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Post by Cruiser on Sept 28, 2010 17:30:40 GMT -6
Well, now we know why the PDI says to replace all vacuum and fuel hoses with good quality stuff. You should also replace the fuel filter while you're at it. I would suggest treating this scoot like it was brand new and do a full PDI. It sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Here's the Scooter Doc PDI: scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=info&action=display&thread=1412
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 28, 2010 13:15:02 GMT -6
Welcome to Scooter Doc, oldmanweezer. Does the scoot show any signs of life when you turn the key on? If not, then check out the main fuse at the battery (usually 20 amp) and replace if necessary. You may also have additional fuses like I have that should be checked. Even if there is damage elsewhere in the charging circuit, you should have gage activity and brake and taillights working when the key is turned on. Get that fixed first and then see if the scoot starts up. Then you can check with a multimeter to see if the charging system is working (at least 13.5 volts at the battery).
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 28, 2010 10:33:08 GMT -6
I have a 2007 JCL MC250A and can not locate the engine number. I've looked in the area of the kickstand (base) and no luck. I did find the VIN number The engine serial (ID) number is located on the casing near the rear disc brake where the rear shock mounts.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 27, 2010 16:56:02 GMT -6
Welcome to Scooter Doc, dacheeba. Congratulations on the YY250T. This scoot and the MC-54-250B are clones of the Honda Reflex body wise. The B uses the Linhai engine cloned from a Yamaha and the YY250T uses the 244cc CfMoto engine which is cloned from the Honda Helix. So, the 250B and the YY250T look the same but just have different engines. There is no specific manual for these scoots. Most people use the manuals which pertain to the engines that are in their scoots. You can find the Yamaha and Helix manuals here: scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=info
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 27, 2010 16:39:39 GMT -6
Apparently the deal was too good to last. Jhbietz checked and said they have no more of these engines. I did give you credit for the great find, but the listing had already ended. I thought maybe they would relist, but I guess someone scoffed it up. Keep up the good work, Dr. JR.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 26, 2010 20:44:03 GMT -6
Does the variator assembly slide easily when you remove and replace it? The only time the belt could be loose would be if the clutch is hanging open and the contra spring is not closing it when slowing down. Just removing and installing the variator would not free up the clutch if it is sticking in the open or top speed position. Like alleyoop said, the clutch should be closed and the belt will be at the outermost portion of the pulley unless it is sticking and or the contra spring is weak. If a roller was out of its track, acceleration would be slower because the variator would be partly closed. How many miles on the rollers and belt? Have you cleaned out the factory grease?
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 26, 2010 19:06:39 GMT -6
How can you tell if the belt is loose or is it just a "feels like" situation. Does the engine rev higher than normal when accelerating or does it feel like it's pulling like being in high gear? Are the belt and variator weights original?
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 26, 2010 18:15:07 GMT -6
Good point, Rich. If you have confidence in your charging system and battery, then you really don't need a kick starter. I think the electric start may be more reliable than the kick start in any case. All the bigger scoots don't have the kick start.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 26, 2010 16:44:33 GMT -6
Take care of yourself, Larry. We'll be looking for a how-to on repairing road rash (on the scoot). It would have been a lot worst without the protective gear. A good lesson for other scoot riders. Heal fast.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 25, 2010 22:12:08 GMT -6
The tool I displayed a link for is the same type as shown on page 7 of the GY6 manual: The modified gear puller set up I described was used successfully by a member of the Ruckus forum. If you can use either of the above methods, the seal should be reusable.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 25, 2010 18:54:50 GMT -6
Here's what the special tool looks like to remove this gear. There really is no description so without dimensions, there is no guarantee it would fit. [/b] I have also read where some people use a small 3 leg gear puller and grind the ends down so that it will fit behind the gear. They then use plastic cable ties (zip ties) to hold the jaws together while tightening the center bolt.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 25, 2010 12:06:03 GMT -6
Here's my favorite. $15 and guaranteed for life. Works on all variators and clutch assemblies.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 24, 2010 22:50:47 GMT -6
If it was me, I would hesitate to use this engine even if it was new because of the wheel size problem. I think you have 2 good reasons to return this engine on their dime (used and wrong engine) and they still have not honored the warranty.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 24, 2010 22:15:17 GMT -6
I believe the drum brake set up uses a 10 inch rim so you most likely will not be able to use a 13 inch rear wheel even if you could change over to drum brakes. The left crank case assembly is most likely shorter than the disk brake set up. Measure the distance from the end of the crankshaft to the rear axle to confirm this.
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motor CAPUT
by: Cruiser - Sept 24, 2010 11:35:36 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on Sept 24, 2010 11:35:36 GMT -6
Great. You should be up and scootin' in time for some autumn cruising. Have you been able to determine exactly what the problem was?
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