Clinician
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Post by case on Jun 14, 2013 14:44:02 GMT -6
Yes it seems dc but it runs with no battery and that is an indication that it is ac. I guess we will call it dc with ac benifits. I have some numbers. when cranking the coil hotwire reads 1.33 when the old coil is in and i crank/no reading from coil output replace coil from 50cc and i get .09 reading old coil back in, no readings....it is my feeling now that the 50cc coil is operational but does not have it inside to pump out the 1.5 it needs to fire. sorry for being wishy washy but i think we can nail it down. Is there a universal coil from napa i can use?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2013 16:37:19 GMT -6
What about the cut wire on the CDI plug? On a DC CDI you don't always have a KILL switch ground, they sometimes just switch off the power. Minimal in a DC CDI is 4 wires...power, coil, ground, trigger.
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Clinician
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Post by case on Jun 14, 2013 18:46:35 GMT -6
I reattached that wire for testing purposes. The ignition was torn apart/ cleaned the copper diode thing that grounds everything together....if the diode isnt working properly it wont fire....ran into this along time ago on a cbr900...thing would not fire unless the copper diode was connected correctly..rigging that now, i think it may be the problem. The dci gets power from the black ignition wire. Can I still clip the b/w to the cdi to prevent the kill from stopping spark? this thing had anti theft crap all the way down to the diode and fakie wire in the ignition hmmmm it wont be long before they wire in a 100ohm resitor. thanks guys.
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Clinician
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Post by case on Jun 14, 2013 19:16:13 GMT -6
Here is the pic of the ignition diode (wrong term?) anyway, as it turns on the power it looks like it grounds the cdi. It is now my opnion this got wet causing spark to arc and kill the cdi I have cleaned it and dryed it, without all these circuits in the right place the engine wont deliver spark...i think. at least thats the way honda makes it, this looks like a clone of a cbr900rr ignition. more testing tomorrow, if i never get it running i did learn alot about electrics. thanks again/great forum Attachments:
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 14, 2013 19:48:59 GMT -6
That could very well be, water may have shorted something out. And yes if the CDI has the BLACK AND WHITE WIRE on the TOP of the 2 PLUG that is your KILLWIRE so you can stick a little screwdriver in there hold the little clip inside open and pull the wire off it connector without having to cut it Or you can cut the wire LEAVING at least 1 inch or more to be able to splice it back together if you want. Or you can put on a male and female conncector and you can then disconnect and disconnect anytime you suspect the CDI is being grounded causing no spark. Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by case on Jun 15, 2013 7:20:16 GMT -6
The diode is now powering the ignition. A coupleof questions today. 1. Can I cut the black and white wire to the cdi if it is in the 4 plug location? The black wire sends current so idk. 2. There are 4 wires that go to the killswitch and starter button......how do I arrange these so it will fire? yellow/red. and green ..goes to button and Brown and black wire went to killswitch......the green and y/r touching should send current to startter, but it only cranks over when i combine brown and black and touch them to y/r while green is just open.... going thru fuses like mad. please help googling now but cant figure it out brahs
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Clinician
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Post by case on Jun 15, 2013 8:06:31 GMT -6
There was also a green and yellow wire completely disconnected from the pin going into to harness as far as i can tell its the brake light wire.....if that wasnt connected the saftety switch wont work. more problems
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Post by case on Jun 15, 2013 9:36:28 GMT -6
VROOOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!!! it fired !!!!!!! some notes. 1. the diode in the ignition needs to be hooked up and not grounding thru water or grime (see attached pic) 2. The cdi kill wire on a dc ignition (this model) cannot be cut or the engine will NOT fire. 3. There was a common ground loose from pin in connector. It runs and fires first time. I have having some "surge" when idling, it will idle up and down if you have any thoughts on that i appreciate it before i go googling Let me say thanks to evryone on here that helped. It is a great feeling when aweek of hard work results in the engine running!!! I hope i can give back a little with more experience !!!!!!!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2013 12:46:39 GMT -6
Does the surging clear up after the engine is warmed up?
If not, try your idle mixture screw, turn it 1/4 turn at a time and wait 10 seconds between turns. Count the turns so you know where you started. Check for air leaks in the entire air intake system. GOOD JOB!!!
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Post by case on Jun 15, 2013 15:53:54 GMT -6
Thanks DW and the rest of you guys, I havent let the bike warm up more than 5min. I need to button it all up and do some future water protection. (tape) I plan to have the start on a button on handlebars, a cdi kill button hidden, a 12 bar, racing cdi and coil, drill the baffle, and pod the intake. I may add crash protection and or pegs as well and paint and bodywork. When I pulled the airbox it was all wet and grimy filter is old and clogged up, air intake hose is broken and taped, so i have some reworking to do as well. (rason for surging) anyway... After some tuning and some mods I hope to make it streetable/stuntable beach cruiser. I will add pics as I get it modded... CASE CLOSED thanks again
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