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This message has been moved to Memorable Posts by Bashan.

You are 100% correct. Better safe than sorry. I did do a longer test just look above.

I am going with a 6000⁰ Kelvin myself. I like the whiter with the touch of blue to help prevent glare.

I see your point and I will do a longer bench test but let me give you my thought process in deciding on the 15 minutes.

First: I figure that chances you will be riding not sitting still with the light on. When you are riding you get a tremendous amount of cooling flowing across the surface because of the air flow. This is the principle that a radiator works and those work very well. During this test it was on a shelf that was only open on one side. It was not air conditioned. There was NO fan running supplying any circulation of air. I am in Florida and the atmospheric temperature was 89 degrees F.

Second: I felt that 15 minutes should allow maximum saturation based upon the thickness of the plexi being used. If I were putting that same thickness of plexi in my oven to heat it for forming that is a little more than the time I would give it to heat up through out the material.

Third: The housing is ventilated (see the image below)



But I would not be opposed to more vents. You have to be careful with vents in headlamp housings because they can introduce moisture and that will cause blown headlamp bulbs.

Fourth: I am really more concerned with the LED I will be running as daytime running lamps because they are 7 watt with very limited heat sinking.

All the above said I will run a longer bench test just to really set this and check. This will give me a chance to use my time lapse app for my iPhone, cool.

OK We are back for another installment of the HID install.

Well we had finished making the bulb fit into the housing and now I want to test all the electrical and check the beam and any temperature issues, so here we go.

In this image you will see my bench lay out. I only labeled 3 things (if you cant tell the batteries from the meter to the headlight housing you should be paying someone to do this for you) 1) the ballast, 2) voltage stabilizer, and 3) Hi/Low relay.



I am running the light through my meter because even though the lamp is rated at 35 watt (2.4 amps at 12.5 VDC) I know that this is going to pull more than that from experience. So I want to know exactly where we are going to be. I will be comparing this to the factory bulb so I can run my numbers so I can be sure that I will not over load the system as a whole.

At the start I checked my battery voltage and with no load on the little batteries I was using for the test the voltage was 12.2 VDC. So the batteries are under charged. This will cause a higher current draw but I can calculate that out in the end. During the test I checked the voltage and before I shut it down it had dropped to 11.1 VDC. At 11.1 VDC the current draw for a 35 watt bulb should be around 3.2 amps, without the servo for the HI beam engaged.

Below is a 2 minute video with a start up and quick run down. the changing light pattern you will see during the video is not the bulb. Yes the bulb does get brighter over the first minute or so but what you are seeing in the video is the camera trying to adjust for the change in intensity from the bulb. This is a 2 minute video.



The video below is 1 minute 30 seconds and it is after the lamp had been running for about 15 minutes. I know I say 10 minutes in the video but I am wrong. Here is where I tell you about the voltage drop on the batteries and a couple of other things.



OK the following images tell the story about temperatures on parts of the housing and electrical parts.



Sorry the next one is blurry. I try not to use a flash if I am showing a screen.







Next installation of this guide will be taking the test set up outside and looking at the beam at night. The update after that will be changes to the factory headlamp wire harness. Just the harness that is directly hooked up to the headlight housing not the main harness. The main harness will come later.

Until then keep it safe everyone.

First I wish to thank everyone that gave advice on my coil problem I had.

This will be a step by step guide with photos giving very complete instructions as to everything I do (including mistakes) in this process. I am writing this as I do the job. So you may see parts and then a few days may go by before I get more done and up date.

This in going to be more than just a simple plug and play. Doing the HID will be the wiring challenge. You don't want HID lights to get shocks to their voltage systems. So since my E-Charm runs the head light all the time that will be a problem. There is not switch for the headlight. So my plan is to take the 2 light that run on the same wire harness as the headlight and change them into day time running lights. I will get 2 x 7 watt LED 194 style lights and wire them separately. Right now the E-Charm has a switch that will turn on and off the running lights. What I am going to do is wire that switch to turn on and off the new HID light. Then the other lights, as well as the 2 x 7 watt daytime running lights will be wired to always on. The HID is 35 watt (bi xenon).

At the same time I will also be changing all lights over to LED's.The total wattage usage after the change is complete will be less than how it was originally.

I have bought a used headlamp assembly to test the HID for melting, beam pattern, and fitment.

I do not know all the other scooters that use the same light set up as the E-Charm. But the CF Moto V3 and V5 and the Q-Link scooters also use this same light. I am sure there are others.

Any how lets get started;

I have done my research and learned a lot about HID and the supporting electronics they have. First when buying your system make sure the ballast is an AC type. Since we are dealing with a rather low power system AC output ballasts are much more stable voltage wise to the bulb. thus making the bulb and the ballast last much longer. I found mine on eBay for less than $40.00 complete with very good water tight connectors.

Any how here is how it arrived:



Once opened:



All the parts from the package:



Close up on ballast:



Close up of just lamp / bulb:



The following images are all done on the bench with a second Headlight assembly I have.

Lets get a good look at the housing:



Modifications:



Like I said above an H-4 is a very close fit but not perfect. Align the bulb with the large tab up and line that tab with the top notch on the housing. In the above image there are arrows pointing to the biggest problem. Using a marker indicate where the trim points need to be on the bulb. Do NOT trim the housing. This WILL violate the structural integrity of the retaining clip. Mark as shown:



To make the notches in the bulb I just used a good quality side cutter pliers and cut the flange on the bulb just to the first bend, about 1/16 of an inch. Once I cut both sides (4 cuts) I then used a pliers and bent the area between the cuts I just made and bent the flange up toward the rear of the bulb.

Note that the bulb will not sit down into the recess. This will not be an issue in later steps we will seal this.





Once you have all this in line, using the existing locking wire lock the bulb in:





Look at this now from the front:






The next update will be the wiring and bench testing the light.

I am looking at buying a SunL SL250-22. It is a 2008 with less than 2000 miles.
Now I know that this unit needs work. I have been told that the stator and coil are for sure bad and need replaced. This is what the mechanic told me in the shop that it was serviced at and taken to to get fixed. The owner did not have the money to fix it and pay the mechanic. So the owner took it back non working.

Here is what I am concerned about. I have been told that SunL is out of business. Is this true? I have not been able to confirm this. Also I have heard both that SunL are good bikes and that they are crap. I welcome your opinions.