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Post by rks on Aug 26, 2016 6:17:15 GMT -6
Those that use the diesel, are you using this as well in the final drive? Read more: scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/13032/1-70-oil-change#ixzz4IRFgNW6EI always use gear oil in a gear box. But, the manual for my Ural calls for 20w/50 in both engine and transmission. Don't quite understand why you would want an engine oil in something that has no combustion going on. Mine gets 15w/40 up front, and Valvoline 80w/90 in the tranny, and final drive. I do use the Delvac in the 2005 Cub Cadet transmission.....but being a hydrostatic, makes it a different animal. The oil gets changed once a year, and so far, has been trouble free. (as stated before, 1,200 hours on the clock)
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Post by rks on Aug 24, 2016 6:21:32 GMT -6
Opinions on oil are like butts......everyone has one. Not having much info on your scoot, whether you ride year round, what area of the country you call home, etc, etc.....puts us at a disadvantage. Read this thread, (found on this forum), and your owner's manual, and then decide. Oils
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Post by rks on Aug 23, 2016 15:40:20 GMT -6
I not only run diesel oil in my scooter, but also my Ural, both of the BMW's, the 11 year old Cub Cadet with 1200 hours of run time, my 2011 Camaro, my 1966 Pontiac LeMans, and of course the Kioti CK30. Why? Because it is better suited to an engine of the flat tappet design, like our scooters.....and it just plain lubricates high stress areas better.
Some will say "Your air cooled bike runs hotter than liquid cooled vehicle, so it needs a motorcycle oil" I say that's bull poo. I have a VDO Oil Temp gauge installed on my scoot. It doesn't climb any higher than the oil temps on my old Cummins, or Caterpillars used to, when put to work on a long grade. Even my Subaru Forester's oil will reach 220* on a warm day climbing out of the valley.
I've used countless gallons of Rotella, even own a few shares of Royal Dutch Shell, and run their 5w/40 in the Camaro.......But I prefer Mobil Delvac in my other stuff........There is a reason it's called "The million mile oil"
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Post by rks on Aug 22, 2016 15:58:04 GMT -6
Yeap, that is what it cost me to change my 150's oil this weekend. I bought several gallons of oil earlier this year (Mobil Delvac 15w/40), when a $5 per gallon rebate was in effect, making the final cost (including tax) $9.03 per gallon. I can only get my scoot to take 24 ounces after an overnight drain, with both plugs removed. So, it figures out to just under $1.70. You can't beat that with a stick...IMO I also emptied and measured the contents of my crankcase breather's catch can. General do this every other oil change and record. This tells me, that this little engine is a long, long way from being worn out. More info on the catch can link
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Post by rks on Aug 17, 2016 10:14:39 GMT -6
I've never had an experience like that while on my bikes either. Now... back in my working days, when my perch was a bit higher, you wouldn't believe the goings on I saw. There are some crazy, crazy chicks in this world. Kinda miss truckin, and the '97' International.
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Post by rks on Aug 17, 2016 3:26:47 GMT -6
Can you make a chinese scooter reliable?
Nope......I hear they are all junk.
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Post by rks on Aug 13, 2016 18:04:21 GMT -6
If this is a real problem, which it hasn't been for me, you could do what this guy did. Check item number 2..... 3rd and 4th photos in this thread. tips and tricks
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120/70-12
by: rks - Aug 9, 2016 9:24:15 GMT -6
Post by rks on Aug 9, 2016 9:24:15 GMT -6
My scooter came from factory with 120/70-12's....front and rear. I have recently changed both to 110/90-12 Michelin City Grips. If you do the math, you will find the 110/90 is 30mm taller than a 120/70....or in English.... 1.18" taller, and 3.7" further around it's circumference. I don't remember the exact measurement around the 120/70.....seems like it was 46 and a fraction inches, so the 110/90 increases the distance traveled per revolution by something like 7%.
You would need to make sure that you have enough front fender clearance for a tire that will ride a bit more than 1/2" closer to it. Rear one should be fine, as it is on my long case 157QMJ.
I feel the scooter looks better with a higher profile tire....and the load rating is much improved too.....64 compared to 51. This translates to 616 pound max load for the 110/90, and 429 pound max for the 120/70. (numbers from Michelin's chart)
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Post by rks on Aug 8, 2016 10:46:41 GMT -6
Here we go again.......three more fatalities, in three separate accidents, all within a 24 hour period.....in and arouund the tiny city of Rochester. What a shame. The third in 24 hours
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Post by rks on Aug 6, 2016 14:31:03 GMT -6
No loctite where the pipe and head meet......much to hot, it will melt and be a better lubricant than retainer. Get a few lock washers at the local hardware store. Make it a habit to have a 10mm socket with you each time you change the oil. You'll be down there anyway for the drain plug......only takes a few seconds more to make sure the exhaust nuts are snug, if that socket is handy.
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Post by rks on Aug 4, 2016 14:46:16 GMT -6
I lucky that I can get to my intake be removing just the seat bucket, and the exhaust after taking off the skid plate (splash guard) beneath my fuel tank.
1....Make sure your at TDC on the compression stroke 2....Don't over, or under tighten the retaining nuts on the adjusters 3....Make sure your engine ground wire/strap is reattached when you put the cover back on
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Post by rks on Aug 3, 2016 16:16:39 GMT -6
Wow......I don't really know what to say. I'd buy him a small dirt bike, and let him hone his skills somewhere other than on asphalt, driving in traffic. In the blink of an eye, your lives could be destroyed forever. The link below was taken from another forum I belong to......reading it brought tears to my eyes. I don't know who has been dealt the worse hand......the 12 year old son who died, or the father who will never, ever, be able to forgive himself. Things happen quicklyJust saying.....there is no such thing as being to careful.....especially when it comes to our kids lives.
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Ow !!!
by: rks - Jul 31, 2016 17:25:39 GMT -6
Post by rks on Jul 31, 2016 17:25:39 GMT -6
I knew I shouldn't have posted about not receiving one bee sting all of last year. Just one day later (on the 21st) a bee went up my jacket sleeve while riding, and got my forearm twice, before I could get stopped to remove him. Then 2 days ago (Friday) another bounced off of the side of my helmet, and down under my collar, stinging me in the back of my neck.
Does this have something to do with karma.....or are the bees reading these forums in search of their next victims?
I will no longer post on bee sting threads......
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Post by rks on Jul 31, 2016 4:29:38 GMT -6
I can get it running now and again but can't give it any throttle with out it dying. Now it's hot from running for about 5 minuets and won't start. But I did get the manifold leak fixed. How do you go from the above, to your statement below.......and not enlighten us as to the cure??? "It runs good going down the road, good pickup. It might be a jet needs changing. Ahh heck, it runs good, I think I will just leave it alone and ride it." Read more: scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/12959/motor-quit-running#ixzz4FyrK4y9m
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Post by rks on Jul 30, 2016 17:11:20 GMT -6
One other thing about wanting to use hi octane is that most of the gas stations around here have the one hose pumps. With a small scooter you would probably never get the regular out of the hose before your tank is full. Having to fill at home out of a can just plain sucks. Very true. I'm lucky to have a nearby station with separate hoses for each grade. When out of town with one of the bikes needing fuel, I'll check all of the pumps, to see if one's last sale was non ethanol. Have even been known to sit on the sidelines with a cup of coffee, waiting for someone else to come along to fill gas cans, or a classic car with real gas....then, quickly push the bike up behind them, knowing the hose has been flushed of ethanol. I know most can't be farting around like that on the way to work or wherever.....but, being a gezzer, with lots of time, I can.
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