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Post by seanstr on Nov 29, 2016 10:55:22 GMT -6
The drive in to work was ok, didn't seem any smoother yet but I am not pushing it. Just getting to work. I did try to go faster than 45mph but no good.
Hoping the CDI is the problem and the scooter works great after this.
Do one change and check results.
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Post by seanstr on Nov 29, 2016 5:52:25 GMT -6
seanstr said "So, this is my question? Can a minor exhaust leak that is undetectable with the ear cause bad mileage?" Answer: No If you are only averaging 60 mpg, on many, many consecutive tank fills, and you are sure you are not loosing any to leaks or vandals....then you must be using it. Do you know what your original variator weights were? I'm still confused by your statement about what you have now....13gr...14gr....rollers...sliders Have you checked brake temps after driving scooter...is one dragging a bit...(don't get burned when doing this) Have you done anything to the clutch? Cleaned out the belt dust...checked pads for glazing....maybe it's slipping some Do you have a tach installed?.....It would tell you if the rpm's at your normal cruise speed have increased. Still say pull the spark plug first...if it is covered with cartbon....it's getting too much fuel Read this thread: scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/10488/long-ngk-c7hsa-lastI'm still having this problem, so in reading this over again. I do not know what weights the rollers where. As for the 13 gram & 14 gram rollers and sliders, I mixed 13 gram sliders with 14 gram rollers, at least that's what I still have. But what I truly remember was that I mixed 14 gram rollers with 11 gram sliders. I have a lazer temp gauge and I could check my brake temps this way. What kinds of temperatures am I expecting if they are functioning normally? The rest have been answered elsewhere. Do one change and check results. |
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Post by seanstr on Nov 29, 2016 5:51:18 GMT -6
seanstr said "So, this is my question? Can a minor exhaust leak that is undetectable with the ear cause bad mileage?" Answer: No If you are only averaging 60 mpg, on many, many consecutive tank fills, and you are sure you are not loosing any to leaks or vandals....then you must be using it. Do you know what your original variator weights were? I'm still confused by your statement about what you have now....13gr...14gr....rollers...sliders Have you checked brake temps after driving scooter...is one dragging a bit...(don't get burned when doing this) Have you done anything to the clutch? Cleaned out the belt dust...checked pads for glazing....maybe it's slipping some Do you have a tach installed?.....It would tell you if the rpm's at your normal cruise speed have increased. Still say pull the spark plug first...if it is covered with cartbon....it's getting too much fuel Read this thread: scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/10488/long-ngk-c7hsa-lastI'm still having this problem, so in reading this over again. I do not know what weights the rollers where. As for the 13 gram & 14 gram rollers and sliders, I mixed 13 gram sliders with 14 gram rollers, at least that's what I still have. But what I truly remember was that I mixed 14 gram rollers with 11 gram sliders. I have a lazer temp gauge and I could check my brake temps this way. What kinds of temperatures am I expecting if they are functioning normally? The rest have been answered elsewhere. |
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Post by seanstr on Nov 28, 2016 22:24:09 GMT -6
Fun thing, I tried out the adjustable CDI. It's crap. I finally the it away. Wouldn't even allow scooter to start.
Do one change and check results.
Edit, by crap I mean it used to at least allow the scooter to run.
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Post by seanstr on Nov 28, 2016 18:05:03 GMT -6
I have the koso installed. I really liked the way the belt rides on the new variator. Test drive on the way to and from work.
Do one change and check results.
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Post by seanstr on Nov 28, 2016 13:44:33 GMT -6
First part will be the Malossi variator today. Won't make a big difference.
Then waiting for 112 jet, performance CDI, THEN, ....!!!😂🤔
Do one change and check results.
