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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 19, 2014 20:56:23 GMT -6
Well I think the Green and White from the PICK UP coil has to be grounded. So I would unplug that one and ground it and see leave the other one plugged in that should be the TRIGGER WIRE going to the CDI. Give that a try.
Alleyoop
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Post by thetucks on Apr 19, 2014 21:05:11 GMT -6
I agree I think the green/white does go to ground. I will try that in the morning. on a side note. If I put the kill switch thats on the right handle bar in the off switch the machine will not start. thats the way its suppose to do. but if I put it in the run and start it and let it idle then try to put it in the kill spot it dont kill the scoot. it just stays running. I thought it was suppose to kill the scoot when u put it in the kill spot.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 19, 2014 21:15:22 GMT -6
Yes that is what it is supposed to do when you hit the killswitch it should kill the motor.
Since your CDI is DC what the kill switch does is disconnects the 12v going to the CDI just like your KEY when you turn it off, so that tells me there is a bad connection from the KEY TO THE KILLSWITCH. The 12v should run to the KILLSWITCH then to the IGNITION switch. So with KILLSWITCH on the run position 12v goes to the KEY you turn the KEY ON and now you have 12v at the CDI for it to run. So now you try to kill it with the KILLSWITCH and it does not so that means the KILLSWITCH is NOT DISCONNECTING the 12v going to the KEY, and you have to use the KEY to kill the motor.
So I believe the killswitch is bad or dirty and still making contact in the OFF POSTION.
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Post by JR on Apr 19, 2014 21:30:46 GMT -6
It is supposed to kill the scooter.
The CDI gets power form the black wire 12Vdc.
This pickup coil has only one wire going to CDI blue/yellow.
The green/white is kill wire and if you hook it back up and hit the kill switch them scooter will die.
The other wire should be green.
Now I'm a little confused here? If you turn this engine over with a fully charged battery and watch the spark it would take a really good eye to see it skip a spark?
Since it sparks and will run then the CDI is good, the coil is good, it's getting 12Vdc and I will ask this? Is the battery fully charged? Reason I ask this is because one time another fellow had this problem and with it running I assumed it had a good battery, with a properly charged battery the CDI gets the needed voltage to fire.
But he didn't tell me his battery was weak and he was jumping the scooter every time and then removing the cables. Come to find out his battery would only charge to 11 volts. The scooter will run with the battery as low as 10.5 Vdc but it runs like crap. Below 10.5 Vdc it doesn't run at all.
The only other thing that could cause your CDI to skip a spark is:
one of the stator pulse coil magnets has came off
the pulse coil is loose and too far from the flywheel to get a good magnet charge
It's also possible that you have a poor ground wire connection but I'm saying it wouldn't fire at all if that was the case.
JR
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Post by Bashan on Apr 19, 2014 21:35:11 GMT -6
Yes, it should kill the spark and I think Alley's suggestion is valid. If it is not killing the motor when you hit the kill something is wrong. I haven't read this whole thread...is there an alarm? That could change everything with the kill. Just tossing some hail Mary's, have you swapped out a coil? I've had them do just that, hit the throttle and blah...falls on it's arse. It seems like carb but it's electrical. Go figure. This might be over my pay grade and we should get Jack out of the chicken coop. Hey buddy?
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Post by JR on Apr 19, 2014 21:36:32 GMT -6
Yes that is what it is supposed to do when you hit the killswitch it should kill the motor. Since your CDI is DC what the kill switch does is disconnects the 12v going to the CDI just like your KEY when you turn it off, so that tells me there is a bad connection from the KEY TO THE KILLSWITCH. The 12v should run to the KILLSWITCH then to the IGNITION switch. So with KILLSWITCH on the run position 12v goes to the KEY you turn the KEY ON and now you have 12v at the CDI for it to run. So now you try to kill it with the KILLSWITCH and it does not so that means the KILLSWITCH is NOT DISCONNECTING the 12v going to the KEY, and you have to use the KEY to kill the motor. So I believe the killswitch is bad or dirty and still making contact in the OFF POSTION. Alleyoop Nope this kill switch grounds out the CDI independently just like a 150 AC type scooter. When you turn the key off the CDI has no voltage and engine will die but you can be running down the road and hit the kill switch with the key on and the engine will die.
The kill switch does not link up through the ignition. Know that sounds weird but that is the way it is. He can unhook the green/white to the CDI and the scooter will run. If the kill switch will not kill it then yes it can be bad but it doesn't have 12 volts to it, rather it is grounded.
JR
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Post by JR on Apr 19, 2014 21:37:49 GMT -6
But even then the kill switch has nothing to do with this mysterious every other spark?
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Post by Bashan on Apr 19, 2014 21:45:00 GMT -6
I still haven't found on this thread how they determined that it was hitting every other stroke? The pickup couldn't do that, it sends an impulse every rev. But I'm still dubious it's doing that. It idles nice and then boom a load and it falls on it's arse. Rich
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Post by JR on Apr 19, 2014 21:46:19 GMT -6
CDI on the YY250t and the 250B.
Wire colors vary a bit but it should have 5 wires:
Black = 12Vdc from ignition Green = ground Black/yellow = CDI coil feed wire gray/white = kill wire red/white = pulse/trigger coil
His trigger coil wire = blue/yellow, not very common on the 250's but it is a SunL and they do different things.
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Post by JR on Apr 19, 2014 21:50:00 GMT -6
I still haven't found on this thread how they determined that it was hitting every other stroke? The pickup couldn't do that, it sends an impulse every rev. But I'm still dubious it's doing that. It idles nice and then boom a load and it falls on it's arse. Rich My point exactly? My eyes are not good enough to see a engine turning over spark every other time? It would also have to spark every time on the compression stroke, if the engine was out of time and the CDI firing on every stroke then it would back fire and act stupid by firing at the wrong time and also wouldn't run at all.
I'm thinking timing chain off one or two teeth?
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Post by thetucks on Apr 19, 2014 21:52:26 GMT -6
You are correct it was very very difficult to see the spark skipping with just my normal spart tester but when I hooked up the the timing light I can see it clearly that it is skipping the fire. the kill switch will kill it if your trying to start it. but wont kill it if its already running.
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Post by thetucks on Apr 19, 2014 21:55:31 GMT -6
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Post by thetucks on Apr 19, 2014 21:57:01 GMT -6
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Post by thetucks on Apr 19, 2014 21:58:01 GMT -6
I took the motor apart yesterday to make sure it was set at exact top dead center with the cam and flywheel. and it is now.
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Post by Bashan on Apr 19, 2014 22:07:13 GMT -6
Electrical components can seem normal but as soon as you stress them bad ones fail. That is my impression here. Taking the kill off of the table I would have to say trigger coil, or ignition coil. I had a few conversations with Cookees about CF triggers, and a few with the mighty JR about chicken coops. Kidding buddy, you know I love you.  Possibly the kill syndrome is separate from the spark dysfunction. The kill seems more of a wiring function which should be constant but the spark is component dependent which could be RPM influenced. Just my 2X  but I'm just throwing spit balls. Rich
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
Possibly the kill syndrome is separate from the spark dysfunction. The kill seems more of a wiring function which should be constant but the spark is component dependent which could be RPM influenced. Just my 2X 
but I'm just throwing spit balls. Rich