|
Post by rks on Jul 20, 2016 5:27:49 GMT -6
I had one of my heavy weights out for a solo run yesterday morning too. Made a stop at the Tonawanda Reservation, (do ya know where that is Cy?) then back to the house...clocked 115 miles, home an hour before lunch time. Not a long ride by any means, just a nice morning jaunt, on a beautiful day, listening to the hum of that German made mill. The heft and power of a larger bike is food for the soul. Ahh....life is good.
Had the wife out on the other B-mer last Sunday, doing an 83 mile loop around a few of the western finger lakes, then later, took the scooter on a 31 mile sunset ride. Neither of those could be considered rips.... though both were very enjoyable.
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jul 18, 2016 15:57:43 GMT -6
I recently purchased my first smart phone, so I'm still working my way through all of it's features, capabilities, and such. It's a Motorola phone so it's Android based.
I found, and downloaded a free app called GeoTracker, which is simply great. Not only does it map the route you've driven, with total miles traveled, (to the hundredth...32.73) but also your average speed, average speed while moving, lowest and highest elevations, steepest incline and decent angles, and elapsed time. Your speed and elevation is also charted as you ride.
Could be used for a lot of other things.....hiking, bicycles, or just to see how far you walk in a day. I even used it once while mowing the pasture with my tractor and flail mower......that sure created a goofie looking map....hit a top speed of 2.21 mph. If you have an Android phone....check it out.
So what is your favorite app?
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jul 18, 2016 15:10:02 GMT -6
Could have a pretty nice new 250cc scooter for what yours cost plus 1200 bucks. And the 250 won't be stressed on the highway like a 150 would be even with 180cc in a gy6 motor would be. And all you would have to do is get on and ride! jct842 is dead right. If you bought a 150cc, 8 hp scooter, so you could keep up with traffic, you made a big goof. Your money would be wiser spent on a larger, more capable, heavier machine. Not saying modifications are a bad thing, extra lights, a windshield, a couple of gauges, a usb power port, etc, etc., but if you think you can turn your scoot into a 'freeway flyer', you are wrong. Personalize it all you want, but it is, what it is....it's not a dirt bike, it's not a crotch rocket, it's not a cruiser......it's a scooter, and that's ok. Even though I have 3 motorcycles, I'm still quite fond of my 150cc Chinese made, plastic scooter..... took it out for a 31 mile ride last night after supper. It is amazing how well it runs with 10,200 miles clocked, it has never left me stranded, and shows no signs of wearing out. It has been a pleasure to own and ride........but I realize it's a scooter, and treat it as such.
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jul 17, 2016 5:29:56 GMT -6
Well you don't need a hose going to the ACV (air cut valve), if it's not opened up......cuz it won't do any good. So now the "T" should work just fine. Or....use the old 4 way splitter, and place a vacuum cap on one nipple. But, your scooter will probably backfire on deceleration, if plumbed this way.
I can't tell from your photos, but if it is as you say, not an inserted, removable cap/plug, but rather a plastic or silicone material injected into the opening, then the tip a paper clip heated with a match til it glows red, would melt it out. I would hold the carb upside down so nothing ran down into the diapharm area.
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jul 16, 2016 18:23:24 GMT -6
It's been a while, so.....thought I'd update this thread. Haven't really ridden it as much as I'd like.......you know, sometimes life can get rather busy with responsibilities that keep you from doing what you want to. Any way the odometer is up to 1,717 km (1,067 miles), engine is running better as the miles accumulate. Getting more and more used to it, but it sure rides hard with an empty car. A hundred lbs. of sand bags would help the ride, but not the fuel consumption....and I'm a cheap bas......, so no ballast.
What i've done to it: Upjetted carbs to 135/40, from 125/38. Found a few very tiny cracks in the sidewall of the drive tire, about a half an inch from, and following the rims arc. The other two tires had none, but since all had 2005 manufacture dates, I replaced all three. Also replaced tire tubes with IRC heavy duty ones, and added a second rim strip to each wheel. One of the carburetor mounting flanges was assembled wrong at the factory, and leaked air. Replaced both with Mikuni mounting flanges, along with 3/16" phenolic spacers. Replaced the long turn signals with a shorter variety from China, chromed plastic, made for a Suzuki Blvd. ($9) Have changed all fluids 3 times....right after purchasing, at 500 km, and at 1500 km. Checked and adjusted valve clearances when purchased and at 1500 km.
