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Post by damin69 on Jun 20, 2010 20:10:20 GMT -6
Yep found out the direct wire would not work. I just rand out and used a diode test on my DMM and both check out to be fine. I Arrrg. There has got to be a bad wire connection and it has to be there between the diode, Fuse box and Battery. I just can not find it. This is so frustrating.
I know electronics I went to school for electronic and mechanical design drafting but this is not like PCB design. I know the theory. After college I have been working in Civil design and High Voltage collector system design. This is a whole lot different ball game. Trouble shooting JUST SUCKS.
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Post by damin69 on Jun 20, 2010 19:41:48 GMT -6
Damin, your scooter must be an exact clone of mine. I've experienced every single thing you have, including the mysterious "touch random wires and it dies!!" The good news is I did finally solve the latter problem. It was the two wires coming off the stator going to the CDI; the connector itself. You would barely graze them and it would kill the scooter, but it NEVER happened when I was ever riding! I cut the stock connector off and made a quick-connect crimp thing. As far as your charging problem, like I said, I replaced the diode with a relay and that helped. From that point, it was try about 6 different regulators until I found one that worked well. Some would charge at 17v and overheat, then stop charging altogether, others wouldn't charge at all, others would charge PERFECTLY at 14.5v then DIE after a week. I FINALLY have one that works well, but, I'm too lazy to put it on because the one I currently have (the original stock one) is doing well enough where it juuuuust barely keeps the batter maintained. For some reason if I put the diode back, it ruins everything again. Hope you find some special thing that fixes it once and for all... i'd be interested! How exactly did you replace with a relay. Can you give me a link to the relay you are using. I am not ruling out another bad diode. I just went back out and did the diode test again. I pulled the diode started it up and checked voltage at the Positive out put it was 13.8 at idel and 14.1 at 5000 rpm. But still am not getting the voltage like that at the Battery which has me puzzled. I will get that sorted as soon as I get the voltage constant at the postive on the RR.
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Tunnel Bag
by: damin69 - Jun 20, 2010 17:45:40 GMT -6
Post by damin69 on Jun 20, 2010 17:45:40 GMT -6
Ok Here are the pieces to the Tunnel bag. Bag 12 in McGuire soft tool bag. I picked up at Menards for $2.99 This is from Amazon same bag. www.amazon.com/McGuire-Nicholas-22312-Builders-Combination/dp/B00002N7XA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277074412&sr=1-1Then I picked up 1/2" Grommet Kit. Local hardware store $9.99 At Amazon www.amazon.com/General-Tools-71264-12PC-Grommet/dp/B000T2SGLOThe straps I used. The extra buckles for the other end of the straps. Heavy Duty D-Rings bought at Local hardware store about $4.50 Link at Amazon www.amazon.com/EXTRA-Triangle-Picture-Hanger-screws/dp/B000OMMI9UFirst I started by installing 1/2" grommets in 4 corners of bag about 1" in from ends and about 1/2" up from bottom of bag. Then mounted one end of the buckle on piece about 4" strap looped through one half of the buckle and secured to the tunnel with Heavy Duty D-Ring. This leaves you the ability to snug up the bag on each end. (Also the use of the D-Rings was not just for mounting the bag they were installed for when I am not using bag I can use them to strap items down across the Tunnel.) This also make the bag very easy to remove for fueling. I then ran the remaining strap through the 1/2" grommets in the bag and put the other end of the buckles on the ends. This bag gives you lots of extra room which is needed on the YY250T as the 244cc takes up so much under the seat there is very little room for storage. About the only thing I have under the seat is extra battery and tools. When I take some better Pictures I will post some clearer pics and zoom in on the way the buckles are mounted.
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Post by damin69 on Jun 20, 2010 14:57:01 GMT -6
I did a bit more testing before I finished what I was thinking of doing. I had the wire soldered in place and fuse holder in. Before I put the fuse In I decided to check the voltages again. That is where everything went to crap again. OK so now I find that at the Positive out of the RR while at Idol I get 13.5+ volts as soon as I bring the RPMs up the voltage drops to 9volts then comes up while at 5000 rpm steady it is holding about 12.4 volts. I tried all 3 regulators I have does the same thing.
I got the direct plug in Diode/relay.
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Post by damin69 on Jun 20, 2010 13:53:24 GMT -6
Glad my wiring does not look like that. I pulled the fuse box all the way out to the side to check all the wiring and connections. I replaced ALL of the fuses. And soldered all of the crimp connections all the way to the fuse box. That is what does not make any sense to have a voltage drop that much from the Regulator back to the Battery. I have taken off all the grounds and reconnected. Made sure there was no rust under any of them.
