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Post by sprocket on Jun 27, 2012 13:10:31 GMT -6
Not a good idea to ride without the cover, they are thought to strengthen the rear of the engine... just what others have observed over the years...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 27, 2012 13:00:05 GMT -6
I think you are out a link the cam chain...you need to set the piston at TDC...the T mark may give you the ballpark, but I don't trust it to be accurate, although Rich says his was right on the 'T' on the rebuild...and I would never doubt him.
I say you want true top dead center use the piston to set the cam chain...pretty easy to check, just get a strong light and observe the piston through the plug hole
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Post by sprocket on Jun 27, 2012 12:36:17 GMT -6
Yes it does matter..the heater needs to melt a wax pellet, if you don't have enough voltage the wax never melts fully and expands... so you get a partial extension of the needle...
You may be running rich all the time....generally they run 14 volts AC. You could go to 12.5 volts DC and still be OK , but the white wire should give at least that in AC right from the stator
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Post by sprocket on Jun 27, 2012 12:26:09 GMT -6
Use dino oil 15w/40 no additives...how much oil do you have in it? Sounds to me like you have too much and you are getting a pressurization of the sump...
In a 150 cc 750 ml is enough, about 3/4 of a quart...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 25, 2012 16:12:02 GMT -6
Set the valve gaps...progressively harder to start..first clue you need to adjust the valves...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 25, 2012 16:06:37 GMT -6
Petcock..check the vacuum hose that goes to it...if it is a fuel pump check the vacuum hose to it...
The fuel filter should have fuel in it..you may have it backwards in the line
remove the gas cap and try it...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 25, 2012 16:00:21 GMT -6
If you are braking belts like that even the cheap ones you have something else happening..likely a stuck clutch or a bad clutch roller bearing...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 24, 2012 13:08:03 GMT -6
Likely the fuel cap..replace it or drill a 1/16 inch hole through the cap...Sometimes you can bend the tabs on the cap... will loosen it just slightly...and stop the problem
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Post by sprocket on Jun 23, 2012 16:09:47 GMT -6
I agree with Alley...being top dead center is the important thing, and the 'T' should be close to the pointer... this means you are on the right stroke...
Accuracy is important..it is easy to get the cam sprocket out by a single link on the chain and it will probably run but not very well...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 23, 2012 15:52:07 GMT -6
Actually oil in these engines should be changed at 500 kms...at break in it should have been done when new..because chinese oil is terrible then again at 150 kms...need to change the gear oil too..it takes 90 SAE gear oil...buy it in a squirt bottle
Be aware that overfill is as bad as not having enough oil...follow the manual...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 23, 2012 15:46:25 GMT -6
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Post by sprocket on Jun 23, 2012 15:38:36 GMT -6
Could be bad O rings on the plunger...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 23, 2012 15:36:40 GMT -6
Ya the ignition lock has turned and it is on the wrong side of the lock stop on the triple tree...remove the front plastic
and have a look at the ignition lock andyou will see the steering lock arm..it will be on the rong side of the post, so you need to loosen the ignition lock and get the arm adjusted correctly
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trans gears
by: sprocket - Jun 23, 2012 15:29:32 GMT -6
Post by sprocket on Jun 23, 2012 15:29:32 GMT -6
Might talk to a good welder...anyone experienced in aluminum welding could fix that..probably stronger than it was cast...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 22, 2012 16:56:51 GMT -6
Talk to a small engines guy where you live...they often won't work on these, but may point you the right direction. These engines are very much like older skidoos, outboards, riding mowers etc...
On the smell thing... Kinda of a sweet smell?
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