No voltage from stator By mjdwicinski (Read 2,160 times)

[tvnacman]

Any luck ?

John

[mjdwicinski]

This is the meter in the position I was told to put it on. How do I test the ballast or whatever up by the r/r? I'd love to figure this out.

[Bashan]

Since you don't have a continuity function on that meter you'll use the ohms at 200 to test for continuity. Continuity simply means the wires will carry electricity from one probe to the other. So to test the white to yellow, unhook the stator connector and put one probe in the end of the white and one in the yellow. If you get very low ohms you have continuity. You use the same idea for testing all the combinations of wires, or from one end of a wire to the other, for instance the trigger wire. John needs to answer your question about the ballast...I don't know.

[tvnacman]

You need to touch the wire and the body of the ballast resistor (with the meter set in the picture) report back what you find . Remember everything turned off not running . should be about 5 . Look on the resistor see if it is marked , tell us or show us a picture .

John

[mjdwicinski]

Meter set to 200 ohm nothing touching probes

Picture of ballast 5w 5ohm.

Red probe touched right were the 5w 5ohm imprint is. Black probe to frame of scooter. No keys in bike. Highest I saw was 1.9.

[Bashan]

I would say that's abnormal considering the markings on the ballast. How was the continuity between the wires or did I miss that?

[mjdwicinski]

Meter set to same setting as above on stator side. White to green no reading. Yellow to green no reading. Green to body 1.3. Bike side same readings.

[Bashan]

Yellow to white? What is no reading? You mean OL?

[mjdwicinski]

Ok yellow to white is this

And when I say no reading I mean the screen doesn't change what so ever. Here again is a picture of the meter turned to 200 ohms and this is with nothing touching the probes.

And the same above picture is what you see when you test white to green and yellow to green. So it's no reading I'd say

[Bashan]

Yes, that's low ohms which is continuity, that's what you are supposed to have on this type of stator. When you start the bike do you have some lights come on....like the headlight?

[tvnacman]

Well let us know whst you find .

John

[Bashan]

Here's how this works, the yellow wire and white wire carry AC current to the R/R. The stator is grounded on the green wire and to the case so that the AC circuits can oscillate back and forth along the W and Y grounded to the green. So if you don't have voltage on BOTH the Y and W, there has to be a common factor. I would strongly suspect a bad ground. The blue arrows represent AC current.

The yellow remains AC and will test hooked up to the R/R at around 12v AC:

Unhook it from the R/R and it is no longer regulated:

Likewise the white but with a different unregulated voltage as it supplies the charging circuit:

Of course your battery current is rectified to dc and should come in a little over 12v DC at maybe 13.5v DC.

Now going back to the very first diagram, if your lights are coming on after the bike starts, your stator is pumping out at least some voltage. If BOTH the Y and W are dark, I'd stongly suspect a ground problem. The magneto coil generates AC current at 50 to 100 volts to energize the CDI via the R/B. It has nothing to do with the lights or charging. Rich

[mjdwicinski]

Ok so what I get is you suspect a bad ground? Cause that was still a little over my head. So the meter no moving from it's resting state and me proving white to green and yellow to green would mean what? Yes my lights come on I've got my battery on a charger. I can start the bike and drive it but after a 20 minute drive or do if you turn the bike off it's dead. Also once it gets to low. I lose all lights headlights brake lights turn signals. I can put probes on battery terminals and get no voltage increase even with bike at full rev

[tvnacman]

Leave the stator unpluged , do a running acv test . Yellow to white , yellow to green/ground , white to green/ground . At idle and at 4000 rpm .

John

[Bashan]

If you have lights coming on when the bike starts, NOT WITH THE KEY, then your yellow wire is generating AC current because that is what runs a lot of your lights. Now you know testing voltage is completely different than ohms? The ohms test showed the wires are intact inside the stator and not burned up. So your ohms testing (continuity) showed the coils are OK and still connected correctly.

Now I believe you said you don't have any voltage on either the yellow or white? Well you DO. If the yellow was dead you wouldn't have lights coming on when the stator starts spinning. So your yellow is working. Since the white is connected to the yellow, which your ohms testing showed, it is probably generating voltage also. As John said, and look at my diagrams, unhook the stator pigtail, set your multi to AC voltage so that it is ranged for under 100v because the yellow should be around 20 and the white around 40. Before we go any further you are going to have to check the voltage on the white and yellow according to what John said and you can refer to my diagrams. If you tested your yellow and got nothing you are testing incorrectly. Do it like John said which is a little different from my diagram. Just unhook the stator pig and test from white to ground and then yellow to ground in the pig.