Have been running a bit faster since last oil change. If the roadway is painted with both center and edge lines, I've been doing 45 mph. Engine spinning 3200 at that speed and sounds very happy. But much of my riding is on heavily crowned, unpainted rural roads......and 35 mph is plenty fast. I'm not going to crash any of my bikes, trying to save a minute and a half of drive time, on my way to McDonalds.
So far.....no dents, dings, scratches, or other incidents, and also no breakdowns, or road failures.
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jul 16, 2016 16:05:01 GMT -6
This is the way most 24mm, gy6 carbs are shipped.... 24mm carb......notice enough vacuum hose comes attached to reach the t (splitter), on the left side of carb. Also notice the cap installed over the fuel inlet nipple on the left side. I believe this is what you have on the nipple in question, not one that goes over it, but rather one that goes in it, with a collar on top to keep it from going out of sight. If the carb is removed, and closely inspected, I think you'll see you can get the blade of a pocket knife, maybe even a finger nail, under the lip of the plug, and pop it out.
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jul 16, 2016 3:11:43 GMT -6
This thread is starting to make as many twists and turns as Route 17 does. I'm glad for ya KZ.
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jul 16, 2016 2:47:38 GMT -6
Remove whatever is covering the nipple, (cap, plug, etc) and then place a vacuum hose on it. The vacuum hose originates at the intake manifold and runs to a spliter that leads to 2 or 3 locations. One of these locations, is the valve on the right side of the carb that you are questioning. It prevents back firing during deceleration.
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jul 12, 2016 6:09:12 GMT -6
tonymc said..." it will run a few minutes after starting it with starting fluid then shut down."
Before I tore the top off that engine, I'd make damn sure it isn't just a fuel delivery problem. Tank vent, restricted line, contaminated carb, or fuel, etc, etc. Also check the whole air intake system.
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jul 8, 2016 5:23:06 GMT -6
If it were mine....I'd remove the emissions system, and ride it for a while as is. An air filter and upjetted carb will help, but it doesn't hurt to let your scooter break-in a bit first. A lot of so called upgrades are not necessary, and a waste of money in my opinion. No matter what, or how many modifications you make....your scooter will still be a scooter. Ya can't make a silk purse, out of a sows ear.
My little sow's ear has just over 10,100 miles on it......still running great with factory original CDI, coil, and even the original spark plug. There is no sense in trying to fix something that isn't broken, or try to improve something, that doesn't need improvement.
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jul 3, 2016 14:35:02 GMT -6
I might add...... install your plug using just the socket and your fingers until crush washer makes contact with the head, then use the ratchet handle to snug it down. It is very easy to cross thread these, if you just start them a turn or two, and grab the ratchet.
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jun 30, 2016 2:57:04 GMT -6
Hooray ! ! ! .......success. I googled BMW R80 ST, and found this page..... R80 ST ...... some interesting facts there, not that many of them made, and only about a thousand made it to our shores. Nice bike Cyborg..... take good care of that "sweetie"
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jun 29, 2016 7:39:25 GMT -6
The battery must be grounded to the frame. It doesn't matter how this is accomplished....ground strap/cable straight to the frame, or to the engine first, and then continuing on to the frame. Without this, I can't see how you would have any lights, horn, or other electrics.
Engine must be grounded to the frame......again, it doesn't matter if it goes straight to the frame, or to the battery (-) terminal first, and then on to the frame. Without engine ground, you won't get a spark.
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jun 28, 2016 16:51:16 GMT -6
And still not a single roadside repair, or rescue needed. Amazingly dependable, runs better than new, still has factory original ignition system (right down to the spark plug)
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jun 27, 2016 16:03:47 GMT -6
Come on cy, it's not that hard, even I can post a photo.....This is "Dooley", he's our two up ride of choice I've always been a fan of big jugs out in open air.
|
|