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Post by Bashan on Mar 8, 2014 5:56:13 GMT -6
stator good cold,,, bad warming up and hot? You know Cyborg has a good point and that terrifies me. I'm sorry the quote was so short from top to bottom but Cyborg has degenerated into caveman language. But the point is good, sometimes electrical components malfunction as they warm up. Now I'm going to go find a longer quote. Somebody is going to quote this post aren't they? Please? ![:-S](//storage.proboards.com/3059616/images/rG3gqgohxSoufB7KntTR.gif)
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Post by JR on Mar 8, 2014 6:59:51 GMT -6
stator good cold,,, bad warming up and hot? You know Cyborg has a good point and that terrifies me. I'm sorry the quote was so short from top to bottom but Cyborg has degenerated into caveman language. But the point is good, sometimes electrical components malfunction as they warm up. Now I'm going to go find a longer quote. Somebody is going to quote this post aren't they? Please? ![:-S](//storage.proboards.com/3059616/images/rG3gqgohxSoufB7KntTR.gif) Also CDI's and coils can do the same, heat up and go bad but until he verifies if he has a pulse signal voltage it's all mute. Oh and BTW it's real easy to buy new (bad) electrical parts even two of them.
JR
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Post by cyborg on Mar 8, 2014 7:40:54 GMT -6
I've got it all distilled down to grunts and clicks,, drives the mrs crazy
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Post by Bashan on Mar 8, 2014 8:27:50 GMT -6
I've got it all distilled down to grunts and clicks,, drives the mrs crazy
Yeah, my wife likes that too.....oh wait....I see...never mind.
Thanks for the quote JR! That was nice. ![:-*](//storage.proboards.com/3059616/images/EokvhFGUU8Aslm5HFNHa.gif)
I thought I had did this before so I backed the Puma out and then got the scooter... ...tough audience. When I put the multi across the coil tabs and start the engine I get a steady reading:
When I hook the multimeter up by putting one lead on the Y/B coil supply, the other on the coil ground, and crank the motor I get a steady 29 v AC. It won't start like this:
![](http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac258/bashan_2010/Electrical%20Tech%20Posts/DSCN7772640x480.jpg)
![](http://i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac258/bashan_2010/Electrical%20Tech%20Posts/Untitled.jpg)
So this would tell you if the CDI is doing something although I wouldn't be surprised if the values varied widely from bike to bike. So I wouldn't count on getting a specific value and using it diagnostically. I have did this several times and got anywhere from 25v AC upwards of 34v AC. But it does show if the CDI has life.
If you put the meter in series with the Y/B, that is one probe in the Y/B and the other on the Y/B coil connector tab, it is all over the place and means nothing.
Man, this would make a tall quote! Epic! C'man Flash, hit the quote button, you know you want to. Push it.....puuuush iiiit! ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/3059616/images/io3qXvKuAKgoS3GBNHWG.gif)
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Post by cyborg on Mar 8, 2014 8:58:18 GMT -6
Yes i've had 2 "new" electric parts be bad in a row right out of the box,,,this was a few years ago,,,and also why i think parts houses will not return electronics,,,they figure you blew it up then want to return it,,,it's happened to me with several coils ,alternators, starters,,,,,altho i've never had an electronic part fail that way thank Heaven,,,when they went they just said adios and went on permanent strike,,,,which for me is good,,,easier to diagnose,,,back to the task at hand,,,i would also check all terminations to make sure that none of them are acting all bimetal,,,just had that happen on a bike 2 months ago
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