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The scooters runs and drives! Thanks guys!
Changed the stator, no spark. Took that all apart again, found no errors in my installation. Checked wires for continuity, found all okay. Began tracing other wires. Found the spade terminals for the coil where apparently manufactured from some kind of tin foil/lead alloy and had self-destructed when I slipped the protective boot over the coil. Repaired coil wires, had spark.
The scooter had sat for over a year without use and many had told me to remove and clean carb. Went to remove electric choke and it broke off with very little provocation. Must have been cracked during storage and moving from place to place. Contacted a guy I know who assembles scooters for local dealer who sells them and he had a spare choke. Went and got it and it was too big to fit in the hole. So, I ordered one from partforscooters.com. It was the same size as the other one that didn't fit. So, I carefully sanded down the first one (it was only about 1 mm too big) till it fit in the hole then ever so slightly deepened to groove for the O-ring with a moto-tool and used a very small amount of RTV in reassembly. It works and doesn't leak.
Scoots starts right up, idles nicely, power output seems fine, and everything except the fuel guage seems to work just fine. I put three miles on it going up and down my gravel driveway. (My motorcycle license expired long ago.) My driveway is half-mile long. Being on gravel, 30mph was as fast as I felt comfortable piloting this thing but it seems to work just fine.
Took me 3 weeks, but I got 'er done!
Thanks again and keep up the good work.

D'OH!!!! It cranks just fine WHEN I APPLY THE BRAKE!!
Yes, another benefit of the nanny-state.
Still didn't start. I'll have to check for fuel later.
If the fuel valve is vacuum operated, how does it open when you're cranking and the carb is dry?

Thanks! Yup, I needed a flywheel puller. I live rural and the nearest town is 500 people, so I didn't even bother makin' a trip to Tom's Hardware and I didn't want to wait for a shipment to come in. So, I took my Wonderbar, marked the location of two of the holes for the fan mounting holes in the flywheel using the fan and proceeded to attempt to drill two holes in the Wonderbar---which is spring steel. After discovering I only had one drill bit hard enough to drill through it (and dulling numerous others mercilessly) I was successful. I put the nut back on the end of the crank to protect the threads, then used two 8mm bolts slightly longer than the fan-mounting bolts to tighten the bar up against the end of the crank, effectively pulling the flywheel toward me. Things got very, very tight and the Wonderbar started to bend slightly when the flywheel popped off with a very loud POINK! While this worked, I don't think it's a viable bit of advice for others as one could easily run the bolts into the stator windings, among other things. It also took me 90 minutes of messin' around drillin' holes in something I shouldn't have been drilling holes in.
On the hose routing, oh boy. I need to search the site, but from what you say, Bashan, are you telling me they inject air into the exhaust like cars did in the late 70's with the Air Injection Reactor Pump? I see nothing on the Baron for such a provision. The old head and cylinder have no such ports of fittings. So, If I put a piece of hose on it and vent it, what I will have is another exhaust pipe. So, I'm just gonna plug that.
Thanks again. As soon as I finish this cheap pizza, I'm back on it. Oh, do you have a link to a hose routing schematic? Yes, I was worng this morning, the fuel valve hose goes to intake manifold vacuum. Does the crankcase breather end up at the evaportive emissions canister?

This message has been moved to 50cc to 200cc by Bashan.