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Post by seanstr on Nov 27, 2016 15:06:12 GMT -6
One thought out of the blue.........the carb. Do you know for sure it is opening up all the way? besides the mechanical linkage for throttle, inside the carb is the piston....it is actuated by vacuum. A tiny leak in the rubber diaphragm on top will cause the piston to not be drawn up all the way. A rip in the diaphragm will limit the speed to just over idle. A rough spot can limit that piston or slide also. Your scooter needs more power to get the rpms up/ Right now it seems like it is going uphill instead of running on a level street. Like you need to twist the throttle a bunch more. Brand new carb. Like 2 weeks old. However, the service manual stated the CDI would cause this exact issue.  So I ordered the exact thing that alleyoop got in one of these threads.  I'm hoping for same results. Happiness. I do have a DC CDI. Tested by turning key to on, then test light on the 2 pin plug. There is only one wire. It turns on as soon as you turn key to on position. Alleyoop stated that means DC CDI. |
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Post by seanstr on Nov 27, 2016 12:44:06 GMT -6
OK, I re checked several things. My valves were off, intake is at .004, exhaust .005. my compression went up further. Damn near 200 psi. The spark plug indicated lean. Changed the jet from a 110 to a 115 and reset air fuel mixture using the tach. Once it got add high as it would go I then backed off the idler screw until RPM'S got back down to 1800. Hit up the manifold intake from carb to engine to tighten it up to make sure it's tight. Pulled if the vacuum from manifold and sucked to see if any fuel was leaking into the manifold, for the extra fuel consumption. I cannot see a vent hose for the fuel tank so maybe Lance/Sym didn't have one?! I have not checked the timing. However, I have a spare CDI but I have never liked the way it performed. I will wait until tomorrow after breakfast. Take it out again for another test drive if anyone sees something a miss like the compression being higher than spec by 15 psi please post asap, thank you in advance. So the test drive. The 115 jet is too large. Maybe need a 112. The jet kit I got is missing that. Do one change and check results. |
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Post by seanstr on Nov 27, 2016 12:43:03 GMT -6
I don't have a timing light. I think I since everything appears to be great (got to 7690 RPM'S) but it refuses to go past 45 mph it might just be CDI. To check CDI you need to check timing, so I need a timing light. Like I said, the adjustable CDI is available but last time I tried it out 2 fuses blow right away during start up.
Do one change and check results.
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Post by seanstr on Nov 27, 2016 2:00:12 GMT -6
OK, I re checked several things.
My valves were off, intake is at .004, exhaust .005. my compression went up further. Damn near 200 psi.
The spark plug indicated lean. Changed the jet from a 110 to a 115 and reset air fuel mixture using the tach. Once it got add high as it would go I then backed off the idler screw until RPM'S got back down to 1800.
Hit up the manifold intake from carb to engine to tighten it up to make sure it's tight.
Pulled if the vacuum from manifold and sucked to see if any fuel was leaking into the manifold, for the extra fuel consumption.
I cannot see a vent hose for the fuel tank so maybe Lance/Sym didn't have one?!
I have not checked the timing. However, I have a spare CDI but I have never liked the way it performed.
I will wait until tomorrow after breakfast. Take it out again for another test drive if anyone sees something a miss like the compression being higher than spec by 15 psi please post asap, thank you in advance.
Do one change and check results.
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Post by seanstr on Nov 26, 2016 18:56:56 GMT -6
Please, also need make suggestions for fuel economy.
I am going to have give up the mph I think. Just seems impossible. Nothing changes the outcome of only getting to 45mph.
I want the higher mpg. I only need to go 40 mph.
Do one change and check results.
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Post by seanstr on Nov 26, 2016 18:45:34 GMT -6
Well, I tried several things after getting a copy of a fiddle 2 125cc service manual.
Tried valve clearance of .002. compression went down to 165 psi. So back to .004.
I'm currently waiting for a Malossi variator. Once that's in I'll try to adjust there CVT yet again.
Any idea are extremely welcome.
Do one change and check results.
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Post by seanstr on Nov 26, 2016 18:41:59 GMT -6
If 185 is spec then it is a high compression engine. Hi test! Max torque is usually given at around 7500 rpm for a gy6 The only way you will get more speed is more rpm. Lighter weights and longer belt comes to my mind. You are probably messing with the wrong scooter because even if you got a 10% increase you are still looking at getting a lot more out of it. 10% is a lot to get out of one of those engines with out major work on it. My problem is in just trying to get it back to OEM. It used to do 55mph, and got 80-90 mpg. Then it got in to Oct if 2012 and the temp dropped to under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Got bogging, drop in mpg by like 20 mpg, and a drop in mph, by 5-10 mph. Shop said they couldn't figure it out. Ever. They did stuff to it and wouldn't tell me what. Still don't know. It was under warranty. Lance stated that the shop said they fixed it but it would never go any faster. So, here I am. |
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Post by seanstr on Nov 26, 2016 16:14:37 GMT -6
OK, so I have the 2k spring in. The belt isn't loose. Yeah!
Tried 13 gram sliders. 45 mph top end still. Lol.
Trying 10 gram rollers, then either up or down depending on how it feels. Hoping for like some more top end.
Do one change and check results.
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Post by seanstr on Nov 26, 2016 16:12:29 GMT -6
If your compression is 185 you need to be using premium gas too. My question now is why is the compression that high. Around 150 is more like what a gy6 is. Could your engine be Carboned up? 2stroke engines do that commonly though not impossible for a 4 stroke to do it. No that's what is to speck. At least per Sym. 184.7 something. |
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