Help wiring an electric start By caz (Read 1,884 times)

[caz]

Hello everyone.
I recently boughten very cheap and very scruffy chinese 50cc scooter.
I have replaced many parts and have it running fairly well. The electric start hasn't worked at all and I think it has been disconnected. I've been kicking it but the kick isn't really working well now. The scooter still runs if I jump the starter solenoid with a screw driver but I'd like to not have to do that in the middle of the street.
Could anyone advise me on where to run the wires from the starter button to please? Or maybe point me to a diagram that is easy to understand. Thanks very much for any input!
Caz

[kz1000st]

Dude. it starts when you jump the solenoid? Bad brake switch on the rear brake lever. When you squeeze the brakes does the tail light go on? Try squeezing both levers and hit the starter button and see what happens.

[caz]

Tail light and brake light work properly when using the back brake. I'm waiting for a new front brake to arrive. It isn't currently connected. You think it could be that simple?

[kz1000st]

Yes. If you squeeze the front brake does the rear light go on? Try the starter if it does.

[caz]

No, it doesn't do anything.. I will take a look at it. The guy who had it before me had it disconnected because it leaks brake fluid. Thanks.

[mikey34]

What kz is referring to, is a little BLACK PUSH BUTTON SWITCH.

SOMETHING like this ^

IT WILL BE ON BOTH BRAKE LEVERS, ACTUALLY ON THE HANDLE BAR, BUT BY BRAKE LEVER, IN THIS PIC, IT IS NUMBER 4.

[Bashan]

Man, that's dangerous asking about a diagram around me. This one shows the basic concept. The brake circuit has to be energized as KZ pointed out. The starter button simply grounds the solenoid actuator circuit:

That lifts the armature and connects the battery to the starter. You don't have to have the brake circuit involved if you don't want to. Just wire 12v DC to the small wires on the solenoid and hook it to a switch or button. The pull in the brake deal is a safety feature so you don't inadvertently activate the starter. I've had the solenoid wired to a switch many times and never had a problem. Here's a tutorial on testing the starter system that may help. Here's a generic wiring diagram for a 150 that may also help.

[mikey34]

Awesome Diagram Bashan! I may steal this one!

[Alleyoop]

Ok if the solenoid spins the starter when jumped your battery is fine.
Now follow the wires coming out of the Solenoid and at the end of it should be a PLUG that plugs into another connector. If it is connected and the stop light comes on when you squeeze the good brake handle then only two possible things.
1. The solenoid is bad
2. The push start button is NOT grounding the solenoid.


To test the Ground or Voltage to the Solenoid all you need is a cheap 12v Light tester.
1. Tape the brake on
2. Clip the black lead of the 12v Light Tester to the battery negative post
TEST FOR VOLTAGE TO SOLENOID:
a. probe the yellow/green wire if juice is present it will light.

TEST FOR GROUND FAULT:
a. probe the ground wire going into the Solenoid usually green if it spins the starter it is the PUSH START BUTTON or the ground wire is broke or not connected or the start button is not making contact.

C. If you get to here it is a BAD SOLENOID.





Alleyoop

[FrankenMech]

Nov 14, 2013 10:51:08 GMT -6 Bashan said:

No, no, no, you have the arrows going the wrong way. Current (electrons) travel from negative to positive. Just a small point clarified by chemists a long time ago.

I know, I know, I'm banned.... ;D

Actually there are several ways to hook the system up but the one above works. Some scoots have switches on the side or center stand also for safety.

[Alleyoop]

Yes but those safety switch's only effect the spark not the actual spinning of the starter, which is he current problem. ;D
Alleyoop

[Bashan]

Nov 14, 2013 21:44:00 GMT -6 FrankenMech said:

Current (electrons) travel from negative to positive.

You are correct my bolt necked friend, electrons are negative and flow to the oppositely charged positive terminal. However, there are three schools of thought on electron flow nomenclature: conventional (aka Franklin), negative current (aka Edison), and electromagnetic.

• Franklin is based on the erroneous beliefs that came from early electrical experiments that positive was a surplus that flowed to negative. This is in fact wrong (sorry Ben) but the nomenclature and notation had worked it's way into our culture and was adopted by most authorities. Among the adherents of this method are electrical engineers because it's easier to conceptualize the function of a circuit.
  
• Edison nomenclature denotes the actual movement of electrons from negative to positive. This is the correct concept and is used by physicists.
  
• Electromagnetic deals with lines of force in a magnetic field and......lets not go there right now, my brain hurts.
  

I have tried to use the Edison method in the past and it just seemed to confuse the issues. Folks on the forum seem more comfortable with old Ben so that's what I do even though I know it's technically incorrect.

Listen Frankenpal, I would never ban somebody because they disagree with me or point out something that they think is wrong. Here, read this message that one of my sycophants is delivering to you:

[Alleyoop]

JEEPERS CREEPERS WHERE DID YOU GET ALL THOSE ARROWS:

which way do they go
Alleyoop

[kz1000st]

If absolute worst came to worse Caz, all you'd have to do is buy a cheap electric push button, connect both wires to the solenoid connections and voila, you're in business.

[jct842]

Nov 14, 2013 9:30:56 GMT -6 caz said:

No, it doesn't do anything.. I will take a look at it. The guy who had it before me had it disconnected because it leaks brake fluid. Thanks.

fix the brakes before you kill your self