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When you take the air filter housing/tube off the carburetor, which you have to do to change the carb. Inspect the housing throughly because that little burst of speed you got could be an indication the needle started to retract opening the needle jet. The air/fuel ratio has to be within 9/1 to 14/1 for it to run and I still think it's getting air from somewhere. It's frustrating not being there with you.

Do it once it's running, play around with varying the amount of air it gets to see if it has a sweet spot where it'll run.

Try blocking the filter about 1/2 with a piece of carboard from a shoebox over the element.

I'm hoping when you block the air intake it'll start whistling where the leak is.

The difference you reference in your post is that a seal that was poorly made failed.

My guess is there's a leak on the air intake side of the carb if you block the 1 1/2" tube coming off the front of the filter and it still runs it's getting air from another source (a hole) in the filter housing somewhere, most likely where the junction to the carb or the junction to the filter housing (I had that happen to me once) if it's there, you need to check first the junction to the carb. The 2" tube from the carb should entirely cover the junction flat, if not loosen it, push it on further and retighten. It's usually quite stubborn. If it's not there, it's most likey at the place the 2" tube joins the filter housing which may be repaired with a generous dollop of plumbers silicon, or just buy another filter and housing for about $30. If there's a crack in the filter housing use duct tape. The carb lacks the vacuum necessaryto open the needle valve and it's running on the pilot ( idle) jet. I hope this helps, post again if there any more issues