Scooter Doc
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Post by rob63 on Oct 25, 2012 5:55:53 GMT -6
I don`t think I`ve ever had a problem with a stator on a Sym, other than when a crank bearing went kaput and the flywheel mashed up the stator. I think the euro has an 11 pole stator, with two sets of wires running from it. One set which is 3 or 4 wires for charging, go to a multi plug and then on to the regulator. The other set is just two wires which provide the spark and go to the cdi. This is only a recollection from the mists of time however. Whenever we`ve had a no spark problem it`s always been either a split HT lead, duff plug or cap, duff coil or knackered cdi. The cdi being the most prominent as the rest seem to give an intermitent spark rather than a complete loss.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by rob63 on Oct 24, 2012 2:43:21 GMT -6
I`ve never tested one, always had one lying around to swap. As you say, ebay is your best bet. We`ve got a sym jet euro sat idle in the workshop, as even the importers/distributors to the UK don`t seem to have a cdi on the shelf, ten day wait while they order one in from abroad.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by rob63 on Oct 23, 2012 16:22:00 GMT -6
i did find behind the battery a siler box about 25 mill square its got for wires going to it two red and two others god knows what it is but wires are not small That`s probably the flasher unit, however the cdi should be nearby. You normally have to remove the battery and battery box (one 10mm bolt), and the cdi is in a rubber bracket or floating around right behind the battery box. They do burn out after a while especially on the euro`s. I think it`s the larger version which looks something like this....
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Scooter Doc
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Post by rob63 on Oct 13, 2012 13:53:26 GMT -6
I don`t know your exact model of scoot but the bolts holding the cover on are normally 6mm diameter. If you`ve still got some bolts left holding the cover on, then remove them one by one and try them in the holes where the bolts are missing. Sometimes there are different lengths, sometimes they are all the same. If you find one that fits measure its length without the head of the bolt, and try your local hardware store (or take one in with you as a pattern). The hose which goes on the front of the cover normally disappears under the floorboard area so double check just to make sure it wasn`t shoved in there when removed.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by rob63 on Oct 3, 2012 15:32:08 GMT -6
Thanks so much! And the exhaust, does that come off and go back on easily? Yes, there will be 2 or 3 bolts holding the exhaust to the engine near the silencer then another 2 nuts where the pipe joins the cylinder. You may find it easier to lean the scoot over on its left side resting it on some cushions, that way you can see the nuts on the pipe better.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by rob63 on Oct 3, 2012 11:47:58 GMT -6
What are the pistons? And also do you knowhow to get to the rear drum break, and or know what the constant wheel squeaking is when it spins? As I said before, the squeaking is probably caused by a dust build up. To get at the rear brakes you`ll need to remove the exhaust then undo the nut in the centre of the rear wheel, the wheel should then pull off, revealing the rear brake shoes. You may need to slacken off the rear brake cable before the wheel comes off as sometimes the wheel binds on the shoes. The pistons are in the front caliper, there may be one or two, they look something like the round items in this pic....
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Scooter Doc
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Post by rob63 on Oct 3, 2012 7:37:47 GMT -6
The brakes probably need a clean and a bit of a rough up, dust accumulates and the friction material can get a sheen on it. Take your pads out and clean any dust out in the caliper with a brush or brake cleaner. Get some grips on the pistons to make sure they move freely. If the pads have enough friction material left on them, then rough the surface and edges up with some sandpaper/emery cloth. Put it all back together but remember to pump the brake lever a few times before you go for a ride. The same applies to the rear brake, give it a clean and rough up.
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Scooter Doc
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Post by rob63 on Oct 2, 2012 15:41:13 GMT -6
Cheers bud
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Post by rob63 on Oct 2, 2012 8:23:58 GMT -6
Put the new bearings on the crank today, all went well, just waiting for a new left crankcase to turn up as the old one was chewed up by the bearing failure. We`re moving to a new workshop so I was putting all the bits into a box, and did come across a large shim, it must`ve been stuck in one of the crankcases and fell out when I moved the bits. The question is does it go in the left or right crankcase ?
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Post by rob63 on Oct 1, 2012 16:10:18 GMT -6
Cheers lads, very helpful. The engine has been a bucket of bits for a couple of months now as we`ve been waiting on a warranty claim. Today we had a parts delivery so looks like I`ll be popping it back together tomorrow. There wasn`t a crank shim when I took it apart so all should be ok, I`ll take extra care when setting the valve timing.
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Post by rob63 on Oct 1, 2012 8:46:08 GMT -6
I`ve got to replace some crank bearings on a gy6 in the next few days, but I`ve noticed on the crank there is a sprocket on each side which have to come off first. Do these simply pull off with a puller ? Also the left one runs the cam chain so it has to be in a specific spot for timing, is there a keyway which holds it in place or is it simply a case of marking both it and the crank, and then re installing in the same spot ? Cheers Rob
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Post by rob63 on Sept 22, 2012 7:46:58 GMT -6
The restrictor funnel looks like this when you have the exhaust off. Sometimes you need to grind the weld off but more often than not you can just stick a screwdriver down the hole and wiggle it from side to side and the weld will break off.
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Post by rob63 on Sept 21, 2012 15:54:56 GMT -6
Not sure what the rules are elsewhere, but in the UK any new 50cc is restricted to 30mph by law, as they are classed as mopeds. Derestriction is very common and doesn`t cause any problems.
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Post by rob63 on Sept 21, 2012 7:53:21 GMT -6
I can`t be sure but I think that the Vino had two forms of derestrictor fitted. One is a funnel shaped piece of metal in the mouth of the exhaust downpipe. The other is the common nylon/plastic washer fitted between the two halves of the variator. You`ll need to remove the exhaust and look into the downpipe, the funnel shape can normally be removed by twisting with a pair of pliers and a screwdriver. The nylon ring is a bit more difficult in that you`ll need to remove the drive belt cover and one half of the variator (held on by a nut). Remove the ring and put it back together, you should notice the speed go up to at least mid 30`s, sometimes 40.
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gas prices
by: rob63 - Sept 19, 2012 10:25:13 GMT -6
Post by rob63 on Sept 19, 2012 10:25:13 GMT -6
Count yourselves lucky, I just did a few sums and a litre over in the uk is now about £1.40 which is equivalent to a US gallon being about $8.59. 60% of that price is tax taken by the government.
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