sounds like your valves need adjusting. the key not working sounds like the kill wire going to the key switch is broken/disconnected.
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Post by globetrotta on Jul 14, 2014 23:37:35 GMT -6
What do I adjust my valves to? Also, is there any possibility of it being my fuel pump/filter?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2014 2:46:36 GMT -6
fix the ignition (key) switch first, that sounds like where all the problems are located. valves will not cause an engine to randomly stall, that is typically confined to electrical issues.
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Post by Bashan on Jul 15, 2014 3:37:50 GMT -6
What do I adjust my valves to? To make it run better....are you trying to be a smart aleck? Oh...I see. If you've never adjusted your valves you need to regardless. Go to the Library=>Engine&Exhaust=>Valve Adjustment....there's several tutorials. For a 150 it's .004" intake and .005" at least that's what I do and I'm always right.
Try loosening your gas cap. Notice any difference? OK, now start the bike and ride it. NOW do you notice any difference? If it runs better your vent is plugged. You didn't really just loosen the cap and stand there did you? Sure you didn't, let's move on.
Find the black/white wire into the CDI and make sure the connection is tight. Now pull it off, hold it in your left hand while standing on your left foot. Do you feel silly? OK, that's normal, reattach it. Go to Library=>Electrical=>Ignition Switch Testing. Running those tests will make you feel less silly and will also tell you if your killwire is working. Did you know that a GY6 with an AC CDI will run without a battery? Of course you don't, you can't get yours to shut off. How DID you get it to shut down? Oh....the ride around the block method. That can take a while sometimes. Just goofing on you a little pal, no offense. Mixed in with the ridiculousness are valid points, go ahead and do them. Not the standing on one foot! Come on man!
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Post by globetrotta on Jul 16, 2014 21:06:12 GMT -6
Getting 45-50v to the CDI from the Stator (too much voltage?) No voltage from the Stator to the Regulator. I'm assuming the Stator is bad. Is there any other way to test it?
Also, I adjusted my valves and it seems to run a bit better.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 16, 2014 22:34:38 GMT -6
That is good anything 40+ to CDI is good, do you have your METER on VAC and not DC. Your battery could have a bad cell, put your meter on the battery and crank it starting it IF it drops really low your battery has a bad cell and is not charging.
Also start it up and then test the wire from the R/R to the battery and see what it is putting out to the battery it should be well over 12volts, then rev it up and it should register at least 13+ volts. Alleyoop
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Post by globetrotta on Jul 16, 2014 23:18:56 GMT -6
Thanks I'll check that tomorrow. I'll also go through that video and do those tests. What happened today was I was driving it all over the place just fine, it didn't die on me at all, then I stopped at a store and then it wouldn't start at all, the battery was dead.
Also, the key switch doesn't kill the bike when I turn it off, I have a schematic that's looking like that that's a normal thing to do and to use the kill switch to actually turn it off.
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Post by Bashan on Jul 17, 2014 19:26:42 GMT -6
The key switch and killswitch often use the same wire to kill the engine, they both ground out the spark just from different spots. You can use the kill if you want, it won't hurt anything but it's not supposed to be like that. Did you adjust the valves yet? It can cause it be very hard to start after you shut it off. There is info in the Library, scroll down and use it. Rich
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Post by globetrotta on Jul 27, 2014 16:27:14 GMT -6
Hey everyone, thanks for all the help you've given me. I've found the source of the problem with my scoot. At least two vacuum lines that go to the carb where completely broken. After I fixed that it runs quite smooth for as long as the tank will take me. I adjusted the valves and it sounded a bit smoother after that as well. I'm still having the key switch/kill switch problem. But it's not a really big deal right now for me to fix it. At the moment, my biggest problems are two things: -Some kind of vibration when I'm giving it some gas, it stops when I coast. -When I hit the front brake, my scoot really shudders, and isn't a smooth break like the back break is.
Any solutions to those little problems?
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 27, 2014 16:39:04 GMT -6
Hey everyone, thanks for all the help you've given me. -Some kind of vibration when I'm giving it some gas, it stops when I coast. -When I hit the front brake, my scoot really shudders, and isn't a smooth break like the back break is. Any solutions to those little problems? The vibration when starting off is most likely the clutch is slipping due to being glazed and they will not grab until enough centrifugal force(MORE RPMS) are applied. So take the bell off the clutch and sand off the glaze on the clutch pads. The shuddering on the front breaks could be a warped disc and or bad brake pads and or glazed pads.
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Post by globetrotta on Jul 27, 2014 17:01:23 GMT -6
It actually feels fine when starting off, but when I'm cruising at the speed limit, I get this pulsating vibration. When I let off the gas to slow down, the vibration completely stops.
I'll check out the front brake setup tonight, thanks!
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 27, 2014 17:16:06 GMT -6
Well that is different, do you have a tach on the scoot? is the motor pulsating in other words not runing evenly, RPMS not steady and bouncing up and down a little?
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Post by globetrotta on Jul 27, 2014 17:24:22 GMT -6
Unfortunately I don't have a tach on my scoot. What it sounds like is that the engine is at a constant rate when I'm going a constant speed. My rpms sound steady, not going up and down. The vibration must be something else that just pulses when I'm at cruising speed.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 27, 2014 17:32:06 GMT -6
Then it is your CVT something is slipping in there. I always tell folks get a Tach it is one of the best investments you can make that tells you the past present and future of something going south. And You may not know it but I will bet your rpms are bouncing at least a couple hundred rpms. You have to have a good ear to notice the difference on how a motor runs and sounds and know motors to boot. Alleyoop
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