Scooter Doc
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Post by sprocket on Jun 28, 2012 17:01:52 GMT -6
Regulator/rectifier needs to be replaced, or the stator is defective..need to check the voltages from the stator in AC volts
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Scooter Doc
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Post by sprocket on Jun 28, 2012 16:56:35 GMT -6
Both nuts are a standard thread on a GY6. The starter clutch nut is a reversed thread.
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Post by sprocket on Jun 28, 2012 16:47:40 GMT -6
Try it at night when it is cool...some electrical stuff on scooters doesn't like to sit in the sun in 100 degree weather... but it sounds now like a petcock problem...they run or about 2 minutes using fuel in the carb and then just die..no more gas getting to the carb.
Have you filled the gas tank recently?
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Post by sprocket on Jun 28, 2012 16:28:19 GMT -6
Clutch...rear pulley...I suspect it is seized as I said before... the clutch is not running free at low RPMs, the belt is slipping on the rear pulley and wearing it out...
Easy to check..put the scooter on the center stand and run it or 5 minutes, the rear wheel should not turn, or just slightly move when the engine is idling...if it is spinning you got a clutch problem or your idle is way high...both will wear out belts
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Post by sprocket on Jun 28, 2012 16:25:17 GMT -6
Could be the pick-up coil on the stator, unless you jumped the battery off running vehicle that cooks the CDI Check your voltage between the stator and CDI on the red and black wire, also you should get a pulse voltage on the blue and white or blue and yellow. All AC volts
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Post by sprocket on Jun 28, 2012 16:17:29 GMT -6
The air filter is full of oil and it is running down the air intake, or you have the valve cover vent hose connected to the ACV. Take the air box apart and clean it completely for a start..
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Oil Leak
by: sprocket - Jun 28, 2012 7:37:11 GMT -6
Post by sprocket on Jun 28, 2012 7:37:11 GMT -6
Likely a valve cover leak..or the vent hose on the valve cover..the fan blows it around under the plastic engine cover..pretty common
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Post by sprocket on Jun 28, 2012 7:33:53 GMT -6
Try a longer wirevand wrap it more..it is like a coil magnet..the more wraps the more power is generated, so the Tach moves or move the tach use the wire supplied and be done with it
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Post by sprocket on Jun 27, 2012 20:58:24 GMT -6
Petcock or fuel pump...plugged tank outlet, no vent to the tank ...who knows...
Start at the tank check everything all the way down to the carb inlet....when you crank the engine and you have fuel to the carb..then the fuel to the carb isbOK..otherwise it is an upstream problem
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Post by sprocket on Jun 27, 2012 20:38:56 GMT -6
Maybe..does the fuel filter always have fuel in it? Spitting is probably, OK
You have other issues, forget the intake elbow...you can easily check that with a spray bottle and water...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 27, 2012 20:37:53 GMT -6
You need the right amount of oil...750 ml..to much or less is not good.
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Post by sprocket on Jun 27, 2012 18:45:56 GMT -6
The wire type should have no effect...the length is your problem...the tach my be 'tuned' to that length, and if you extend the length tach won't read right.
Just use it as is... the wire type is 22 AWG very common... Does it wrap around the high tension lead? Longer wire try more wraps...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 27, 2012 18:21:35 GMT -6
Well give it some more use and see what happens...make certain you top up the oil on the dipstick so you don't run too low.
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Post by sprocket on Jun 27, 2012 18:15:54 GMT -6
The 50 s should be set at .003 as Alley suggested, the 150 s get the .004 and .005
Two different engines...sort of...
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Post by sprocket on Jun 27, 2012 14:54:56 GMT -6
Is this a Coke Can engine from Ebay? If you bought from a reputable dealer you should be able to exchange it..worth a try...
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