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Post by Bashan on Feb 4, 2014 13:18:04 GMT -6
Hey, I'm not trying to be snotty,
but how are you going to hook up a 5 wire R/R when you only have four wires to hook into it?
And I'm sorry, but I think it's your stator. Installed a new engine with stator and the lights blew when you first cranked it. What are the chances of the R/R going bad on the maiden start up? So what kind of voltages did you get on the stator?
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 4, 2014 14:30:38 GMT -6
Hey, I'm not trying to be snotty,
but how are you going to hook up a 5 wire R/R when you only have four wires to hook into it?
And I'm sorry, but I think it's your stator. Installed a new engine with stator and the lights blew when you first cranked it. What are the chances of the R/R going bad on the maiden start up? So what kind of voltages did you get on the stator? Pick a winner !!!! It can be done replacing 4pin for 5pin you just need to know what the 5th wire does and how the ac regulator side works if there is an ac regulator in that package . John
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 4, 2014 14:48:37 GMT -6
Been saying all along need to take the flywheel off and see where each wire on the stator go to pretty simple. But guessing and possibly frying a part or two and wasting more time and money. Alleyoop
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 4, 2014 14:56:11 GMT -6
Al , we all have our own way . I think he is still figuring out the way he wants to go with this . I spoke to him last night over the phone . I suggested one of my tested 4pin regulators , he showed interest in the 11pole 7pin conversion .
John
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Post by pryce on Feb 4, 2014 15:01:32 GMT -6
I'm still waiting for the flywheel puller to swap out with my old stator and see if it makes a difference before i do too many drastic changes... supposed to be here this week... As for voltages, i'm still getting 20VAC on the yellow, 20-30VAC on the white, 70-90VAC on the red/black, without the R/R plugged in and just at idle, which all seems to be normal right?
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 4, 2014 15:04:35 GMT -6
That is next to text book perfect .
John
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 4, 2014 15:14:43 GMT -6
okie-dokie
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Post by Bashan on Feb 5, 2014 1:09:20 GMT -6
I must disagree on the 5 wire R/R cobbled together for the 4 wire application. I called an electrical engineer friend of mine and he harkened back to the water metaphor. Everything inside a R/R is connected. If you leave one wire off or tie a couple together it pushes electrons in directions not intended in the original design. Electrons are physical entities, not some ethereal, wispy figment of someone's imagination. They ebb and flow and go where they're pushed and to the path of least resistance. I ran an FLP R/R an entire summer with the yellow capped and used the white to charge a battery that powered the whole bike on DC. Rapid Jim said "well this will be interesting, I've did worse." The FLP kept it together all summer but it got hot, not kinda hot, HOT! It still works to this day but skitters to the back of the shelf when it sees me coming. I hooked a "universal" R/R up in an atypical manner and it lasted one microsecond into the summer. I ended up taking the center tap off of a Bashan stator and running it DC on a Trail Tech R/R. By the way, those guys at Trail Tech are really nice. They probably made ten bucks off of me and spent $500.00 worth of time......nice people. But if you want to hook up an R/R atypical for some reason I'll be watching. Why not find the answer as to why this system isn't working right instead of using components in atypical ways? We had a guy about two years ago have an overcharge situation on his GY6 stator only when he cranked the RPMs. That thing was shooting out lightening in every direction. So be careful, they can do that. By the way, John is an electrician for the city of New York and caused the great northeast blackout of 2003 with a non insulated screwdriver. He keeps his job through the virtue of embarrassing pix involving the Mayor on a scooter.
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Post by pryce on Feb 6, 2014 16:54:02 GMT -6
Ok, so my flywheel puller came and I just removed the stators anyone wanna help me post the pictures seeing as last time it failed.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 6, 2014 17:04:30 GMT -6
You can use PHOTOBUCKET it is free sign up and then upload your pictures. Then after they are loaded go to share and links then go down to the 2nd from the bottom link IMG one and click on it it will copy the link then come here and paste it. Alleyoop
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 6, 2014 17:19:41 GMT -6
text or email it to me I will post it for you .
John
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Post by pryce on Feb 6, 2014 17:45:25 GMT -6
Picture of stators Front Picture of stators rear
There are links to the pictures. The stator on top is the one from the old engine, that everything worked great on. The stator on the bottom is from the new engine that was causing all kinds of problems. After i switched them out guess what happened... i got 12 - 14 VAC on the yellow wire and, my charging voltage is 13 - 14 VDC... OMG its like voodoo lol. please look at the pictures and tell me the difference, immediately i was able to spot a big difference, the location of the green wire. Problem solved, thank you guys for helping me out and for now, can anyone help me to match a R/R to this stator so that i have a back up stator just in case anything bad were to happen?
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Post by pryce on Feb 6, 2014 17:48:39 GMT -6
Oh, Also, the original R/R works perfectly again, so that was never broke, just miss matched. lol
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 6, 2014 18:00:38 GMT -6
Hey, I'm not trying to be snotty,
But
Good job Man Alleyoop
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Post by tvnacman on Feb 6, 2014 18:01:22 GMT -6
seems like the ground does not connect to the coils , beyond that I would have to have them in my hand .
John
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