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Post by thetucks on Apr 20, 2014 10:08:08 GMT -6
If they changed the pulse coil then they would have changed the whole wireing harness. the wires go into the plug that goes into the wiring harness. I wouldnt see that being likely because all the plugs for everything is factory. there are no splices anywhere.
yes there is a tackometer.
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Post by thetucks on Apr 20, 2014 10:16:15 GMT -6
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Post by thetucks on Apr 20, 2014 10:17:20 GMT -6
you can see in this pic that the wire color changes and its factory plug. im going to check my buddys scooter later to see if his is the same.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 20, 2014 12:33:40 GMT -6
My thought at this time is switch the wires from the Pick up coil, Green/white to Green and Blue /yellow to Red and White(TRIGGER PLUSE). All docs I have read say BLUE AND YELLOW from PICKUP coil is the TRIGGER PULSE, so it could be just have to switch them. Heck you can actually test it to check the BLUE and Yellow and see if it is putting out .05V-2.5 volts and then test the Green and White and see what that does. If you get .05-2.5 on the blue and yellow then swap them. Easy and fast test.
If you look at the Diagram I put up the two wires from the PICK UP COIL are the same as yours and the BLUE and YELLOW go to the CDI(trigger) and the Green and White(ground). Alleyoop
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Post by Bashan on Apr 20, 2014 15:03:16 GMT -6
So Tucks, this is actually yours?
First, have you considered a manicure? With a belt sander?
Second, Alley's diagram works and it doesn't. The wire colors are there for the trigger but Alley's has a power port magneto coil AC feed. Yours is a black DC wire into the CDI power port. What makes me think somebody rewired it is where's the kill? It's a black wire or am I just not seeing the tracer? If it's black that's very odd. I agree with Alley, do some multimeter testing. What I would specifically do is set your multi to AC low voltage and put a probe in both wires of the trigger (disconnected) and crank it. See what kind of voltage you get. Then try it each wire to frame. Then, just to be sure, check DC voltage at the power port with the key on. Then check continuity from that wire in the kill port (disconnected) to ground with key off and on. I would also pull the "trigger ground" in question and check continuity to ground. That's just me, and then I'd go get my nails done. Rich
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Post by thetucks on Apr 20, 2014 15:12:04 GMT -6
lol....my hands get pretty dry. Yes this is my cdi. The top wire on the right plug is black with a white tracer.
I also found out something else today. It had an alarm on it. I was going through the box of extra stuff I got for it and noticed a alarm with remotes in it. So I started looking for the plug on the scooter. There is a plug up front on the right side that was unaccounted for. I pluged in the alarm box and started the scoot. I hit the kill on the keyfob for the alarm and it killed it. I pushed the arm and in blinked the lights and armed the siren. I then unarmed the alarm as well.
Hoping that was my problem I started the scooter again and tried to throttle it and the same thing. It cuts out.
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Post by thetucks on Apr 20, 2014 15:28:36 GMT -6
Also with the alarm hooked up the kill switch works just as it is supposed to.
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Post by Bashan on Apr 20, 2014 15:34:17 GMT -6
Ah! Ah ha! An alarm! That explains a lot!! Jack? Alley? Now you are out of pay grade. It's brewski time! Rich
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Post by thetucks on Apr 20, 2014 15:39:50 GMT -6
OK putting my meter on the 2 wires set on ac.from the pickup coil. Turning it over I get .2. If I put a lead on one wire and on the ground I get nothing on either one.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 20, 2014 15:53:34 GMT -6
Try this you have nothing to loose: Where the two wires from the PICK UP coil plug into SWITCH them Then you will have the BLUE/YELLOW going to the CDI Trigger slot and the GREEN/WHITE to ground.
As far as the ALARM and REMOTE they are tricky, If you start them using the REMOTE you HAVE to SHUT THEM OFF USING THE REMOTE. The Remote is programmed to: If you start it with the REMOTE it is waiting to be shut off with the REMOTE. Once you shut if off with the remote and disable it internally it switchs to allow juice to flow from the KEY Switch, then the KILLSWITCH will also work. Alleyoop
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Post by Bashan on Apr 20, 2014 15:54:46 GMT -6
I'm back, I had a brewski, my tech advice from this point will be flatulence...I mean flawless. That is definitely your trigger. The signal seems strong so that's off the table. You've got a new CDI and coil? Do you have some latex gloves? Hey?! How about the ignition switch. I'd put a continuity function on that kill wire and mess with the key. See if moving it around breaks up the signal. It should be steady on off position and absent with on. Sally Hansen is calling, can you pick up or are your hands too scarred? Ignore me...I'm a buffoon. Rich
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Post by thetucks on Apr 20, 2014 15:55:04 GMT -6
!!!!!!ALLEYOOP!!!!!!!........you are awesome......The 2 wires coming from the coilpickup were reversed. I swapped them likeu susuggested and it runs awesome now.
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Post by Bashan on Apr 20, 2014 16:00:01 GMT -6
He's the best, now go get your nails done.....I'm just sayin'
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 20, 2014 16:05:54 GMT -6
FANTASTIC TheTucks!! Easy Fix as soon as I found that Diagram and saw the two wires from the Pickup Coil and they matched your Colors and your diagram of each wire was going were it made since to swap them and give that a try. Just great news bud Alleyoop
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Post by thetucks on Apr 20, 2014 16:08:38 GMT -6
thank you very very much I appreciate you working with me through this whole mess. I owe u one.
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