50cc with a 150cc boar kit in it might need a new carb By loydmstewart (Read 3,650 times)

[loydmstewart]

When I screw the fuel screw in all the way should I do thear same for the idle screw in other words show I screw it all the way down till it stops?

[Alleyoop]

NO, what we are trying to do is see if adjusting the FUEL MIXTURE screw out 2 full turns from the closed position and covering the air intake it will suck in some fuel in and the motor will start.

The Idle speed screw MAY NOT be opening up enough to allow fuel from the tiny pilot jet outlets to come out.

SO the IDLE SPEED SCREW only turn it CLOCKWISE 1/16 of an inch it does not take much for that screw.
Alleyoop

[loydmstewart]

May 3, 2016 18:29:50 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

NO, what we are trying to do is see if adjusting the FUEL MIXTURE screw out 2 full turns from the closed position and covering the air intake it will suck in some fuel in and the motor will start.

The Idle speed screw MAY NOT be opening up enough to allow fuel from the tiny pilot jet outlets to come out.

SO the IDLE SPEED SCREW only turn it CLOCKWISE 1/16 of an inch it does not take much for that screw.
Alleyoop

Well hopefully I didn't screw anything up because before you told me that I was tinkering with the idle screw in didn't turn it much maybe 2 or 3 turns

[Alleyoop]

I told you what to do on POST 125 previous page. You do not follow instructions very well do you. You cause more problems for yourself by not doing what your told. You go and mess around with other things.
turning it 2 or 3 turns means a lot.

BUT DO NOT TOUCH THAT SCREW right now LISTEN UP OK, THE FUEL RATIO SCREW turn it closkwise until it stops and then COUNTER CLOCKWISE 2 full turns. It maybe now the IDLE is to open now that you messed with it.

[czmdiver]

May 3, 2016 17:26:32 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

It will pop only maybe once or twice bro but will not stay running If that is all it took then covering the air intake with his hand would of popped it off. You gots to know this stuff and how it works not just throw balls at it and hope one sticks

Im well aware that it will Not stay running. laugh at yourself , unreal dude 
you don't even have to pull the dmn plug to see if it has spark cuz it Popped on Ether.
You love to continue the Insults of anyone that has a clue.

[Alleyoop]

Sorry Bro but you are clueless about this stuff. And yes I will insult anyone that comes on and being a smart arse and just leave.

YOU BELIEVE YOU HAVE CLUES GOOD, YOU WANT TO TAKE OVER AND FIX THIS GUY AND GET HIS SCOOTER RUNNING!!!
YES OR NO
I will go and help someone else.

[2stroked]

Try to put the idle screw back WHERE IT WAS FROM THE FACTORY.

When you turn the mixture screw all the way in, dobit gently, don't tighten it all they way down like a loose screw, to could hurt the seat and needle.


Start like Alleyoop said. After turning the mixture screw all the way in, back it out one to one and a half turns, then try to start the bike.

YOU WILL NEED SOMEKIND OF AIR FILTER OR AIR BOX ATTACHED TO THE CARB
Otherwise you will be pulling in too much air.TOI MUCH AIR IS NOT GOOD. Without a filter or air box, your engine will be a bear to tune right. If you plan on using a Uni filter or an open filter or whatever, it needs to be attached while you are tuning the motor otherwise, it's going to need to be adjusted again when you put the filter on it.

[loydmstewart]

May 3, 2016 19:46:31 GMT -6 2stroked said:

Try to put the idle screw back WHERE IT WAS FROM THE FACTORY.

When you turn the mixture screw all the way in, dobit gently, don't tighten it all they way down like a loose screw, to could hurt the seat and needle.


Start like Alleyoop said. After turning the mixture screw all the way in, back it out one to one and a half turns, then try to start the bike.

YOU WILL NEED SOMEKIND OF AIR FILTER OR AIR BOX ATTACHED TO THE CARB
Otherwise you will be pulling in too much air.TOI MUCH AIR IS NOT GOOD. Without a filter or air box, your engine will be a bear to tune right. If you plan on using a Uni filter or an open filter or whatever, it needs to be attached while you are tuning the motor otherwise, it's going to need to be adjusted again when you put the filter on it.

I believe the factory setting was all the way down

[Alleyoop]

NO, factory setting was not or is not all the way down. That would open all the pilot jets tiny outlets and the idle would be way to high around 3000+ rpms.
The Pilot jets fuel outlets are usually 4 tiny pinholes by the butterfly. As you turn the IDLE SPEED screw it uncovers more of the 4 outlet allowing more fuel to be sucked out and you get a higher idle. Exposing all 4 at one time the idle will be 3000+ rpms and that is not save for starting.

[Alleyoop]

In your video I saw another carb, check the idle speed screw on that one by LOOKING INTO THE THROAT at the tiny outlets and then unscrew the IDLE SCREW so it JUST TOUCHES the FLAT part of the CONTROL WHEEL then turn the idle speed screw just enough to expose the 1st tiny fuel outlet. THEN DO the same amount on the carb on your motor to be at least close.

[loydmstewart]

May 3, 2016 20:24:04 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

NO, factory setting was not or is not all the way down. That would open all the pilot jets tiny outlets and the idle would be way to high around 3000+ rpms.
The Pilot jets fuel outlets are usually 4 tiny pinholes by the butterfly. As you turn the IDLE SPEED screw it uncovers more of the 4 outlet allowing more fuel to be sucked out and you get a higher idle. Exposing all 4 at one time the idle will be 3000+ rpms and that is not save for starting.

I'll try 2 or 3 turns than I'll snap a pic irs that'll help

[2stroked]

When you are looking down the intake end of the carb, the butterfly should test near closed, with the first pilot hole exposed,and enough gap for air.

[loydmstewart]

Should it look like this. This is the old carburetor

[2stroked]

It's kinda hard to see things clearly in that pic. The picture that Alley posted shows the proper angle of the butterfly in an idle position. I would think, that as long as one of the pilot hole are uncovered that would be a great place to start.


Do you know what size and type of carb you are using. I only ask cuz of the large cylinder you have installed right now. I am not sure about the small 4t motors, but on a 50cc 2t, throwing a 72cc BBK on it, just changing the jets is good. Then again, a kit that large might NEED a larger than normal carb.

[2stroked]

First of all, Alleyoop has been dead on from the first post. You are able to tell the people that want to help from the trolls quite easily. If it's good information that makes sense and isn't smart arse redderick then listen to that person. If it's smart arse bull stuff that makes no sense and sounds dangerous or nonsensical don't listen.


With any problem thread on any forum you will find arse hats that just want to confuse and anger the OP for their own amusement. Darned trolls.

If it feels like someone is losing their patience, it is because they expect you to follow the suggestion s they give exactly, with out skipping or adding steps. If you do something that someone didn't tell you to and you don't mention doing it, it makes it harder for us to be able to help you. If, for instance, someone tells you to adjust the mixture screw, and you do adjust it, but along the way you also adjust the idle screw all the way in or out, it hurts the diagnoses. I ain't trying to be one of those arse hats, just trying to help steer you down the right path. When diagnosing, or tuning these engines, it is important to only change or adjust one thing at a time. If that doesn't work, move to the next item. See, if you go to do one thing, and end up doing two things, and it doesn't start, which thing is causing it to not start, thing one or thing two. See, simplicity...that's what we are after. Well that and helping you get back on two wheels.

Let us know how it goes