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Weak spark
by: rob63 - Sept 16, 2012 11:20:45 GMT -6
Post by rob63 on Sept 16, 2012 11:20:45 GMT -6
Hi, what do you mean get the lobe off? Do I need to take the cam sprocket away? My scooter has around 29000 and just recheck the clearance and it is 0.1. All he means is make sure the cam is in the right position when checking the valve gap (which I suspect you`ve done anyway). The rather crude pic below gives an idea, always get the cam so that a part of the red area is near the rocker arm, that way no pressure is on the rocker arm.  free picture hosting |
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Weak spark
by: rob63 - Sept 15, 2012 4:28:25 GMT -6
Post by rob63 on Sept 15, 2012 4:28:25 GMT -6
So in summary, original post was 'scoot not running', the scoot used to run but didn`t like to idle but ran ok at high revs ?
You`ve reset the valve clearances, can you confirm that you`ve removed the plug from the head and rested it against some metal, and cranked the engine to make sure you have a spark ?
If you have a spark then maybe it`s time to look at the carb. Are all the hoses in the correct place and in good condition ie: not split ? If you take the fuel feed pipe off the carb and crank the engine do you get fuel feeding from the pipe ?
If there is fuel feed then is the carb set correctly ? Locate the mixture screw and wind it in counting the number of turns until it stops, this is normally about 2 and a half or thereabouts. If all this is correct then you may need to take the carb off, remove the float bowl, remove the primary and main jets and make sure they are clear.
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Weak spark
by: rob63 - Sept 14, 2012 1:33:26 GMT -6
Post by rob63 on Sept 14, 2012 1:33:26 GMT -6
The gap I set is 0.08 Did I miss something? Set them to 4 thou or 0.10 in metric. |
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Post by rob63 on Sept 8, 2012 9:51:27 GMT -6
The Jet Basix 50 is a 2 stroke, plug should be an NGK BR8HSA or equivalent. Mixture screw should be about 3/4 turn out.
The oil pumps are quite forgiving on these, we run ours set to the maximum feed and the bike runs fine. However problems do occur if the bore gets excessively worn which causes the plug to oil up.
When the bike stops do you remove the plug from the head and crank the engine to make sure it`s not sparking ?
As Alleyoop stated can you post a pic of the duff spark plug, it will give some idea of the cause of the problem.
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Post by rob63 on Aug 25, 2012 13:04:41 GMT -6
there is no reason to drill that hole to next size.that is the wrong way to fix.the correct way is to helicoil the hole with the correct thread size thats already there. go to auto parts store and ask for a helicoil of the correct size bring the plug that came out with you. You`ve never actually fitted a helicoil have you ? As Alleyoop stated, to fit a helicoil you need to drill out the hole and rethread it so that the helicoil has something to screw into. It doesn`t simply drop into the old hole as there will be nothing there to hold it in place. A heli is fine if you want to use the same size thread as original. If there`s enough meat around the hole then drilling, retapping and fitting a larger bolt is a lot simpler. |
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Post by rob63 on Aug 25, 2012 3:29:17 GMT -6
Depending on what size the thread is (M6 ?) You could drill the hole and rethread it to a larger size, then find a suitable bolt and copper washer to fit. Have you got any scoot or engineering shops near you ?
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Post by rob63 on Aug 23, 2012 13:04:56 GMT -6
Oops, I stand corrected good sir  |
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Post by rob63 on Aug 23, 2012 9:48:50 GMT -6
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Post by rob63 on Aug 23, 2012 9:45:00 GMT -6
It`s a Honda clone from the Honda Helix.
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Post by rob63 on Aug 21, 2012 14:18:37 GMT -6
You`ll probably need to remove the seat tub first buddy. If you lift the seat there`s normally four bolts/nuts, remove those and the tub should lift out. You should be able to see how the front panel is held in once the tub is out, maybe tabs or screws. Once the panel is off you should be able to access the valve cover and the carb.
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Post by rob63 on Aug 21, 2012 12:11:21 GMT -6
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Post by rob63 on Aug 21, 2012 11:13:44 GMT -6
Yes that`s the part in red, they get smooth with use so you just need to rough them up with sandpaper to take the smoothness off. You don`t need to take too much off, just rough them up.
Your belt should have numbers on which are the measurements of the belt, take it along to a scooter or car parts store and they should be able to order one for you.
The rollers on your scoot are I think 23x18, if you`ve got a set of digital scales you can weigh them. I think they may be the same as fitted on a Honda Helix. Try and go a few grams heavier as that will bring your engine revs down, which hopefully will mean more top end.
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Post by rob63 on Aug 21, 2012 10:30:26 GMT -6
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Post by rob63 on Aug 20, 2012 12:30:10 GMT -6
Can you get a pic buddy ? Only thing I can think of is the rubber strips which fit on the plastic covers to stop them vibrating against the metal. Parts 5 and 8 in the pic although I think some manufacturers do them as a one piece item.  |
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Post by rob63 on Aug 20, 2012 12:16:04 GMT -6
Hi bud, I haven`t got any personal experience on your model of scoot but will try to help. Depending on how violent your tyre blew out, there might be something amiss with your drive train. It`s probably worth taking off the drive cover to inspect the variator, belt and clutch. If you take all three items off the scoot, examine the rollers in the variator to see if they have tipped or have flats on them. Check the belt for fraying or wear. Check that the clutch moves freely on the shaft, and when you rotate the rear wheel there is no odd noises from the final drive. The top speed is about right, the scoot specs say about 68 to be max. You could experiment with slightly heavier rollers, it might give you a few mph more. Not sure on the lights, it`s probable that you have to remove the plastics to get at any adjustment. Also check the wiring to the bulbs, especially the earth, if the earth is bad then the bulbs can sometimes seem dim. Edit....beaten to it by Alleyoop  |
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