Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 20, 2012 19:16:18 GMT -6
I must count my blessings, the bike was only really down one time, in 14,000
and i know a world of things about them now.
plus i am proud as peacehes i got all those miles, many bikes go down at 6000
gotta look on the bright side ya know!
plus i walk over to tell my friend about valve and he says
the only reson his bike runs is me fixing it, and said i could use it carte blance till i get a new one.
there is a law of karma, i just saw it pay back.
thanks everyone
THIS THREAD IS OVER
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 20, 2012 18:06:30 GMT -6
Best advice I can give you is get a new head with valves and spring installed. Alleyoop thanks .....thats how i saw it I have to ask the forum tho, this spring poping off end on to tapprt is a new one for me, is that common. tho at 14,000 any thing is possible i guess
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 20, 2012 17:53:15 GMT -6
I can't complain, i got 14,000 miles out of it.
2 events-
1. I go to adjust valves and note even at top dead center ,the intake tappet has 1 \6th of a inch play and am amazed in wonder
2 I assume the valve/spring is stuck and push down on the flat round plate that holds the spring in and it ( round plate) pops off and spring comes up to tappet, with tappet threw the middle of plate..
I would really love to know whats going on here as i am amazed first at the TDC leeway on tappet
I have never heard of this, tho xingyues are know for head issues
any one have a guess
and thanks for all the help here
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 19, 2012 17:06:34 GMT -6
Gotta open it up and look, follow the sound when running on stand. AL, if the cluch spring is broke would it get to /5 speed?? Mike yea, if one of the clutch springs broke --how do they break and can that be avoided?? (I assume they are spring release at high RPM)
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 19, 2012 17:03:48 GMT -6
thanks, i feel traction on info here, pardon pun.
I plan to get all the info i can before tackling this again.
I am pretty sure its the clutch, as its a real bell sound
i am getting.
but but,,
is there a way the vari can cut the bike to half speed almost instantly, that is what occurred.
and thanks fellas.
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 19, 2012 13:59:43 GMT -6
is there a easy way to check the variator short of removal, if i can put that behind me i will know its the clutch bell
cause this is a ding ding ding sound.
pads look good, so what goes wrong with a clutch
and thanks
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 19, 2012 13:17:40 GMT -6
This is funny because i just posted the bike is at 14,000 miles and falling apart, and to day a new issue, of something that is broke. I just got the carb cleaned and engine rolling, start down the street with the cvt cover off, and again i m back at half power/speed engine is fine, but i am only getting half speed and a clang clang clang can this be variator or most likely the clutch has dangling shoe cause i don't see how a variator could make that sound. and is there a way to check and thank you for everyones ideas on this
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 17, 2012 22:58:54 GMT -6
I guess. My understanding, which is limited, is that replacing the left case is a big job - will entail new rings (maybe pistons?), etc. IS there a way to replace the case that fairly easily for a non-mechanic (with tools, though). hahahaha take this question to ally he will have a lot to say better then me.
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 17, 2012 22:57:22 GMT -6
you can always modify the cvt cover and use a pull starter like on a chainsaw cool!
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Post by bikedown on Apr 17, 2012 22:56:28 GMT -6
Yeah the CVT cover case is the pivot for the kickstarter Is the case badly damaged? are you leaking oil? Is it cracked? If not just remove the 3 pieces of the kickstarter and carry a second battery so when your battery dies you have a spare to run the starter motor Cost about $40... The case by the way the cases are die cast aluminum.. quite brittle.. I realized later i have almost never used the kick start so i am glad to be rid of it. at 14,000 miles . when this bike gos down again my friend will walk it to his house for 700 bucks and own the classic frame and style this is the big long case, it did not hurt a thing, no oil leaks, and if i don't talk to you again, ride safe brother, and know your always in my best wishes and have a double white russian for me.
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 17, 2012 22:39:12 GMT -6
the bike is about 14,200 miles.
I keep a desk top "day at a glance" on the wall with saved pages to keep track of bike issues, and compute milage at end of each month.
and use GFh as example to chart miles, girlfriend house is 60 miles
GFH PK IS-
GIRL FRIENDS HOUSE AND THE PARK
thats 92 miles
some weeks I have GFH PK 4 times.
I make my self walk to the store and such as to keep weight down, so most all trips are long ones
this xingyue bike was a deal. at 1425.00
Since the rings got thick with boron it has almost completly stopped burning oil or is like new, i was going thru 1/3 a qt between 30 day oil changes, now it is 1 tenth a qt*.
