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Post by neallyb on Sept 6, 2011 1:46:13 GMT -6
Whoa -!! I had those items mixed up! Thanks for posting the pix! Thanks again!
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Clinician
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Post by neallyb on Sept 5, 2011 11:42:55 GMT -6
Hey thanks John - I've double checked the ground three times - even buffed all connectors and refastened to frame. I've removed the battery some many times I didn't think about the terminals or battery ground. I started carrying 2 batteries... one for the trip out. Then swapped them out for the trip home. Pretty silly when one wants to look hip and cool :-) Later friends - sitting this aside for now and going to a pool party as the temperature has dropped to a nice cool low 90's here. God bless the families struggling with wildfires central Texas.
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Clinician
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Post by neallyb on Sept 5, 2011 11:36:39 GMT -6
Nah -- I can found it already. Like I said, I removed all body panels. So everything is easy to get to. I also checked the fuse box and all of the connections are all secure. Based upon the malfunctioning gauges - no change in apparent short...but one thing more is out of the way with your help. I also went ahead an replaced the fuses cause it's a cheap upgrade and I decided to order a replacement manostat. See attached pix. I'll keep in touch as to my progress. As my 250 is opened up now, I will be happy to provide any additional photos that may be of use to you and your readers. ThankU for the help!. Neal Attachments:
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Post by neallyb on Sept 5, 2011 7:05:06 GMT -6
On an interesting side note -- gas in central Texas is only available with ethanol additive - one of America's biggest rip offs. The tampered fuel is roughly 30% less efficient than "real fuel" and the increased evaporation leads to faster gumming of fuel line components. I've found real fuel still available near Waco and San Antonio... I may stock up to see it runs better and reduces down time. Thoughts?
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Clinician
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Post by neallyb on Sept 5, 2011 7:00:38 GMT -6
I apologize for missing this helpful string when I needed it. How this tech request unfolded is as follows: I determined the gas was indeed getting to carb by pulling off fuel line an cranking engine (like on my old VW's during college 200 years ago). I then ordered a new carb for about $44 and after priming it, it fired up great. It ran great, lots of power and serious cruising fun commenced. I put 1000 miles on it in a couple of months (now I'm really hooked). Unfortunately, in a couple of months, performance began to deteriorate, including lack of acceleration, frequently choking as I pulled back on the throttle to get out of intersections as quickly as possible. So instead of rebuilding the carb with the $29 rebuild kit, I bought another $44 one. Performance and power instantly returned. I do have the problem of embarrassing backfiring when I release the throttle - especially when braking from high speed - which I do frequently. I read elsewhere it's likely the jets running "lean" or "rich" depending on who you ask :-) Don;t know how to adjust the jets... thanks for the great support!! Attachments:
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Post by neallyb on Sept 5, 2011 0:41:23 GMT -6
Need description of R/R plugs... don't know what that is.
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Post by neallyb on Sept 5, 2011 0:39:08 GMT -6
On a side note, I notice, last week when I got under the nose-cone there was evidence of wire "jickky-ing" as if it was tampered with and or repaired at the factory or more likely, the dealer... something I had hope to avoid buy purchasing new vehicle. Oh well.
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Clinician
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Post by neallyb on Sept 5, 2011 0:35:14 GMT -6
WOW - So much help! Just to make you all laugh... Since my first post, I checked every connection and ground on the bike from back to front. Frustrated, I even dismantled the instrument cluster today certain I would find a small gremlin living behind the tachometer who has chewed the wires.
Anyway, thanks for the wonderful support! I have just purchased a new multi-meter from the evil Walmart. So I now have a new tool and information to proceed - and will report back, especially now that I bookmarked this page.... thankee
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Post by neallyb on Aug 31, 2011 23:18:18 GMT -6
Nothing makes me feel dumber than trying to find a short in automotive wiring. Symptoms are: 1) Dead battery after running for 20 or 30 miles. 2) Non working fuel gauge (after starting) 3) Non working temp gauge (after starting) 4) Sometime the temp gauge acts like a tachometer then goes to sleep I took all the body panels off and carefully check every connection and ground. Could it be the instrument cluster itself? The manostat or CDI? They are all on that circuit. Sigghh. Attachments:
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Post by neallyb on Aug 31, 2011 23:08:17 GMT -6
I have not tested this yet, but I've recently learned there is a huge difference between "ethanol" added gas and "real"gas. While researching gumming in my 250YY carb, I learned that gas with ethanol additive is much less efficient. Also the rapid evaporation of the alcohol increases the probability of gumming quickly (my carb gummed up in two weeks of sitting).
For instance - my friend filled up his SUV in Austin with ethanol flavored gas and drove to Oklahoma CIty. It took 1 1/2 tank of gas. Because real gas was available in OK - he filled up with real gas in OK and drove home -- it only took 1 tank to get back with the real gas.
I'm sure yet, but that sounds like a substantial increase in efficiency.
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