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My belt has slapped a little on the bottom of the case from day one. Has anyone tried the 906x22.5x30 belt? I would think this shorter belt might eliminate the slap if it fits. This belt is normally used on some 150cc scoots.

www.monsterscooterparts.com/90sccvtbegap.html

Viscosity is what determines how well any oil will flow at a given temperature. 10W-30 oil will flow the same in a given pump whether it is dino or synthetic. If we were talking about pancake syrup, then stickiness might be an attribute to consider. Dino (non-synthetic) is recommended initially to allow the engine to break in properly by letting the parts wear in together allowing the rings to seat properly. Some people feel that the synthetic lubricates so well that it won't allow parts to wear in. You certainly can keep using dino oil after break in, but most people will switch to full synthetic because of the superior lubricating qualities. Most synthetics have a wider range of viscosity like the the 5W-40 Rotella-T which is what I use. When the engine is cold, the oil flows better to allow better lubrication (5W) and when the engine is hot, you get the protection of 40 weight oil. Synthetic also has the ability to maintain its initial viscosity ratings longer than dino oil. Since most scoot engines do not have true oil filters, I feel oil which is designed for the most severe service like synthetic diesel oil is appropriate after the break in when you no longer need to "wear in" parts.

The part number for the sunlpartsonline is the same as the one from tankscooterpartswholesale that I posted earlier. Hopefully your clutch is OK.

Hi tk. I think that the strap wrench you bought is smaller than the one I mentioned (Craftsman 12") in post #31 above. I just did some work on my variator and I use the centerstand bracket as the stop for the handle on the strap wrench when tightening the variator nut. 80 foot pounds of torque with no slipping. It is also very easy to line up and stays on the edge of the variator fan with no problems.

Upgrading to LED's is a good idea for improving the performance of the DC charging system. However, most 150's use a separate stator winding for the headlights which run on AC so the LED upgrade would not help out for the AC powered lights. Some guys try to run a DC headlight by running off the battery after doing the LED upgrade. I believe that's what Bashan did. Has anyone tried a hybrid system with one AC and one DC headlight?

Congratulations, Todd. Now you can get in some quality scootin' time again. Your results are identical to mine when you take into account that I run an electric fuel pump. I also am running the OEM R/R that came with my scoot. I don't think your OMP unit is being used to its fullest potential because the stator does not have the output to do so. It seems that if you are lucky enough to have a decent OEM R/R, it will put out as much as the stator is capable of delivering which is probably in the 10 to 15 amp range. The plus with the OMP unit is that it is guaranteed and you can always get a properly working one without having to cherry pick until you find a good one. It looks like the stator is the limiting component once you have a good R/R.