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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 28, 2014 13:59:59 GMT -6
If he has a solid 12Vd on the black wire to the CDI then it's not the kill switch or key switch. He needs to check the ground wire very well. That is correct, if he is getting 12v on the Black Wire on the CDI then it is NOT a killswitch. How are you testing the NO SPARK, Are you holding the SPARK PLUG ON The Motor or VALVE COVER? It could just be a BAD GROUND from the MOTOR to the FRAME. If the Ground from the motor to the frame is bad NO SPARK. A lot of folks test for no spark on the FRAME which is not correct, because the Battery is grounded to the frame so you may get a spark on the frame but NOT ON THE MOTOR. Alleyoop
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Post by JR on Jul 28, 2014 14:30:46 GMT -6
If the engine isn't grounded with a wire to the frame then it needs to be.
JR
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Post by Bashan on Jul 28, 2014 17:52:31 GMT -6
Yes Alley, you're right. Jack and I had talked earlier yesterday evening and he had mentioned the kill switch. He had subsequently changed direction on this. Harv's wiring has been a little confusing for me because initially I thought it was just like the wife's Puma. But there is something different about it and I'm trying to track it down. But yes, you are spot on correct as Jack is....my bad. Rich
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Post by epdowd on Jul 29, 2014 16:35:17 GMT -6
OK, Engine, Frame and Battery all have common ground. No spark when plug is grounded to the engine valve cover. What about the .3 vac on the blue and white pulse wire when cranked every thing in Run position ?. Could I have put the stator in wrong to cause no pulse ?. Like I mentioned it has two mounting holes so I can't see how it could be put in 180 deg. off. But that wouldn't explain my original problem.. Harv.
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Post by Bashan on Jul 29, 2014 17:47:39 GMT -6
No, that pulse is fine, it doesn't take much. OK, let's get this solved. 1. You have pulse signal to CDI...done. 2. We've determined it's a DC system right? So you have 12v DC at the two port on the black correct? So we have power to generate a spark and a trigger to initiate it. 3. Does the ground on the CDI have continuity or near zero ohms with the frame? If so we have a circuit path for the CDI. 4. Your kill function concerns me. I'm not sure how it's tied into the system. If you can expose the switch we can disable it and take it off of the table. 5. Here's one more test you can do right away if you like. Unhook the CDI to coil feed from the ignition coil. Set your multi to AC volts 100 max. Put one probe in the end of the coil feed wire and ground the other probe. Pull your spark plug out and crank the motor with key on and kill to run. See what voltage you get. If you get voltage run the same test with the kill set to stop. 6. Check ohms or continuity from the valve cover to frame.
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Post by epdowd on Jul 30, 2014 10:48:59 GMT -6
I hope the picture is ok. Four wires is the Kill Switch . Continuity from ground on the cdi to the frame is near 0. Coil feed wire to ground when cranked in RUN is .2 vac. " " " " won't crank STOP is 0 vac. I hope this makes sense... Holler at me if it doesn't !!! Thanks mucho for the help !!!,, and patience !!
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Post by Bashan on Jul 31, 2014 1:14:37 GMT -6
Thank you Harv, that's a great pic. That gives me something to chew on and we will get back to you tomorrow. I'll get the other guys to look at the config also. Just having glanced at it I think I got the wiring for the kill. Fear not, we will persevere. Rich
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Post by Bashan on Jul 31, 2014 21:36:39 GMT -6
Harv, I also need a pic of the front of your killswitch. Also the green/yellow wire, have you seen it bumping around anywhere? Please recheck a couple things for me. Just run a quick continuity from the black/white on the back of the kill to the black/white on the CDI. Then...on the back of the kill switch, put one probe on the solder bead for the black/white and one on the green solder bead, and test for continuity with the kill to run and the kill to stop. Thanks, Rich
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Post by epdowd on Aug 1, 2014 10:49:45 GMT -6
I have continuity on black/white wire from cdi to black and white wire on the kill switch. In RUN I have cont. from black and white to both green and yellow wires. In STOP I have no continuity from the black and white wire to the green and yellow wire on the left,(below green wire) but do have cont. to the green and yellow wire on the right. Thanks. Harv..
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Post by Bashan on Aug 1, 2014 12:35:20 GMT -6
Harv, is that pic of the back of your killswitch oriented correctly? I mean the top of the pic is the top of the kill? Because your start button is on the right in the bottome pic but the start button wires are on the right in the behind the switch pic. Also, do you see those yellow and green wires coming to the party anywhere? You said you DO NOT have a side stand switch right? When the kill switch is set to stop will it even turn over or is the starter dead in the water? Is there continuity from either green/yellow on the killswitch to the green/yellow on the start button?
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Post by Bashan on Aug 1, 2014 21:48:47 GMT -6
Coil feed wire to ground when cranked in RUN is .2 vac. Hold it! I just saw this. So you ran this with your multi set to AC up to 100v, put one probe in the coil feed, grounded the other, key on with 12v DC at black wire, cranked it, and got .2v AC!? If it was bad kill function that would be zero. It should be about 30v AC. That is woefully inadequate to make a spark. If your trigger voltage is good at the trigger port with kill set to run, you have 12v DC at the black with key on, the ground from CDI to frame is good, and the coil feed wire connection is OK, 90% probability it's your CDI. You have all the stuff going into the CDI but it's not coming out. Rich
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Post by epdowd on Aug 2, 2014 11:35:51 GMT -6
Rich,, I will go through the whole process again to re check and verify all my readings, etc. No loose or suspect wires have been found. Maybe we have an intermittent problem..It does look like the green wire from the stator may have been overheated. I'll get back to you today.. Thanks.. Harv..
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Post by Bashan on Aug 2, 2014 16:50:53 GMT -6
Harv, let me get you some testing diagrams so there's no confusion. Just give me an hour or so. Rich
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Post by Bashan on Aug 2, 2014 18:27:57 GMT -6
Harv let's keep this easy peasy so there's no confusion. First, if your stator green is roasted that's probably your problem. If not, do the following. Leave your killswitch set to run. Unplug your blue/white from the black/white (#1). Set your multi to AC voltage, very low range, like 5 to 10 if possible. One probe in the end of the wire, ground the other probe. Crank the motor with the plug out. What is the AC voltage, just list it as #1.
Next, unplug the coil feed from the coil (#2). Set your multi to AC voltage under 100. Put one probe in the end of the yellow/black and ground the other. Crank the engine with no sparkplug. What is the voltage? List as #2.
Unlpug the black wire from the CDI (#3). Set your multi to DC to under 50 or so. Put one probe in the end of the wire, ground the other, turn on the key, what do you get, list as #3.
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Post by epdowd on Aug 2, 2014 21:23:05 GMT -6
I'll get on it tomorrow. Thanks. Harv..
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