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Post by trashtruck12172 on Jun 8, 2016 9:23:40 GMT -6
sometimes body parts are hard to find, some more than others and you'll have to get creative. if you can't find anything online try local auto and motorcycle salvage yards or even insurance companies to see where all the dead scooters end up.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on Jun 7, 2016 13:27:07 GMT -6
looks like the spacer for the bolt that holds the handle bars on to the frame.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on Jun 7, 2016 8:37:04 GMT -6
how old are the brake shoes? could be buildup and you may need to clean them up or new shoes.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on Jun 7, 2016 6:04:46 GMT -6
is it burgundy dust or rust? check the clutch. something may have broken.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on Jun 6, 2016 14:50:39 GMT -6
check the throttle cable itself for fraying, stretching or binding.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on Jun 6, 2016 7:52:01 GMT -6
It's a shame that states don't require a certificate from an approved safe driving course with periodic renewals BEFORE a license can be issued or renewed. I believe instances like this could be greatly reduced. As a commercial driver the National Insurance Institute of America believes "There is no such thing as an accident, there is only operator error". I know others will feel differently but I believe any speed above 65mph isn't driving any more, it's aiming.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on Jun 4, 2016 17:24:30 GMT -6
with the bike on the center stand, start and apply throttle. if the rear wheel turns and increases speed with throttle chances are good nothing is wrong with the cvt and you either have an air leak or fuel restriction somewhere. the early 139qmb's were restricted with a washer behind the variator so it wouldn't open all the way. that's what i've been told.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on Jun 4, 2016 16:56:27 GMT -6
because it sat for so long i would question the following:
are the brakes dragging?
is the caliper functioning properly?
is the carb clean?
is the variator functioning properly?
is the clutch functioning properly?
when these sit for awhile stuff tends to get gummed up and stick.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on Jun 4, 2016 11:47:11 GMT -6
I agree with jct, something may have gotten bent or damaged upon landing. axle, axle bearing, rim, drum or disc, binding brakes maybe?
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Post by trashtruck12172 on May 30, 2016 7:36:05 GMT -6
^+1. slow and methodical is the key. throw a bunch of parts at it at once and you'll never know what worked to fix it. get it running first and go from there.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on May 26, 2016 8:30:26 GMT -6
try a different valve gap. sounds like it's losing compression as the motor gets warm and the valve is not seating completely.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on May 24, 2016 10:35:11 GMT -6
with the engine out you can probably start investigating final drive gears. with a bbk, upjetting and new rollers for the variator you can probably expect a 5-7mph gain. upgrading the final gears should get you another 3-5 mph. any faster than that i think it would be more cost effective to investigate a bigger bike.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on May 24, 2016 6:10:10 GMT -6
you can start with .004 gap and adjust from there. with the motor out i would look at seals and rod bearings.
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Post by trashtruck12172 on May 23, 2016 11:02:24 GMT -6
with everything connected if the battery is showing 12.5v at any rpm i would test the battery. sounds like it may have a dead cell.
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Fuel gauge
by: trashtruck12172 - May 21, 2016 15:12:50 GMT -6
Post by trashtruck12172 on May 21, 2016 15:12:50 GMT -6
if the new gauge has 3 wires and the old sender only has 2, I would suggest replacing the old sender with a 3 wire one instead of trying to hack electrical wiring for the tank. 12 volts and gas aren't usually friendly with each other.
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