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Post by damin69 on Jun 20, 2010 9:31:36 GMT -6
Ok I did a little check coming directly out of the regulator I am getting 13.5 - 14 volts. Could I not run a positive lead with a fuse in it from there to my Battery to get my battery to charge? I am talking about running a wire from this brown lead pictured directly to the positive on the battery with a fuse in the line.
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Post by damin69 on Jun 20, 2010 8:42:56 GMT -6
Ok well I found the culprit to the cutting out issue but that did noting for the charging. Both plug to CDI were firm. I found the 2 wires coming from Stator the plug was very loose. I pulled the connectors out and tightened them up No more cutting out when moving wires around. But that did not change the charging issue.
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Post by damin69 on Jun 19, 2010 20:47:41 GMT -6
Very Nice job. The bike they are attached to is not bad either.. LOL
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Post by damin69 on Jun 19, 2010 16:46:40 GMT -6
I am at my whits end now. Man every time I take one step forward 2 steps back. Still NOT charging properly. I will ride for an hour and it will kill the battery enough that it will not start the scooter if I shut it off. Then the next time I can ride stop shut off and it starts right back up. Well today it was both. go figure. Had a full day of scooting planned while caching. Drove up to first cache about 40 min away. shut off scooter it would not start back up with out jumping it. I carry a battery with me just for this reason.
SO I was so ticked off I cut the day short told my dad sorry I have to get this dang thing chargeing. Came home put up on the lift and stripped to Frame again. took all the loom off the wires. All the connections that are wired hooked together and crimped I soldered. Still can not get the damn thing to put out over 12.83 volts at 5000 RPMs. I checked all the grounds loosened them up and re-tightened them down. I pulled the fuse panel out to the side of the scooter with the wires took it all apart. I replaced ALL of the fuses. Still nothing. Took all the wires apart put them back together same results.
Now comes something that is weird and I have a feeling is what is causing the problem but I can not find what is doing it. Ok through out this whole thing the scooter has ALWAYS ran great never given me any problems running. Well with the scooter running all the wires spread out and I move them something Kills the scooter it just quits. I just can NOT find the wire that is doing it. The wires I move are right in front of the regulator. I thought it was one of the ground wires but I started it back up and kept messing with it and would not do it again .
I would just love a stick of Dynamite right now. :-(
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Tunnel Bag
by: damin69 - Jun 19, 2010 16:32:56 GMT -6
Post by damin69 on Jun 19, 2010 16:32:56 GMT -6
Thanks guys. I will take better pictures when I get my Scooter put back together again for the umteenth time. Plus I will have the straps done exactly the way I want to do them I had to go pick up some more clips today that I needed I ended up with the wrong size.
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Post by damin69 on Jun 18, 2010 20:56:34 GMT -6
Ok will try again. Replaced the barrel fuse with a good spade fuse. Then was showing signs of not getting a decent ground back to the RR so ran a ground wire up to battery Now I am finally getting voltage that comes up when the rpms come up instead of going down. And the voltage is above the battery voltage when I start so I am hopeing that means it is going to charge now.
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Tunnel Bag
by: damin69 - Jun 18, 2010 20:42:52 GMT -6
Post by damin69 on Jun 18, 2010 20:42:52 GMT -6
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Post by damin69 on Jun 17, 2010 20:47:36 GMT -6
Ok It blew the fuse that goes to the solenoid once. Could be be that junky fuse holder giving me the charging problem?
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Post by damin69 on Jun 17, 2010 18:20:10 GMT -6
Ok according to the RR/Stator trouble shooting the problem is in this line I have drawn over in Red. I have a stinking suspicion it is in the dang wire that goes to that stupid clock. That thing goes haywire all the dang time and does not keep time. Where I'm confused is I don't see the Fuse for the wire that connects from the battery to the starter relay.
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Post by damin69 on Jun 17, 2010 16:07:04 GMT -6
I just do not under stand this.
Ok full charge battery. shows voltage 12.82
Start scooter drops comes back up to 12.58 stays there while ideling at 5000 rpm voltage drops to between 12.49 and 12.52
Have replaced regulator and Diode NOW and still does the same thing. I thought I had it last week had it stripped down and checked all connections again. Then did the diode check and the voltage came up. Now I get the new diode install and now voltage just stays flat. I tried jumping where the diode is again but this time the voltage just stayed the same. This sucks.
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