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Post by speedracer on May 8, 2011 11:07:43 GMT -6
It would like it just came out of the junk yard.
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Post by speedracer on May 7, 2011 14:14:57 GMT -6
LadyCat BTW the video was great. I think it will help a lot of people when it comes to changing the sliders or rollers and putting on a new belt. Can't help you with the dog transportation. Nice thing you are doing, and lets hope people adopt a dog before buying one. We have a rescue Basset and she is the kindest dog and just loves us to death.
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Post by speedracer on May 6, 2011 12:01:14 GMT -6
Sliders are easy to fall out of place, so I hold the slider pressure plate tight against the sliders then slide it onto the crank. I think flipping it over move the sliders out of place.
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Post by speedracer on May 4, 2011 16:04:03 GMT -6
Thanks for the advise. I just looked at my center stand and I have the same problem. Half the wheel is missing. How did you resolve the problem?
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Post by speedracer on May 2, 2011 6:16:36 GMT -6
While CVT cover is off remove the variator and check your rolers or sliders. A few times I swore it was the clutch only to find out a slider was turned or broken U slides.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 30, 2011 12:34:12 GMT -6
Has nothing to do with the subject so please excuse me. I don't think ethanol in the gas hinders power or MPG. Nascar now runs 15% ethanol and Indy cars doing 240 mph run 100% ethanol gas. Nascar actually announced higher HP by using ethanol. My gas stations all have at least 10% ethanol in the gas.
It just doesn't help Red Scooters at all. They are beyond help.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 30, 2011 12:23:47 GMT -6
Jeff, Now is the best time for you to change from rollers to sliders. After the most difficult time you had to remove the variator why put the rollers back in it? I have the same variator and if I had 5000 miles on those rollers they would be replaced. Have you checked the belt for wear? BTW sliders need no lubication at all.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 28, 2011 18:16:31 GMT -6
Oh yea I know how you can use the throttle cable can raise the rpms. I have mine set so there is enough play in it, that I have to move it some to get the scoot going. Rained a lot today so tomorrow is going to be beautiful so I'll really test it out, but so far so good. So is that how a mechanic like you Alley fools the customer?? LOL
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Post by speedracer on Apr 27, 2011 19:24:40 GMT -6
Well you learn something new every day. Had no idea the choke starts to retract when engine shuts down. Now I can see why it engages when it really doesn't need to.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 27, 2011 18:00:31 GMT -6
Alley you were right. Two weeks ago I removed the carb several times to clean it out and apparently the bottom of the intake hose from the air box was completely secured. There was my air leak. Now it's running fine again, but for how long is always the question on these bikes. Thanks and Earthman my choke is like yours. It can run fast for a min or two minutes, decides on it's own. Air temp doesn't matter at all. Mine can sit 30 minutes with it being in the 80's and the choke comes on. Oh well.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 27, 2011 7:25:36 GMT -6
I can not adjust the idle so it remains constant. It either idles to fast, just right, or too low.
Yesterday as an example. Started it up cold, idle went up to 3000 while choke was on then dropped to 2000. Go 1 mile to store and idle is at 1800. Still fine in my book. Go on a straight 5 mile ride with no stops then come to a stop light and it's idling at 2300 and pulling on the back wheel. Continue a few miles to my home and pull it in the garage and it's at 2300 again.
Put scoot on center stand while it still running, go get my other key to open the seat and with the screwdriver I slightly lower the idle to just a tad under 2000.
This morning did the exact same ride and had the exact results from yesterday. This is not new, as it has been doing this for weeks. I can not adjust the idle so it remains the same.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 25, 2011 19:03:49 GMT -6
Her sliver will win. they are faster.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 25, 2011 14:11:18 GMT -6
That's correct they are not connected to any vacuum lines. Just ignore them or you can remove them by taking out the brass screw.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 24, 2011 19:05:47 GMT -6
I'm with Alley on this one. Use a torch and heat up that nut then hit with the impact wrench. That nut was put on with china locktight which is hard to loosen. As far as I know it is not a reverse thread.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 24, 2011 11:23:47 GMT -6
Hey Jeff, my 250 is in the process of being replaced with a new one. Mine has been trouble from the beginning. I do use an electric impact wrench and it works fine. What I finally noticed after removing the fan blade 5 or 6 times so far is that there are two broken fan blades. Not snapped off but the ends missing. I never noticed this before. I believe the fan went on from the factory broken as there are not pieces of metal inside the CVT cover. I also feel it caused all of my problems inside the variator. Broken U slides which in turn did damage to the roller weight cover, and a boss which looks like a WW II relic.
If I were you, I'd order a new fan cover ASAP. So far I don't feel there has been any damage to the crankshaft. Been running it a few times this week in the garage without the variator and the engine is smooth running and all looks good.
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