No start. No anything. By olivertwisted (Read 9,142 times)

[olivertwisted]

Ok, on the spark test. Of course, it will need to wait while the battery charges. I'll need to be more aware of the state of that battery! I really didn't think it would run down this quickly, while just testing.

[Alleyoop]

Great on the kill switch flicking to the right should then break ground. Same with KEY on it breaks ground and with key off continuity on the black/white.

[olivertwisted]

Here's what I get with the battery contacts clamped closed.

Key OFF, RUN position = Continuity at the switch and the frame.
Key OFF , KILL position = Continuity at the switch and the frame.

So, right away, I'm not "Breaking the ground" when I flick the kill switch to the right.

[olivertwisted]

And with the KEY to "On" I still get continuity in the kill position OR run position. It's grounding, no matter what.
So, this switch is "Grounding out" ? Is a bad switch, I gather.

[Alleyoop]

The switch has TWO CONTACTS one contact goes to ground the other is the BLACK/WHITE WIRE which goes to the CDI.

Test the two contacts on the switch IN ONE POSITION no CONTINUITY between the two contacts(KILL OFF)
flicking the switch should make contact with both which would be (KILL ON) grounding the CDI.

[olivertwisted]

OH! Lol! Ok. Ill try that!

[Alleyoop]

The killswitch is just like the START BUTTON one is ground and the other goes to the CDI to ground it.

[olivertwisted]

I'm sorry Alley. I think I'm on overload tonight. I can't concentrate well at the moment I think because, I have my relatives blowing up my phone about the medical issue I was helping out with, the last two days , on top of my being a lame brain with electrical circuits Perhaps, I will be clearer tomorrow . Know that, I am so glad for you being such a help to me . I would never be able to figure this out without you. I'm SURE that's obvious!!! LOL!

[Alleyoop]

Not a problem, take a break the scoot will still be there tomorrow the next day next week whatever.
The hardest part has been done and you have resurrected a rust bucket into something into looking brand new.
I check almost everyday for new questions and or issues with their rides and I will check your thread as well for any updates not to worry.
Alleyoop

[olivertwisted]

Thank you much! I'm sure I'll be back on the horse tomorrow Just lots of extra stuff has been going on the last few days. Today, it's just one of those days the phone won't shut up when ya need 2 more hands then ya already have

[Alleyoop]

Ok, i looked at your START BUTTON and the KILLSWITCH. Here is how they are hooked up.

The START BUTTON GROUND WIRE IS the GREEN/WHITE WIRE. That goes and Uses the KILLSWITCH GROUND. That is why the KILLSWITCH HAS THREE CONNECTORS and 3 CONTACTS. And yes moving the KILLSWITCH TO THE LEFT GROUNDS the CDI and kills the motor.

So trace the GREEN WIRE ON THE KILLSWITCH that is the GROUND FOR BOTH START BUTTON AND KILLSWITCH OR you can make your own GROUND to the KILLSWITCH splice into the green wire and ground that wire and then both Start and Kill should work peachy keen.
Alleyoop

[olivertwisted]

Thank you so much, Alleyoop !

The makers of my battery replied to me having asked about how they would have me deep charge it but you answered me first so I went with your answer. They doubted that my battery would take a charge after discharging completely but, it did, Hooray! I also went yesterday and purchased a float/maintenance charger and just got that hard wired on for quick connect. Now, I can run the battery without worry. I also bought the D/C operated impact wrench to carry onboard, from HF that jerryscript recommended about a year ago. I got it with a coupon for $20 !That'll suit me better than the variator tool in ANY situation plus, I've needed one before and never had one.

Regarding my switches, in case these particulars change anything, my killswitch only has 2 of these connectors on it as opposed to 3 but, between those two , all of the wires inserted between those 2 do occupy 3 different parallel contact spaces.

OH NO! LOOK WHAT I JUST SPOTTED!!!
Here is my photo of the switch before I ever took it off of the bike




And here it is, NOW....



I'm SURE you see it right away. No WONDER my readings made no sense at all!

[Alleyoop]

HAHAHA, looks like spider man was also living in there as well

[olivertwisted]

You know, Alley, I'm still getting readings such as 46 or 39 on my meter when I am testing for continuous ground and I have even opened a brand new meter to still get those kinds of readings. I've tried disconnecting the ground that I rigged for the start switch and replacing everything to stock also. Nothing is ever making any sense. A shot in the dark...Would you have a look at the wire splicing that I did for the rectifier and check that the wiring looks correct? Remember that the replacement rectifier was wired differently than my original ? I plugged them together in correspondence to the way the old and new plugs inserted to each other. Perhaps, you will see a problem there with the way something is grounding? Could anything there have to do with the strange ? I'm really hoping that it isn't ALL just me although,it may be! lol! Gosh, I wish I was sharper on this subject. I hope I haven't made ya sorry for ever jumping in to help. I'm just trying to make sense of the insanity that I'm experiencing with these readings but, if I'm totally way off the mark with the idea, please tell me to just forget it, lol!

Here is that original thread with pics of the two rectifiers... Rectifiers post

And, the wires plugged...

[olivertwisted]

LOLOL! I found SEVERAL spiders living in there!