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Post by Zouri on Mar 28, 2012 5:07:27 GMT -6
Sounds like a plan, ill probably try and get one ordered today, hopefully that fixes it ... then its time for a paint!
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Post by Zouri on Mar 27, 2012 18:05:58 GMT -6
Okay, so here are the results of the Starter/Solenoid Testing: Starter Switch Test (Red Probe in Red/Yellow, Black Grounded, Key OFF, Starter Button Pressed) : 0.8 Ohms Green/Yellow Wire, Key ON, Brake Pulled: 0.00 - 0.02 DCV ( ) Solenoid "Click" Test (Starter Wire Off, Key ON, Brake Pulled): No clicking noise. Red Probe in place of Starter Wire, Key ON, Brake Pulled: 0.00 - 0.02 DCV ( ) So, according to this test, I have a bad Solenoid, as well? Or is it a false-positive since I am having other issues in-line?
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Post by Zouri on Mar 27, 2012 5:37:31 GMT -6
Okay, Ill do that testing this evening when I get back from work and let you know. It sounds like so far a bad switch, I guess. I know a lot of the regulars of these forums are shop owners, if you know of some that are good I'd love to support the community back, when we determine all of the issues.
Let you know later. Thanks!
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Post by Zouri on Mar 26, 2012 19:03:00 GMT -6
Okay,doing all the testing, here are my results:
From Ignition Switch Testing Tutorial: Red to Black from the Switch (SWITCH ON): 0.2 ohms Red to Black from the Switch (SWITCH OFF): No change
Green to Black/White from the Switch (SWITCH ON): Nothing reads, same as if I had the two probes in open air Green to Black/White from the Switch (SWITCH OFF: No change
Red to Green (SWITCH ON): Nothing reads, same as if I had the two probes in open air
Black to Green (SWITCH ON): Nothing reads, same as if I had the two probes in open air
Green (Bike Side) to Frame (Sanded shiny section): 0.4 Ohms
I believe that is all of the testing that you had outlined, I didn't get a chance to do the Solenoid/Starter testing tonight, since I have some homework to work on, I will be able to tomorrow if you think it's necessary.
I cant tell you how much I appreciate you two's help, Id be in trouble right now without you!
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Post by Zouri on Mar 26, 2012 4:56:27 GMT -6
I'll test all of those and get back with you tonight, Rich... unfortunately I have to store the scoot at my brother's house until I can get it running, since he has a garage.
And Sprocket, thanks! That is actually a really helpful guide!
Should I be pressing the start button when I check the variations that Rich listed? Or is having the switch set to on enough?
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Post by Zouri on Mar 25, 2012 15:27:31 GMT -6
You have the multimeter set on DIODE.. you need to set it to OHMs Well I also tried it on Ohms and I would still get 000 but never 0L and a beep
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Post by Zouri on Mar 25, 2012 15:14:49 GMT -6
Also, I just noticed something that may be of value... when I jump via the solenoid, my brake light is always on, my horn doesn't work, nor do my turn signals.
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Post by Zouri on Mar 25, 2012 15:10:20 GMT -6
Posting from my phone, so I hope my images come through. So, I am trying to do the ignition switch testing you linked me to Rich, and am having a few issues. First, when I do the test with the switch off, I can't get my multimeter to register 0L, or beep... it just registers 000.... here is a picture of my multimeter with the setting I was using (should be the right one I thought..) Secondly, my wiring seems to differ more than just from the wire colors.... my black, red, and green seem the same, however my killswitch wire (black/white) turns to brown, but it is not in the harness, it goes past it... here is a picture of my harness. So, would the testing be any different? And am I using an incorrect setting on my multimeter to check for a complete circuit? Sorry I suck with electrical stuff! Lol. Thanks.
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Post by Zouri on Mar 25, 2012 11:35:32 GMT -6
Okay, Ill plan on testing that today and getting back to you!
Thanks!
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Post by Zouri on Mar 25, 2012 9:06:07 GMT -6
Bashan, I I won't get a chance to work on it until around 4:00 EST today, however as a pre-diagnosis I can tell you with 95% confidence that the horn, and turn signals do not work, as with any other lights, when I turn the key to on. Also, yes, while I am jumping the solenoid, all of the lights and dash items seem to work. The scooter turned on and stayed on at one point, before I turned it off (via the killswitch).
John, Yes, the bike will run when I jump (in the scenario above), and I think it would kick start, but the kick starter is something else that I am working on right now, having a problem with it travelling back up after I kick, so I can't check that right now. When it's running it seems to be running as completely normal, lights, dash, turn signals, etc seem to function, but I can double check for 100% accuracy later today.
I'll update you two as soon as I can.
Thanks so much for your help so far!
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Post by Zouri on Mar 24, 2012 22:27:20 GMT -6
What would I do to check? I assume i could go from point to point on the line of power to the brake light, going from "checkpoint" to "checkpoint" but how would I check if it is functional? Continuity from negative terminal to that fuse, connector, etc?
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Post by Zouri on Mar 24, 2012 20:58:14 GMT -6
Hey all, My scooter is a 150cc Roketa Sicily, she's been having some electrical issues... When I turn the key, my gas gauge doesn't flip on, and I can't start her up via the key and starter button. Things I know so far: - I have 12.5 DCvolts across my battery terminals
- I have continuity across the fuse in-line with the battery terminals, and the fuse up near the gauge cluster
- I have continuity from the Negative terminal to the frame
- I can jump the scooter with a bar between the two starter terminals (Is this bad for it?)
- I do NOT hear a clicking sound when I push the starter button, no matter what position I have the killswitch in, key in, or brake pulled (i've tried all variations of this)
- I do NOT get brake lights or etc when I pull the brake lever, however when I jump across the starter terminals, I do get gauges, and lights.
- All of the connections seem good, everything is plugged in and snug, I tried looking over all of them to be sure.
- I am on the centerstand, but I don't have a kickstand killswitch anyway. (I don't wanna talk about how I know that. )
Not sure where to go from here... any suggestions? I would love to get her running again before Spring is over! Edit: Added to the "Things I know" list.
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Post by Zouri on Mar 24, 2012 20:47:33 GMT -6
I guess I maybe should post a separate one to avoid hijacking his thread... And thanks! Look for my post then! Lol
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Post by Zouri on Mar 24, 2012 17:43:13 GMT -6
I'm essentially having the same issues as this guy... can jump my starter and get a turn over, have continuity between all fuses, and my negative battery terminal and the frame, don't get lights when igave hit the brakes, and dont hear any clicking when I push the starter button with killswitch on or off, with brakes pulled and not pulled.
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