Brake Light Switch Helix clone By skunkhome (Read 1,457 times)

[Alleyoop]

The button switch should be right by the foot brake when you push the brake pedal some part of the break pedal should push the button down on the switch to pass 12volts to the brake lights.

[skunkhome]

According to the helix manual it is set up just like a motorcycle, not like an auto. I guess I just need to take off the belly skin. This dang bike is a wiring nightmare. Only 1400 miles but what a mess.

[Alleyoop]

Well if it is setup like a motorcycle then the switch is by the brake pedal which makes common sense since the button on the switch has to be pushed in to make contact and send 12volts to the lights. As a matter of fact that is how the brake switchs work on the hand grip, Some the button gets pushed in and on some the button comes out when the brake is applied, but inside all they do is pass the 12volts to the wire going back to the lights and the SOLENOID.
Alleyoop

[cyborg]

That was my point in my last post Alley he can start it with either brake,,,, so it's gotta be in the rear wiring or one of the plug pins got dislodged

[Alleyoop]

Yep, and since the wire going back to the lights and solenoid split and the SOLENOID works but no juice at the rear then JUST trace the wire from the Light Socket back and find the break that is what I would do.
Alleyoop

[skunkhome]

That is exactly what I think or either the yellow and green wire has a break in it somewhere between the switch and the light. I'm assuming the switch has power on the brake circuit since the engine cranks.

[cyborg]

How's about you run a new wire off the solenoid / brake lite feed ,, crack a beer and call it a deal?

[skunkhome]

Jun 7, 2015 20:38:14 GMT -6 cyborg said:

How's about you run a new wire off the solenoid / brake lite feed ,, crack a beer and call it a deal?

Have to find it first.  Had the running board off on the pedal side and did not see a switch.  



What you suggest is exactly what I did on the headlight and taillight because they were getting power from somewhere with the ignition switch off.  I pulled every fuse and they still would not go out if the battery was hooked up, so I cut the always hot leads and capped them off, then ran my own leaders from fused circuits behind the ignition switch.  It goes against my nature but was tired of trying to make sense of this "kabelsalat".  

[cyborg]

KABELSALAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dude theres a piston right there,,,,i almost pissed my pants when i read that!!!!,,,I'd be in there with a chain saw,,,Man i hate that kind of stuff!!!!,,,you know it's probably a real great bike when its running correctly,,,,thats the operative word WHEN,,,same with my vespa,,,the nagging nittly little problems drive you nuts,,,,it's get it rewired it's either chalk it up to experience,,,or get it running nicely and sell it before something else goes wrong,,,i know the feeling,,,i got mine running and dumped it,,,got a 4t stella and never looked back,,,altho i did have a similar problem to yours early on,,in it would lite up and run fine but had no power to anything,,,traced it down to the old timey glass fuse holder was intermittant,,,,it tested good till you tapped it with your finger then it would go on and off,,,changed it to a blade style ,,,,BAM!!!! no more gremlins,,,,HAPPY DAY!!!!!

[cyborg]

Not to hyjack the thread but you have one of those AC tractors??? like the one in your avatar?,,,,great little tractors,,,,very handy

[skunkhome]

Funny you should mention that AC Garden Tractor; it is my pride and joy but as I was using it yesterday and it was sitting there idling when all of a sudden the engine bogged down as if the PTO was engaged against a load. The tractor groaned to a stop. Engine would not crank even with clutch depressed so I knew that either the engine or bevel gear box had seized up. I dropped the drive shaft then tried the engine and it cranked normally and ran fine as frog hair. So the problem is in the Bevel Gear Box. It is not locked up tight but turns with great enough effort that it can stall an idling engine and lock up a starter. I have a theory that the cap screw that holds the drive gear on the input shaft has backed out and contacted the cross shaft, essentially creating a jack screw that tightened up the clearances. Only thing to do is either take the back cover off and see if I can see scarring on the cross shaft or split the tractor and pull the BGB out. I'm going to try pulling the back plate when I get a chance. Meanwhile my other tractor,  AC 916,  will take over the mowing duties. 




this thread is officially !

[cyborg]

Those little AC'S ARE AWESOME!!!!!! Ok I'll shut up now

[Guitarman]

I hope you don't have to take the skins off the tractor...

[skunkhome]

Jun 10, 2015 22:43:43 GMT -6 Guitarman said:

I hope you don't have to take the skins off the tractor...

To split her?  pretty much.