Clinician
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Post by pryce on Jan 27, 2014 12:30:52 GMT -6
I have a SSR Metro 150. I just replaced the GY6 engine and upon start up, the front, rear, and meter lights all went really bright and blew. I've checked the voltage coming off the yellow wire stator and it is ~14 VAC at idle and ~40 VAC revved up. The battery charging voltage is within rang of being charged. Does anyone know what the voltage of the yellow wire should be?
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 27, 2014 17:06:52 GMT -6
Compare the position of the yellow and white wires in the stator plug from old and new engine.
John
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Post by Bashan on Jan 28, 2014 3:58:59 GMT -6
I would check the voltages on the yellow and white wires at the rectifier/regulator. The yellow and white wire on a four port GY6 R/R should be around 12v AC while everything is hooked up and the engine running. If the yellow is indeed 40v AC the Zener diodes in your R/R are toast. Now, is there a problem that would cause it to roast another R/R when the engine is running? Possibly, yes, but check the voltages on the yellow and white and get back to us. To Test: ground the black lead of your multi and touch the other to an exposed portion of the wire you wish to test. You can usually find an access point near the R/R. If you did everything right and the voltage readings are still in the stratosphere you should order a new R/R from TVnACman. He has an unusual concept in that he tests the components he sells prior to shipping. John is a good guy, he could help you find an R/R if need be and he won't rip you off. Rich
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Scooter Doc
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Post by FACE PLANT FOR LIFE on Jan 28, 2014 10:57:10 GMT -6
I thought I'd drop by and give my insight on this.
Indeed, your R/R is more than likely blown, causing the extreme amounts of voltage to get to your lights. To the best of my knowledge R/R's don't usually just "fail", but with anything, they can.
In the case where I wasn't getting almost any voltage to my battery about a year ago, I had a wire connected in the wrong place, ultimately blowing the R/R's I was receiving from TVnACman. Blowing them so much, that I began to get negative voltage to my battery (whoa!).
So if I were you, the first thing I would do is VERIFY ALL your wiring, and make sure it's all going to the RIGHT place. After I rectified that issue, I was getting power to my battery and all was (mostly) well.
Unfortunately all R/R's are different, so they have a tendency to give off different voltages to different things. You can have R/R's with a lot of battery charge but no lights, and vice versa. You might have to go through a few of them to find the perfect one, but I don't think TVnACman will let that happen to you, because he tests his R/R's and sends the one you need to you!
TL;DR? Verify your wiring, and then replace the R/R.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 28, 2014 11:29:02 GMT -6
Show me a picture of your regulator plugged in, so I can see the wire colors and position.
John
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Post by FACE PLANT FOR LIFE on Jan 28, 2014 11:30:48 GMT -6
Holy moly, John, that was a quadruple post!  |
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 28, 2014 11:30:56 GMT -6
Show me a picture of your regulator plugged in, so I can see the wire colors and position.
John
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 28, 2014 11:32:58 GMT -6
My phone is wiggin
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 28, 2014 11:33:46 GMT -6
My phone is wiggin
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Post by FACE PLANT FOR LIFE on Jan 28, 2014 12:25:02 GMT -6
...?!?! What do you call 6 posts in a row that are the same? o.O Better get an exorcism on that phone, John!
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 28, 2014 17:33:16 GMT -6
HAHAHA, I cleaned up the dupes
Alleyoop
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 28, 2014 18:51:27 GMT -6
sometimes the 4G comes and goes I get a proboards error , I click the back button . Then wait and resend sometimes I have to retry . I think I get the error and my reply is posted and I don't know it .
John
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Post by pryce on Jan 28, 2014 22:58:10 GMT -6
So the voltage from the yellow wire is around 20 VAC idling and on the white wire it is 6VAC idling. I've tried switching the white and yellow wires, but the yellow wire will then only give off 400 mVAC (milivolt) and then randomly jump up to 6 VAC. My regulator looks like such:1=red, 2=Yellow, 3=white, 4=green ___ ___| |___ |-(1) -(2)| |-(3) -(4)| ------------- sorry, Its too dark right now to take a picture. -_- with the regulator unplugged, the white wire is getting 50-60 VAC idle and the yellow is getting 22 VAC. From the R/R to the battery at idle, i'm getting 10.10 VDC. That is because my battery is pretty much dead, it won't even crank so i kick start it, i think the battery is sitting at 9.8 VDC with the engine off. I also tried getting another regulator but that one got really hot and started melting. I only ran it for about 1 minute, so i was guessing that was definitely the wrong one. I still need to look at the wiring to make sure it is all correct, which it should be because when pulling off the engine, i only had to disconnect the engine ground, starter, and stator wiring. The original engine had 8 coils and i'm pretty sure this engine has 8 coils on the stator, but that is unconfirmed as of right now due to not having a flywheel puller  |
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Post by Alleyoop on Jan 28, 2014 23:19:49 GMT -6
So your R/R is like this: Alleyoop  |
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Post by pryce on Jan 29, 2014 0:00:37 GMT -6
yep thats the one, and after looking at the diagram, I'm not totally sure if the green wire grounds inside the stator which might be where my problem originates. So i might just have to run a ground wire directly to the R/R and the stator and possibly order a new stator after that. what do you think?
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
