Clinician
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Post by dennisd on Oct 13, 2010 15:55:26 GMT -6
Tell us how you would recommend adjusting valves on a 244 helix clone...
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Post by jrryan on Oct 15, 2010 6:06:57 GMT -6
There is no debate, most do it like this with engine running so it better get warm running or there's a problem! scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=power&action=display&thread=447If you want to do it the old fashion way with the engine not running and with feeler gauges it needs to be cold. With either adjustment the only real issue is getting access like on most all scooters. I have the linhais and it's only downfall IMO is the fact of the ONLY way to adjust the valves is cold and getting all the junk out of the way. I would kill to be able to adjust the valves with the engine running and it taking about 10 minutes and even though valve adjusting is something that gets blown way out of porportion it's still IMO a no brainer to do it the engine warm and running way. The reason I say it gets blown way out of porportion is it's not something one has to do very often so why make such a deal out of it IMO. Dr. JR
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Senior Clinician
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Yoster aka "Matt"
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Post by yoster on Oct 15, 2010 10:47:34 GMT -6
Warm. It takes no time at all.
Same engine, just on a buggy:
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Senior Clinician
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Petrolhead, tinkler, but I love to mess around in my garage.
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Post by scootaway on Oct 15, 2010 11:19:46 GMT -6
Well on the Helix clone you don't need feeler gauges of course. My view is that with the hot engine running method, an inexperienced mechanic might not know when he's hearing enough tappet or not hearing it at all. So an inexperienced person should in my view use the cold method as it is probably safer.
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Post by Alleyoop on Oct 15, 2010 12:43:06 GMT -6
Scootaway, Very good point about hearing the tappets. I personally like to hear a little TICKY TICKY, then I know they are not tight and not to loose. After some miles the Ticky Ticky will start to get fainter and fainter. Alleyoop
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Senior Clinician
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Petrolhead, tinkler, but I love to mess around in my garage.
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Post by scootaway on Oct 16, 2010 12:29:22 GMT -6
Alleyoop you right. The problem is however how much ticky ticky must you hear? When is enough... enough? If you can get it spot-on the extra performance is there to find. The smaller the gap the higher the lift of the valve but with the danger of burning the valve and the bigger the gap the safer it is for the valve but you loose on lift, less charge goes in and some damage eventually to the cam.
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Clinician
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Post by barry on Oct 21, 2010 10:04:56 GMT -6
Please explain how to get into that little space under the seat to adjust the valve's..? I can see half of one but the other one (to the left) would have to be all feel cause I can barley see it. Do you guys hire small children or get your wife's to do it..? I just don't get it. I should take pictures of the little cuts and scrapes on my hands from trying to force them into the little hole.
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Senior Clinician
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Petrolhead, tinkler, but I love to mess around in my garage.
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Post by scootaway on Oct 23, 2010 11:35:14 GMT -6
Barry taking the seat off will help but I do mine from behind where the airbox is (my airbox is removed) I undo them one at a time then I use my right arm (hand) from the side and watching from the top and then tightening from the top. If you have big hands I suggest do it the cold method where you bring the engine to top dead center on firing stroke and then its better because no heat no vibrations just take your time.
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