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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 19:40:27 GMT -6
Hey, I was wondering how your hand has healed up too ?! It's been a while, now.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 19:50:26 GMT -6
Well I have to tell you the RECTIFIER/REGULAR has SQUAT to do with the START BUTTON AND THE KILLSWITCH. The R/R handles taking AC voltage fed from the stator and converting it to DC for some of the lighting and charging the battery. So with that said the R/R does not come into the picture until the MOTOR IS RUNNING. So I suggest tracing the TWO GREEN ground wires and making sure they have a good ground:  |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 20:32:57 GMT -6
Ok. Good to know!
Good news is, my start switch is working. Not so good is, I dont get any spark!
Ok. So, does the previous option " OR you can make your own GROUND to the KILLSWITCH splice into the green wire and ground that wire and then both Start and Kill should work peachy keen." still stand ? Frankly, I don't really care if the "Stock" wires are bypassed . But, for my understanding, what do you say to the 39 and 46 readings that I get intermittently ? Should I understand those as measurements of resistance that, are supporting the indication of a poor ground ?
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 21:11:08 GMT -6
What have you got the meter set on? Normally the numbers would be like .? if good
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 21:12:30 GMT -6
To verify that the CDI IS NOT BEING GROUNDED you will need to take the BLACK/WHITE wire OFF on the CDI, TOP WIRE ON THE TWO PLUG , then check for spark.
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 21:26:09 GMT -6
Ok. I had plugged the CDI back in to check it. I'll re-do it. I am with you on that with the reading. So, I have tried it on the three lowest ohms settings, giving room for my not understanding the electrical realm and figuring I was not taking something into account. Right now, as I try to trace the green wires, I am getting .3 and such at the first position on the ohms setting. You may have missed my previous post with this pic   |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 21:32:52 GMT -6
.3 is good if you get nothing then it is open.
I don't know if you saw this video but it is a good one for finding which part of the no spark is the culprit.
0. Ground from motor to frame
1. plug
2. boot cap
3. coil
4. cdi
5. stator power
6. pick up coil
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 21:38:41 GMT -6
Thank you! I did as you said, removed the BW wire and tried again. GOOD STRONG BLUE SPARK! There's a party at OliverTwisteds house right now!
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 21:42:41 GMT -6
WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAWHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!! GREAT NEWS that means the KILLSWITCH or the KEY is grounding out the CDI. Much easier to fix than buying parts  |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 21:49:28 GMT -6
LOLOLOL!!! LMBO!!!!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 22:00:41 GMT -6
I hardly ever want to have a drink , even to toast. But I keep beers here for my brother and decided after that video to bust one open! Lol! Thanks, for the party! I needed one !
I was tempted to but didn't christen the bike with it! CHEERS!
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 22:03:13 GMT -6
Hey you wanted a PARTA  Well it is late here so you now just need to fix the Grounding of the CDI either the KEY or the KILLSWITCH it is one of those two that will ground out the CDI and create a NO SPARK. Alleyoop |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 22:12:16 GMT -6
Ok. Thank you. Im reading up and using the tests in the PDF you had linked me to some posts ago. Have a good night Alleyoop ! |
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 22:19:32 GMT -6
My tracking shows that my new switches should be here tomorrow Monday, also |
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Post by cyborg on Feb 29, 2016 8:43:07 GMT -6
But does it lite?
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