A subject i don't discuss anymore, as it went over too many heads.
and some times mine, but boric is in every car and lawn mower for many blocks around my house.
at 14,200 there is simply nothing wrong with the engine, but the carb was a nightmare, today it started first try, * sounded very good and is runing rich by nature.
besides boric acid in oil for about last 7000 miles, it is stream lined for low running temp , every where ever thing, i even put 2 holes in muffler past header small pipe so as to dump heat befor it got to back muff mounts and heated tire, axle and cvt .........and my muffler has never cracked like blue fronts did.
but this xingyue has a idle issue since 2nd week i had it., the idle goes way up to 3300 all by it self for forty seconds and then comes down again to 2100.
At 14000 miles i know it is gonna fall apart daily now,
4 break switches 1 start switch 1 new plug (yesterday) 1 new belt 8000 miles 3 head lights
I am ready to let go of it.
when engine goes i have a buyer who has offered 700.00 for this frame/style now out of production.
I will buy a last year sym next if i buy another bike, too many homo phobes try to kill folks here on hi peds in redneck land.
"Oh crap floyd, look at that moped with big tires , dam things are getting bigger!!! its a homo invasion lets kill it".
1. * I manually first fed carb bowl with gas all the way back to gravity tank.
2, * I use the extra oil now to do my next change
keep the faith everyone and thanks again so very much.
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 17, 2012 21:45:16 GMT -6
se bowl mystery
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 17, 2012 3:29:56 GMT -6
I was discribing a whole system, do pardon me, i am drunk with gas fumes, i have been cleaning a carb over and over 4 times because i am so smart hahahahahahah
As i saw on my bike, all that oil came off vapor from the head vent line to air box.
I removed it and no more oil in box.
but i have no drain from air box to back gear, some do, mine does not.
as to my english, its very dim witted right now, i have been breathing bad air for 3 days.
carb cleaner, gas, etc.
be a lession to us all.
vent the room!
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Clinician
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Post by bikedown on Apr 16, 2012 23:17:47 GMT -6
exactly, never seen any other kind
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Post by bikedown on Apr 16, 2012 23:06:09 GMT -6
for me never blow greasy hot engine gas back into a device that has heat and dirt as a enimy. make a catch can or tape padded bottle to catch that crap. and block the head vent hole to air box so it does not suck in dust. the head vent breaths air in as well, thats how it blows air out, so have a small bit of a filter, over the device that catches oil and breaths air. none of that makes any sense to me? head vent hole? "never blow greasy hot engine gas back into a device that has heat and dirt as a enimy." Its a drain it dont suck in. I just lost the Air Filter Blow By Hose. Why would I need to block anything off? Im just looking to put a new piece of hose back where original one was in the pic. My question is why was the hose closed off at end? just to collect the oil the drains so it dont get all over the scoot is only thing I could think of why it would be closed to collect the oil? In that case no big deal I would just run a longer hose so if any oil drained it would drain closer to ground instead of getting thrown all over the scooter. The long versionif your head breather EPA (nutso) idea is like most it puts oil into your air box off the head breather, it collects as a vapor all over the inside of your filter air handler and drains down that little tube. SEE THE OIL in that tube, most of it went back down your air intake as a greasy vapor, displacing oxagen and recycling heat. the greasy vapor helps gunk your valves and the heat off the head breather ages your bike. most head vents blow right into the air box, thats were some/most of the oil comes from in that clear tube, the rest gos back down the air intake, hot and greasy. Which is a trash of a idea.... throwing garbage off the head right back down the air intake BY THE BACK FILTER. if your head does not vent to air box, good for you, but most do as a EPA fix. When you remove the hose from the air box that gos up to head breather you will "have to block the hole" it leaves in your air box plastics, or you will suck dirt in, counter productive to removing head breather from air box. THE CLEAR HOSE WAS CLOSED OFF AT THE END AS TO NOT LET IT SUCK ROAD CRAP INTO YOUR AIR INTAKE. you can get replacement hose at home depot for a buck and block end with caulk, if you want to keep the thing. Hope that explaination makes you feel better, i assumed you knew more about this recycleing head trash issue and how bad it is for your bike-- Interestingly, sometimes those head vent hoses drain into the back gear box, sure just what i want,,,,, funky inefficient head breather grease in my back gear box. Where my back tire wears down faster then front for many reasons, one of which is .....it is hotter from engine. head bone connected to the toe bone.
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